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Hangboard Endurance
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Tinet


Feb 11, 2013, 6:58 PM
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Registered: Aug 1, 2012
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Hangboard Endurance
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I been getting into sport climbing. I have being doing tons of different endurance training but can only make it to the gym twice a week. I have a hangboard and metolius rock rings set up at my house and i Know they are designed to build upper body strength and finger strength. I was wondering can you use these things to build up endurance as well like seeing how long you can hang on to the jugs? Does that incorporate into endurance for climbing?


jolery


Feb 19, 2013, 10:42 AM
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Re: [Tinet] Hangboard Endurance [In reply to]
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Tinet wrote:
I been getting into sport climbing. I have being doing tons of different endurance training but can only make it to the gym twice a week. I have a hangboard and metolius rock rings set up at my house and i Know they are designed to build upper body strength and finger strength. I was wondering can you use these things to build up endurance as well like seeing how long you can hang on to the jugs? Does that incorporate into endurance for climbing?


I can't really testify to the results of this, but one of my climbing buddies showed me his 'enduros', which involve moving constantly from hold to hold on the hangboard, with some of your weight removed with a strap, or placing your foot/feet on a chair. He sets a timer at 2 minutes.


camhead


Feb 19, 2013, 11:51 AM
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Re: [jolery] Hangboard Endurance [In reply to]
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I've had some luck with using a hangboard for endurance. Rather than simply see how long I can hold on, I do "repeaters," in which you basically do different durations of 6 seconds on, 4 seconds rest repetitions back-to-back, with weight added so that you reach total failure after a certain number of reps. Difficult to explain, but search around, particularly on the http://beastmaker.co.uk website, and you'll get plenty of information. Depending on how you do it, and how short your rests are betweent sets, it can help your endurance.


redlude97


Feb 19, 2013, 2:24 PM
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Registered: Aug 27, 2008
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Re: [Tinet] Hangboard Endurance [In reply to]
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Tinet wrote:
I been getting into sport climbing. I have being doing tons of different endurance training but can only make it to the gym twice a week. I have a hangboard and metolius rock rings set up at my house and i Know they are designed to build upper body strength and finger strength. I was wondering can you use these things to build up endurance as well like seeing how long you can hang on to the jugs? Does that incorporate into endurance for climbing?
Hanging on the jugs for as long as you can is actually detrimental for most people because it your shoulders will often fail before your hands do and you will droop and hang which will wreck your shoulders. Repeaters for working endurance. I like Eva's strategy when you don't add weight and just use smaller and smaller edges to get failure at the 7 second mark after x number of sets


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