Forums: Climbing Information: Injury Treatment and Prevention:
Training while taking time off for pulleys
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Injury Treatment and Prevention

Premier Sponsor:

 


saucerer


Feb 11, 2013, 10:20 AM
Post #1 of 4 (1395 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 11, 2013
Posts: 4

Training while taking time off for pulleys
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

So after visiting a doctor, I've finally decided to take some time off to rest my pulleys. Does anyone have a training plan they recommend using while taking a break from climbing? Is weight training admissible? Yoga? Swimming? I started climbing a little less than two years ago, currently climb V6/5.12-, and (just like everyone else) I'd like to keep as much strength as possible for when I come back in a few weeks.

Any recommendations for rehabbing and training would be awesome!


FFSchooley


Mar 6, 2013, 11:47 AM
Post #2 of 4 (1169 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 6, 2012
Posts: 17

Re: [saucerer] Training while taking time off for pulleys [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

I'm in the same boat you are and plan to do the following;

Cardio of couse, loosing a few pounds to improve weight/streingth ratio.

Legs. Do pistol squats, lunges, and other movements that simulate climbing motion and use one leg at a time. Do weighted step ups facing against a wall with your foot positioned as if stepping on an edge.

Hike hills with a pack on.

Work on pushing muscle groups with excercises such as push ups, bench, shoulder press, etc... This is good to do all the time since climbing uses lots of pulling muscle movements.

Work on various climbing skills, especially if you have friends that need to learn about anchor building or self rescue.


Kartessa


Mar 6, 2013, 12:02 PM
Post #3 of 4 (1156 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 17, 2008
Posts: 7356

Re: [saucerer] Training while taking time off for pulleys [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (2 ratings)  
Can't Post

saucerer wrote:
So after visiting a doctor, I've finally decided to take some time off to rest my pulleys. Does anyone have a training plan they recommend using while taking a break from climbing? Is weight training admissible? Yoga? Swimming? I started climbing a little less than two years ago, currently climb V6/5.12-, and (just like everyone else) I'd like to keep as much strength as possible for when I come back in a few weeks.

Any recommendations for rehabbing and training would be awesome!

Post on a climbing forum and pretend you climb like the rest of us


saucerer


Mar 8, 2013, 12:21 PM
Post #4 of 4 (1075 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 11, 2013
Posts: 4

Re: [FFSchooley] Training while taking time off for pulleys [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Thanks, Schooley. I'm actually coming to the end of my break, and I have an easy gym session planned for tomorrow (technique drills on jugs and slopers). I wish that I had heard/thought of the single-leg squats earlier in my break - they sound great.

For posterity, here's my injury and time-off training info:

I partially ruptured my A2 pulleys in my left long and little fingers. During my four weeks off, my main exercise outlet was running. I put down about 75 miles on the fairly hilly terrain where I live, in 3-10 mile bouts. I also swam, which seemed to help increase ROM in my shoulders. I did push-ups, core exercises, and full body static and dynamic stretches regularly. I generally shied away from bar/dumbbell exercises to keep my fingers from being loaded with too much weight. I did occasional yoga and occasional sand bucket rehab. Over the last week, I started doing hangs, a few pull-ups, and some half front-levers (one leg up) with x-taped fingers.

I iced my fingers 1-2x per day for the first week, and then stopped. I bought a paraffin bath and waxed up my hands a few times per week. I don't know how much it helped, but it felt pretty awesome. I didn't take any NSAIDS during the entire period. I took glucosamine/chondroitin/MSM in addition to my regular vitamins. I'm undecided about the supplements, but I figured they couldn't hurt.

My fingers feel pretty good today. Not 100%, but a lot of people say healing won't really "complete" until climbing resumes, so we'll see. I'll try to update this thread to let other people know whether my plan was worth it or bullshit.


Forums : Climbing Information : Injury Treatment and Prevention

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?
$13.46 (10% off)
$11.66 (10% off)



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook