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How fast do benefits from endurance training fade?
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Onlyoriginal


Feb 18, 2013, 1:28 AM
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How fast do benefits from endurance training fade?
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I've been training endurance on overhanging sport routes recently and am wondering how often should I train this but MOST IMPORTANTLY, how long can I not train before my resistance to "pump" or endurance starts to decline? hope this makes sense

Reply with questions on specificity if needed.


camhead


Feb 18, 2013, 3:57 AM
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Re: [Onlyoriginal] How fast do benefits from endurance training fade? [In reply to]
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You lose endurance almost as quickly as you gain it. Strength tends to stay the longest, power slightly shorter, but not as short as endurance.

I've personally noticed losses in endurance in as little as a week of no training. For a lot of routes (depending on your goals and how often you can get out), the best way to get endurance is just by way of projecting that specific route.


Onlyoriginal


Feb 18, 2013, 1:55 PM
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Re: [camhead] How fast do benefits from endurance training fade? [In reply to]
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So you could say that, endurance gains in resistance would be lost after a week of not training it, but strength gains can last longer without training?
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camhead


Feb 18, 2013, 2:24 PM
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Re: [Onlyoriginal] How fast do benefits from endurance training fade? [In reply to]
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So you could say that, endurance gains in resistance would be lost after a week of not training it, but strength gains can last longer without training?

Yes. As long as you have made those gains by training in the first place.


Onlyoriginal


Feb 18, 2013, 9:33 PM
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Re: [camhead] How fast do benefits from endurance training fade? [In reply to]
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thanks a ton camhead!

also where did you find this information?


camhead


Feb 19, 2013, 5:56 AM
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Re: [Onlyoriginal] How fast do benefits from endurance training fade? [In reply to]
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Ok, you asked for it...

For books, start with "The Self Coached Climber," which everyone on this site will tell you about.

Blogs and websites:
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...ockprodigy__258.html

http://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com/

http://www.powercompanyclimbing.com/

http://lazyhclimbingclub.wordpress.com/


redlude97


Feb 19, 2013, 8:32 AM
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Re: [camhead] How fast do benefits from endurance training fade? [In reply to]
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While Camhead is on the money that endurance gains start to diminish quickly, the goal of endurance training is the bring your overall level up high enough that the drop off will still be higher than your previous baseline as you switch to another focus during a periodized training schedule. There is an endurance aspect in strength and power training as well so not all is lost if you stop specifically training endurance. SCC and some of those other sites explain in more detail


camhead


Feb 19, 2013, 8:43 AM
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Re: [redlude97] How fast do benefits from endurance training fade? [In reply to]
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redlude97 wrote:
There is an endurance aspect in strength and power training as well so not all is lost if you stop specifically training endurance. SCC and some of those other sites explain in more detail

Most definitely, good point; when I hangboard, it is strength training, but more endurance with repeaters, rather than just pure max strength.


StuMsg


Feb 20, 2013, 8:34 AM
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Re: [Onlyoriginal] How fast do benefits from endurance training fade? [In reply to]
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I did some endurance training (10 to 15 routes on an 11m wall per hour, 3 hours session per week for 3 weeks) about a year ago and that improved my endurance drastically. Took a few months before I noticed my endurance dropping again. 6 months of 'normal' climbing before I was back to the usual endurance. Everyone is different tho and I'm sure there are a million and one things to take into account.


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