Forums: Climbing Information: Technique & Training:
schedule
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Technique & Training

Premier Sponsor:

 


sgruther


Feb 12, 2013, 8:02 PM
Post #1 of 13 (2453 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 3, 2011
Posts: 4

schedule
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Hey everyone, I'm in need of some advice and guidance.

Here's my dilemma: I had to move back to my home in Broken Arrow, OK, where there basically isn't any climbing. There's one gym but the wall is only open at night and that is when I work my job. It is also open on Saturday so I can make it up there every Saturday to climb but that is it. I'm wanting to get in good enough shape to where I can hit 5.11's. Is this possible with only one day on the rock (fake rock) a week? Give me your thoughts PLEASE!

In the fall I was finally pushing grades and worked my way into 11's but I messed up some ligaments in my hand (says the Doc) but I think they are fine now. My biggest problem has always been getting pumped right after the crux and not being able to finish a route cleanly. This is just added info about my climbing. Anyways, let me have it!

Thanks!
-Sean


gblauer
Moderator

Feb 13, 2013, 8:20 AM
Post #2 of 13 (2312 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 3, 2002
Posts: 2783

Re: [sgruther] schedule [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

ummm...you ask a lot of questions.

So...are you trying to climb 5.11 outdoors? Sport? Trad? Top rope?

Sounds like you are a beginner and made the classic mistake of overtraining (hence the finger injuries). My suggestion is to purchase a copy of the Self Coached Climber and start improving your basic technique before trying to project climbs that could potentially injure your fingers.


lena_chita
Moderator

Feb 13, 2013, 9:01 AM
Post #3 of 13 (2300 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 27, 2006
Posts: 5471

Re: [sgruther] schedule [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

my 2c.

It is not optimal, and it would be slow, but at your level it is not impossible to improve with climbing just once a week.

For at least 1.5 year after I first started climbing regularly, I went climbing at the gym once a week, for couple hours. I didn't think that my schedule allowed for anything more at the time, though in retrospect, I could have managed more.

I still got better at climbing, though it could be anyone's guess how much faster I would have gotten to 5.11 if I had been climbing 2-3 times a week from the start.

IMO, there is very little you can do outside of climbing, as a beginner, that would make meaningful impact on your climbing.

There are common-sense things, such as, if you are overweight, taking steps to lose weight will improve your climbing, in the long run.

And anything you do for general fitness, while not climbing-specific, is good for you for many other reasons. So by all means, go running, biking, swimming, do cross-fit, yoga, or whatever else strikes your fancy.


sgruther


Feb 13, 2013, 9:05 AM
Post #4 of 13 (2298 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 3, 2011
Posts: 4

Re: [gblauer] schedule [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I'm wanting to lead some 5.11 sport routes.

I had been climbing for a year and was onsighting anything in the 5.10 range, but didn't have the endurance to get through the pump in a 5.11, so I decided to purchase a hanging board and injured myself using that incorrectly...Crazy


Shanna


Feb 13, 2013, 9:25 AM
Post #5 of 13 (2285 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 7, 2012
Posts: 21

Re: [sgruther] schedule [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Do you have 5.11s in mind you would like to redpoint? If you have an idea of the style of your goal, your climbing /training on the one day could be more focused.

Also, if you are onsighting any 5.10 you get on, a 5.11a or 5.11b should easily be within your grasp within a 2-4 attempts. How are you going about redpointing a route?

I once lived in an area with minimal climbing near by and I found a rock wall (fence) in a park and would do a traverses on it.


jt512


Feb 13, 2013, 10:33 AM
Post #6 of 13 (2262 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 11, 2001
Posts: 21887

Re: [sgruther] schedule [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

sgruther wrote:

Here's my dilemma: I had to move back to my home in Broken Arrow, OK, where there basically isn't any climbing.

How far away is the closest real rock climbing?


sgruther


Feb 13, 2013, 2:46 PM
Post #7 of 13 (2189 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 3, 2011
Posts: 4

Re: [jt512] schedule [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

The closest crag is about three hours away in Arkansas to my knowledge. That's where I got into climbing, I was a student up at UA in Fayetteville but I had to take a semester off this spring. I'm going back in the fall but I don't want to have to start all over in the fall, I want to be able to be close to where I was level-wise.


justroberto


Feb 14, 2013, 7:07 PM
Post #8 of 13 (2088 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 21, 2006
Posts: 1876

Re: [sgruther] schedule [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

According to google maps, Chandler Park is 30 minutes from Broken Arrow. Boulder to your heart's content, and get strong.


jt512


Feb 14, 2013, 10:27 PM
Post #9 of 13 (2071 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 11, 2001
Posts: 21887

Re: [sgruther] schedule [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

sgruther wrote:
The closest crag is about three hours away in Arkansas to my knowledge. That's where I got into climbing, I was a student up at UA in Fayetteville but I had to take a semester off this spring. I'm going back in the fall but I don't want to have to start all over in the fall, I want to be able to be close to where I was level-wise.

That's within range to drive to every weekend. If you go out there every weekend when the weather is decent and climb at your gym once a week when the forecast is poor, then that should be enough climbing to at least maintain your present level of performance, if not improve it a little.

Jay


sgruther


Feb 15, 2013, 7:49 AM
Post #10 of 13 (2036 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 3, 2011
Posts: 4

Re: [jt512] schedule [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Awesome, thanks guys. I'm more of a sport climber than anything, so would it be best to go traverse across stuff out there? Also, what if I'm lacking a partner?


justroberto


Feb 15, 2013, 3:27 PM
Post #11 of 13 (1999 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 21, 2006
Posts: 1876

Re: [sgruther] schedule [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

sgruther wrote:
Awesome, thanks guys. I'm more of a sport climber than anything, so would it be best to go traverse across stuff out there? Also, what if I'm lacking a partner?

Pick up one of the myriad training books - Self Coached Climber, Performance Rock Climbing, 9 Out of 10 Climbers..., How To Climb 5.12, etc, and train wherever you can - Arkansas, Chandler, the gym, whatever. If you have trouble finding regular partners, it's not hard to get better on routes through bouldering. Volunteer or get a part-time gig at the gym and maybe they'll let you use it during off hours.


camhead


Feb 18, 2013, 4:04 AM
Post #12 of 13 (1864 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 9, 2001
Posts: 20658

Re: [justroberto] schedule [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

If you are 30 minutes from Chandler Park, be psyched! Some of the longest bouldering traverses in the United States. Not five star, but you're way better off than being in FL or Louisiana.

Beyond that, yeah, everyone says get the "Self Coached Climber," but a lot of that book assumes you have access to a good gym; I'm not sure what quality the gym you are going to is, but if it is open once a week, it is probably not the best.

So, take a few day trips to Chandler Park, go to the gym when you can, train a LOT of core, cardio, antagonist muscles at home, and find someone to carpool with to AR.


crackmeup


Feb 18, 2013, 5:33 PM
Post #13 of 13 (1800 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 23, 2006
Posts: 146

Re: [sgruther] schedule [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

sgruther wrote:
Awesome, thanks guys. I'm more of a sport climber than anything, so would it be best to go traverse across stuff out there? Also, what if I'm lacking a partner?

This traverse looks nice:

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/105929240

If I were you I'd go there and get that traverse completely wired, back and forth. I'd pick up a crashpad and do some bouldering while there too. I'd emphasize two things:

1) Not getting hurt. If you're by yourself, be very careful about how high you climb, and very aware of how / when you can fall. Learn how to place your pad/s, and how to fall / jump off safely. Ideally, find a bouldering partner.

2) Technique. Once you've figured out a traverse, try to do it more efficiently. Improve your footwork. Try different ways to do the same moves, and see if they feel better.

If you can manage 30 to 60 minutes of focused traversing once or twice during the week plus a good day at the gym on the weekend, you'll improve.


Forums : Climbing Information : Technique & Training

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?
$11.66 (10% off)
$120.02 (10% off)
$3.56 (10% off)
$156.56 (10% off)



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook