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curt
Feb 18, 2013, 2:48 AM
Post #51 of 59
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bearbreeder wrote: im a shitty ass lazy climber whos effing weak right now ... you can call me weak, but you better climb harder than me
OK. You're weak.
And, Sentry Box was nowhere near being the first 5.12 in North America.
Curt
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bearbreeder
Feb 18, 2013, 2:51 AM
Post #52 of 59
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curt wrote: OK. You're weak. And, Sentry Box was nowhere near being the first 5.12 in North America. Curt
talk to gripped .. 
In that year of 1975 Eric Weinstein free-climbed Sentry Box at Squamish, establishing the first 5.12 in North America, ground-up. He was armed with only the stiff-wire nuts and simple hexes of the day, a swami belt around his waist, no chalk bag, no cams, and 1960s-era rock shoes that were of less use than today’s approach shoes. Weinstein pushed his head out on his first 5.12 lead into a new level of difficulty for everyone. Anyone today can try Sentry Box with the same gear, onsight as a first 5.12, but it would take formidable talent to have much chance of success.
http://gripped.com/...s/the-climbing-life/
(This post was edited by bearbreeder on Feb 18, 2013, 2:52 AM)
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curt
Feb 18, 2013, 3:07 AM
Post #53 of 59
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bearbreeder wrote: curt wrote: OK. You're weak. And, Sentry Box was nowhere near being the first 5.12 in North America. Curt talk to gripped .. In that year of 1975 Eric Weinstein free-climbed Sentry Box at Squamish, establishing the first 5.12 in North America, ground-up. He was armed with only the stiff-wire nuts and simple hexes of the day, a swami belt around his waist, no chalk bag, no cams, and 1960s-era rock shoes that were of less use than today’s approach shoes. Weinstein pushed his head out on his first 5.12 lead into a new level of difficulty for everyone. Anyone today can try Sentry Box with the same gear, onsight as a first 5.12, but it would take formidable talent to have much chance of success.
http://gripped.com/...s/the-climbing-life/
1969 - First ascent of Left Side of Doug's Roof (5.12, Gunks) by John Gill.
1972 - First ascent of Paisano Overhang (5.12c, Suicide Rock) by John Long.
1972 - First ascent of Recidivist (5.12, Crow Hill) by Henry Barber.
1973 - First ascent of Have or Have Not (5.12, Gunks) by John Stannard.
1973 - First ascent of Kansas City (5.12, Gunks) by John Bragg.
1974 - First ascent of Kama Sutra (5.12, Gunks) by John Stannard.
1974 - First ascent of Supercrack (5.12, Gunks) by Steve Wunsch.
Source: A History of Free Climbing in America, by Pat Ament, 2002, ISBN 0-89997-320-5
Curt
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bearbreeder
Feb 18, 2013, 3:11 AM
Post #54 of 59
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you really should talk to gripped ... i put the quotation marks in there for a reason ...
were all the previous ascents you listed ground up?
http://gripped.com/contact/gripped/
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curt
Feb 18, 2013, 3:16 AM
Post #55 of 59
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bearbreeder wrote: you really should talk to gripped ... i put the quotation marks in there for a reason ... were all the previous ascents you listed ground up? http://gripped.com/contact/gripped/
I don't know if Largo employed any shenanigans on Paisano, but all of the other routes I listed were done strictly ground up. Gripped should have done their homework.
Curt
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bearbreeder
Feb 18, 2013, 3:19 AM
Post #56 of 59
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send em an email ... or post on their fbook ...
cant have damn canuckleheads thinking they have the "first 5.12"
either way ... its a fun squamish classic thats probably a bit soft if i can get my lazy azz up it ...
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rgold
Feb 18, 2013, 3:42 AM
Post #57 of 59
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Some things not on Curt's list. This is, of course, US-centric. Climbers in the Elbsansteingebirge were light years ahead of us...
1961 John Gill solos the Thimble, Needles, SD ( 5.12a/b) (A 30' climb, but still...)
1967 Greg Lowe does Macabre Roof Ogden, Utah (5.12c)
1975 Steve Wunsch does Psycho Roof Eldorado , CO (5.12d)
1975 Joseph Healy does City Limits, Giant City IL (5.12c)
1975 Henry Barber does Fish Crack, Yosemite, CA (5.12b)
1975 Kauk and Bachar do Hotline, Yosemite, CA (5.12a)
All ground-up, of course. The only way anything got done in those days.
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curt
Feb 18, 2013, 5:29 AM
Post #58 of 59
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curt wrote: bearbreeder wrote: curt wrote: OK. You're weak. And, Sentry Box was nowhere near being the first 5.12 in North America. Curt talk to gripped .. In that year of 1975 Eric Weinstein free-climbed Sentry Box at Squamish, establishing the first 5.12 in North America, ground-up. He was armed with only the stiff-wire nuts and simple hexes of the day, a swami belt around his waist, no chalk bag, no cams, and 1960s-era rock shoes that were of less use than today’s approach shoes. Weinstein pushed his head out on his first 5.12 lead into a new level of difficulty for everyone. Anyone today can try Sentry Box with the same gear, onsight as a first 5.12, but it would take formidable talent to have much chance of success.
http://gripped.com/...s/the-climbing-life/1969 - First ascent of Left Side of Doug's Roof (5.12, Gunks) by John Gill. 1972 - First ascent of Paisano Overhang (5.12c, Suicide Rock) by John Long. 1972 - First ascent of Recidivist (5.12, Crow Hill) by Henry Barber. 1973 - First ascent of Have or Have Not (5.12, Gunks) by John Stannard. 1973 - First ascent of Kansas City (5.12, Gunks) by John Bragg. 1974 - First ascent of Kama Sutra (5.12, Gunks) by John Stannard. 1974 - First ascent of Supercrack (5.12, Gunks) by Steve Wunsch. Source: A History of Free Climbing in America, by Pat Ament, 2002, ISBN 0-89997-320-5 Curt
Wow, one rating so far and it's one star. When did facts become so unpopular? I guess he must be a Republican.
Curt
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bearbreeder
Feb 18, 2013, 6:03 AM
Post #59 of 59
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its RC ... there is neither rhyme nor reason
c'est le intrawebs ...
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