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Jtodd
Oct 28, 2012, 7:45 PM
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Hey guys. Totally new to the sport. I went bouldering with a friend the other day and had a blast so looking to invest in some equipment. First on my list is some shoes. I went to a store that sold climbing gear and purchased some Evole Talons. I wear a 10 normally but purchased these in a 13 and they still are not comfortable. I believe I am going to return them... could you guys sugest some good beginner/intermediate shoes that will be more comfortable for long days of climbing? Thanks in advance!
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theextremist04
Oct 28, 2012, 8:44 PM
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The Talon is probably more aggressive than what you need...try looking at something more basic like the Defy (from Evolv) or another like the Tarantula or the Nago from La Sportiva.
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gypsy-infantry
Oct 28, 2012, 9:08 PM
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I started on and still gym climb in a set of nagos and I adore them. I highly recommend them.
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Jtodd
Oct 28, 2012, 9:14 PM
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Thanks for the advice! I will check out the Nago. Do they fit pretty true to size or should i size up or down?
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gypsy-infantry
Oct 28, 2012, 10:59 PM
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I wear a 10 and went down to 9 1/2 and was good with it could wear it all day.
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bearbreeder
Oct 28, 2012, 11:34 PM
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Whatever fits best ... Its that simple 
Try on as many as you can
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Jtodd
Oct 29, 2012, 4:07 PM
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Agreed. It should be that simple but unforchantly there are not many climbing shops around here so I will have to order a few and return the ones that don't fit. I normally where a size 10 in running shoes. How do climbing shoes compair on average? Would I be good ordering 10, 10.5 and 11?
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Wade308
Oct 29, 2012, 4:39 PM
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They are all over the place size wise, sometimes even within the same manufacturer.
You don't have an REI or anything close you can try some on at? I ordered a couple pairs online at first and it was a real drag trying to get a good fit.
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Fred20
Oct 29, 2012, 8:00 PM
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it's about proper fit, but until you actually climb for a while you won't know how they should "feel", especially since most shoes will be tight and eventually stretch. Get a decent cheap pair and just plan on upgrading from there.
I wear a 9.5-10 running shoe, got a pair of 9's defy's synthetic supposedly weren't supposed to stretch much, but they did.
I wouldn't go insanely small or aggressive, especially if you are doing long days.
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Lethe64
Oct 29, 2012, 8:21 PM
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Hey guys,
I'm also a rock climbing noob and I've got the same problem. I'd also like to get some beginners/intermediate shoes. I've read some reviews and I'm currently trying to decide between the La Sportiva Nago, the La Sportiva Tarantulace or the Mad-Rock Flash 2.0.
P.S.
I'm also trying to find some shoes for my gf but I'm highly inclined to purchase the La Sportiva Nago for her.
What do you guys suggest? Have you tried any of the one's I've mentioned?
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gosharks
Oct 29, 2012, 9:55 PM
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Lethe64 wrote: Hey guys, I'm also a rock climbing noob and I've got the same problem. I'd also like to get some beginners/intermediate shoes. I've read some reviews and I'm currently trying to decide between the La Sportiva Nago, the La Sportiva Tarantulace or the Mad-Rock Flash 2.0. P.S. I'm also trying to find some shoes for my gf but I'm highly inclined to purchase the La Sportiva Nago for her. What do you guys suggest? Have you tried any of the one's I've mentioned?
All those shoes will be more than capable of performing to and beyond your level.
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Daggers
Oct 29, 2012, 10:18 PM
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The mad rock flash 2.0's is a good pair of shoes especially for a beginner and they're cheap too! I highly recommend them as your first shoe
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bearbreeder
Oct 30, 2012, 12:23 AM
Post #13 of 25
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Lethe64 wrote: Hey guys, I'm also a rock climbing noob and I've got the same problem. I'd also like to get some beginners/intermediate shoes. I've read some reviews and I'm currently trying to decide between the La Sportiva Nago, the La Sportiva Tarantulace or the Mad-Rock Flash 2.0. P.S. I'm also trying to find some shoes for my gf but I'm highly inclined to purchase the La Sportiva Nago for her. What do you guys suggest? Have you tried any of the one's I've mentioned?
ignore all the reviews .. find what fits and is decently priced ...
your feet will tell you what works ...
and even then the process of finding a good shoe that works and fits can still take many tries ...
once you find something that works PRAY they dont discontinue it 
what other people wear is irrelevant ... its what fits you that matters
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Lethe64
Oct 30, 2012, 4:24 AM
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Thanks for your reply guys!
Although I agree with what you guys are saying, about finding the right shoe that just fits, I sadly live in Miami FL. There is only one place that I know of that sell rock climbing shoes. The only brand they sell is the evolv. :( I've tried their size 9 and it kills my morton's toe. (Thankfully it's not super big) but it's still rather painful to wear them.
I guess I'll have to order the Flash 2.0 and hope that they fit, if not it's back to waiting and returning them.
What do you guys recommend for a morton's toe? Is there a specific sort of "toe box" that I should get?
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marc801
Oct 30, 2012, 3:22 PM
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Lethe64 wrote: What do you guys recommend for a morton's toe? Is there a specific sort of "toe box" that I should get?
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Wade308
Oct 30, 2012, 3:41 PM
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I had the same problem with my Morton's toe and the Evolvs. They also seem just crazy tight all around, but I have wide feet as well.
I found a used pair of La Sportivas (I have no idea what model, but of the less aggressive variety) at the local outdoors store and they fit like a glove and are true to size (for me).
HTH.
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brooklynclimber
Oct 30, 2012, 10:01 PM
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I started out in a pair of 5.10 Rogues, then when I found out they were a bit too loose (shoes should be pretty snug), and after a few months of climbing, I moved on to a pair of Scarpa Boostics. They are a bit more aggressive than I probably need, and haven't climbed in them too much.
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Fred20
Oct 31, 2012, 3:18 PM
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I live in Tampa, so i feel your pain. Though isn't there a nice gym in Melbourne?
May be worth the trip. I know there is a large store near Aiguille in Orlando.
In the end, get something cheap semi-tight cause it will probably stretch and be too loose, by the time that happens (6-8 months) if you climb 2-3 times a week you should be able to try something else/more aggressive.
I really is a waste to get aggressive shoes since they really won't make a w/ your experience.
I had a pair of evolv defy's that are fine, they stretched and are big and i use them to warm up, I got a pair of 5.10's moccasyms and the difference is night and day between the quality of rubber
Just as if you were going to buy a motorcycle, i wouldnt recommend buying a Ducati as your first bike, spend 40-60 bux on a pair of cheap shoes, worry about getting a better pair when your climbing technique has improved...by then you should know enough people where ever you climb they can recommend something and you will have a better idea of what kind of shoe you will be looking for
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Lethe64
Dec 7, 2012, 2:36 AM
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Hey guys! Thanks for all the advice!
So I looked around and sadly, since I wasn't going to Orlando anytime soon, I had to buy my shoes online. Got them from Amazon and got myself a pair of 5.10 Anasazi Moccasys. Just got them yesterday and I haven't been able to put them on until today.
I read somewhere that you should be able to wear them for about an hour and then see how your feet feel. So far yes, they are tight, but they aren't painful.
Anyway, we'll see how it goes. Thanks again guys!
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AkAxeMan
Dec 7, 2012, 5:03 AM
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I am also new to the sport but I found that a decent starter shoe for me is the five ten coyote. They are lace up with leather uppers. I have rather wide feet so I have had to fight with shoes my entire life to get some that fit properly. They aresnug shoes but not uncomfortable for me. One to keep in mind when purchasing shoes is that different manufacturers use different shaped foot mmodels to size their shoes around so overall fit will change from manufacturer to manufacturer even if you order the same size shoes.
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koolmoedee
Jan 6, 2013, 7:45 AM
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Brands don't matter as much as fit. Try as many different shoes as you can and buy what feels best.
However, here are some important points to keep in mind:
1) It's important to try them on a wall, not just walking around. You want climbing shoes, not bedroom slippers.
When you're on the wall, the shoes should be tight enough to give you support as you stand on your toes on very small holds. Imagine someone taping your foot as you would tape an ankle for support. If it's too loose, your foot will flex too much for you to stand properly on your toes.
You want it to fit like a very firm handshake. Any gaps inside the shoe or hot spots of pressure means it's a poor fit.
Most beginners buy their shoes too big!!! Don't make this mistake.
2) Beginners a) typically have weaker feet; b) climb less steep walls that put more weight on their feet; c) have poor footwork.
This means you should look for a shoe that's stiffer and more ruggedly built for durability.
For this reason, I would advise against the Evolv Defy/Elektra and 5.10 Mocassym, as they are quite soft. That is, unless you're mostly bouldering, in which case they are fine.
Recommended:
Five Ten Spires, La Sportiva Tarantulas and Nagos, Evolv Royales, and Mad Rock Flash are all worth considering. The Spires and Royales are pretty good outdoors as well on granite cracks and slabs.
If you're looking for all-rounders with better bouldering/sport climbing performance, and don't mind paying a bit more, consider:
La Sportiva Katanas
5.10 Anasazi VCS
Evolv Pontas
For outdoor/granite performance, the La Sportiva Mythos are fantastic, comfortable, and versatile.
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JupitersCock
Jan 13, 2013, 4:41 AM
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My first shoes was the 5.10 Galileo's and they worked out pretty well for me. little pricey and probably more of a shoe than you need for starting out, but they are pretty nice (at least for what i use them for).
you can find reviews on them here http://www.rockclimbing.com/...mbing_Shoe_2927.html
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madkiki
Feb 6, 2013, 6:18 PM
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koolmoedee wrote: Brands don't matter as much as fit. Try as many different shoes as you can and buy what feels best. However, here are some important points to keep in mind: 1) It's important to try them on a wall, not just walking around. You want climbing shoes, not bedroom slippers. When you're on the wall, the shoes should be tight enough to give you support as you stand on your toes on very small holds. Imagine someone taping your foot as you would tape an ankle for support. If it's too loose, your foot will flex too much for you to stand properly on your toes. You want it to fit like a very firm handshake. Any gaps inside the shoe or hot spots of pressure means it's a poor fit. Most beginners buy their shoes too big!!! Don't make this mistake. 2) Beginners a) typically have weaker feet; b) climb less steep walls that put more weight on their feet; c) have poor footwork. This means you should look for a shoe that's stiffer and more ruggedly built for durability. For this reason, I would advise against the Evolv Defy/Elektra and 5.10 Mocassym, as they are quite soft. That is, unless you're mostly bouldering, in which case they are fine. Recommended: Five Ten Spires, La Sportiva Tarantulas and Nagos, Evolv Royales, and Mad Rock Flash are all worth considering. The Spires and Royales are pretty good outdoors as well on granite cracks and slabs. If you're looking for all-rounders with better bouldering/sport climbing performance, and don't mind paying a bit more, consider: La Sportiva Katanas 5.10 Anasazi VCS Evolv Pontas For outdoor/granite performance, the La Sportiva Mythos are fantastic, comfortable, and versatile.
I don't use the word "Tight Fit," I use the word "Snug fit." Avoid baggy or loose fitting shoes.
Also, at my local REI store the climbing shoes are in an area away from where they display the hiking shoes/boots. There is a cute little fake rock in the hiking shoe/boot area that they allow me to test out the climbing shoes, and this gives me a better idea of what I need. One brand felt a lot more comfortable than the other, but it was too baggy/loose than the other shoe. So, I ended up buying the less comfortable shoe because it had a more snug fit than the more comfortable shoe giving me more foot placement control on smaller rocks. The bad news about this situation was that I only had two choices of shoes because that is all REI had in stock of that store at that particular time. I was in a hurry to get shoes for my climbing trip.
I work in a climbing gym and one thing I have learned about climbing shoes is that it is not easy to find the right fit. Always a gamble!
The nearest store with the biggest selection of shoes stocked inventory is a 4 hour drive. Blah, I don't want to drive that far. 
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BillyCrook
Feb 15, 2013, 4:23 PM
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My first shoes were the free ones at the gym. I believe Boreal was the name. They looked like crap, but they actually worked quite well.
You should use loaner/rental shoes to get a good idea of your ideal climbing shoe size. If you wear the rentals with socks, consider one (UK) size smaller without. They should fit tight enough that they cannot slip around your feet/ your feet cannot slide or twist around inside them.
When I set out to pick a climbing shoe to buy my own, I checked the local shops, but none of them had much selection. Only one store in town had a wall to try them on, and they had the smallest selection.
Then I remembered Zappos. They sell climbing shoes believe it or not, and they have the same 1-year cash-back return policy and free shipping as any other item there. If there's no visible wear or damage, they provide a prepaid return label so you can return it up to a year later. If you get them dirty outdoors, they're yours to keep, but indoors was clean enough that they still looked brand new.
So I picked out a dozen shoes I thought looked good, and ordered them all. With vip.Zappos.com, they shipped to me next-day, for free. Some were an immediate NO when I tried them on at home. The ones that weren't, I tried them on at the gym and did a familiar route to compare them all. The ones that felt well on the wall, I gave a few hours on my feet while sitting down, doing other stuff. This way I could tell if they'd hurt over time without putting wear on the shoes, and it kickstarts the breakin process. Test once more at the gym with the one or two that made the cut this far to be sure you like them.
I ended up getting the Evolve Royale's. The biggest downside to the Royale's is you get smurf-feet from the dye when they're new. I've bought a second pair of Royale's though, and happily wear them to the gym, and outdoors. I had the first pair resoled at Rubber Room, but it changed the fit a lot, so I'll need to break them in again.
Evolve Royale's are a very relaxed shoe. I'm pretty heavy and though they do have a good amount of rubber on the heel, They only last a dozen or so heel hooks if you are climbing horizontally on a ceiling before they want to slip off the heel. They've got a more flexible sole than a lot of climbing shoes, which is not necessarily a good thing, but it's not too soft. Upside is that I can usually wear them for hours without pain. I can't take the more 'aggressive', downturned shoes that long.
I'm coming up on needing another pair now, and I'm still not decided on whether it's going to be another Royale, or something stiffer.
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fskie
Feb 21, 2013, 12:09 AM
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The Evolv Defy are great shoes for beginners. My only complaints are two: 1) the smell can kill an elephant (after some hard sessions), and 2) the toe breaks in too much; I want some stiffness in the upward bend of the toe.
My next shoe will probably be the La Sportiva Tarantulas, and I will probably get velcro because it is just so much better than laces. Easier to get on/off, quicker, and the laces get in the way of me climbing.
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