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Max Recruitment training in gym
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strikehard


Feb 5, 2013, 8:28 AM
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Registered: Oct 10, 2012
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Max Recruitment training in gym
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Hi,

I've been following the Rockprodigy for the second cycle now. i've only been climbing for 3 years (at 5.11a now) so i think climbing in the gym is a good training for me (still need to improve technique). So i decided not to give up climbing in the gym but bring the different phases to the gym.

HYP - i will climb projects way above my level (4 weeks)
(when i train HYP i will still spend 1 training a week on the hangingboard is 1 time a week usefull ?)

PE - sending routes on my level (4 weeks)

MAX R ???
i know you can train MAX R by working the campusboard but is their anyway to train MAX R by climbing in the gym ?
Or should i go training on that campus board ?

Thnx a lot !
Grts an Love from Belgium


lena_chita
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Feb 5, 2013, 11:28 AM
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Registered: Jun 27, 2006
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Re: [strikehard] Max Recruitment training in gym [In reply to]
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strikehard wrote:
Hi,

I've been following the Rockprodigy for the second cycle now. i've only been climbing for 3 years (at 5.11a now) so i think climbing in the gym is a good training for me (still need to improve technique). So i decided not to give up climbing in the gym but bring the different phases to the gym.

HYP - i will climb projects way above my level (4 weeks)
(when i train HYP i will still spend 1 training a week on the hangingboard is 1 time a week usefull ?)


Well, you either ARE following rockprodigy plan, or you are doing one hangboard a week between other climbing. And if it is the second, then you aren't actually following rockprodigy's plan, you are just doing one hangboard workout a week with the repeat numbers that you got from reading rockprodigy's article. Tongue

My observation over the past 8 weeks: I decided to do the hangboard training following rockprodigy's general plan. This means that I was planning 3 hangobard workouts a week, and any climbing I was doing was at easy levels, basicly ARC traversing, easy bouldering or easy laps. The 4th day a week also involved some climbing, such as easy boudering or route-setting. I always had at least 48 hours between two hangboard workouts.

A bunch of people at the gym decided that they wanted to do hangboard with me-- but NOT give up their regular climbing ~3 times a week. They decided to do hangboard with me once a week or so.

After 7-8 weeks the difference was clear. By doing hangboarding regularly, I have improved on hangboard quite a bit. More specifically, I was able to hang on the 6 holds that I had chosen for my set with 30lb extra weight, compared to where I started on those holds. In contrast, the people who were doing hangboard once a week, who did not show any significant improvement that I saw, they were still failing to finish the sets with the same weights that they started with, when I started my cycle.


strikehard wrote:
PE - sending routes on my level (4 weeks)

I don't think this will get you POWER endurance, it will be skewed more towards endurance side. When I think of PE, I think bouldering 4x4s, not TR routes.

strikehard wrote:
MAX R ???
i know you can train MAX R by working the campusboard but is their anyway to train MAX R by climbing in the gym ?
Or should i go training on that campus board ?

If you say that you are following rockprodigy's plan, then you should know his thoughts on the matter.

Campusing forces you to focus on one type of move. Just climbing, even if you pick a lot of problems that require dynamic movement, will be diluting the effect. Instead of doing 8-10 campus moves in a row, you will be doing maybe one in 10-20. So I'd say no, you won't be doing very efficient max recruitment training by just climbing.






But the larger question is, how much are you gaining from this periodisation training if you are still relatively new at climbing, are climbing 5.11, and by your own admission still have a lot to gain in climbing technique? Would you be gaining just as much, or maybe even more, if you did something else?

You say it is your second cycle. What grade where you climbing before you started the first cycle? What happened after you did one cycle? How are you keeping track of the effectiveness of your training?

Periodization is "fashionable" right now. A lot of top-level athletes are doing it, and there is a trickle-down effect. If the guys who are climbing 5.14 see measurable gains from following this program, then why not the guys who are climbing 5.13? Why not the 5.12-climbers? why not 5.11-guys? But at some point it becomes kind of ridiculous...


"Better than nothing" seems to be a very popular sentiment. As in, "yeah, sure, I am not doing hangboard 3 times week, so I am not seeing the improvement you are seeing, but still, once a week is better than nothing."


hyhuu


Feb 6, 2013, 5:54 AM
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Registered: Jul 25, 2001
Posts: 492

Re: [strikehard] Max Recruitment training in gym [In reply to]
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strikehard wrote:
Hi,

I've been following the Rockprodigy for the second cycle now. i've only been climbing for 3 years (at 5.11a now) so i think climbing in the gym is a good training for me (still need to improve technique). So i decided not to give up climbing in the gym but bring the different phases to the gym.

HYP - i will climb projects way above my level (4 weeks)
(when i train HYP i will still spend 1 training a week on the hangingboard is 1 time a week usefull ?)

PE - sending routes on my level (4 weeks)

MAX R ???
i know you can train MAX R by working the campusboard but is their anyway to train MAX R by climbing in the gym ?
Or should i go training on that campus board ?

Thnx a lot !
Grts an Love from Belgium

You can try bouldering in the gym instead. You can traing techniques and power there. Hangboard/campus board prob isn't necesary or recommended at your currently climbing level.


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