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Climbing areas in Vermont? Fair Haven/Dorset/Dover
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Tfinney110


Feb 21, 2013, 8:19 AM
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Registered: May 30, 2012
Posts: 31

Climbing areas in Vermont? Fair Haven/Dorset/Dover
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Hi All,

The past year I acquired a job as a MICROS service tech which requires me to drive quite a bit. We cover eastern NY, western MA, and all of VT. So, because driving is so damn boring, I like to try and look for possible things to climb locally other than Great Barrington and Deer Leap. Lately, I have been having to make multiple trips a week to Burlington for work. When I'm there I've been climbing at Petra Cliffs until it gets warmer - which brings me to the reason of this post:

On the way up to Burlington after you leave Fair Haven heading north on RT22A and hit the long straights and look RIGHT off 22A there is a long "cliff" a few hundred feet off the road (almost the eastern side of Bomoseen State Park). I was wondering if this is anything worth climbing? If so what is there to climb there? Is there anywhere to check this out online? I have come up short and I haven't had time to drive out there when not at work to check it out.

In Dorset off of Dorset Hill Rd there is a decent sized boulder. It can be seen when you are on RT7. Has anyone checked this out?

Also, as you are heading north on RT7 after "East Dorset", there is a face off to the right up in the mountains. The rest of the rock in the area is pretty crumbly shit so I was just curious if that was anything worth checking out either? I live in Hoosick Falls, NY so i plan on driving around the next weekend I'm not on call to check out some local places (those inquiring included), but any prior info would greatly help.

Thanks

TF


dagibbs


Feb 21, 2013, 2:26 PM
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Registered: Sep 30, 2007
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Re: [Tfinney110] Climbing areas in Vermont? Fair Haven/Dorset/Dover [In reply to]
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There is a new (published in 2012) guide to climbing in Vermont called, Tough Schist. It can be ordered from http://www.vermontrock.com/.

I haven't climbed anything down there yet (I'm from up in Ontario, Canada), but have been looking at it.

Dorset area, though, is farther south than what it covers. And, of course, there is going to be other rock out there than what the guide covers -- but how much of it is nothing but a mossy choss heap (the usual case in Vermont, as I understand it) is a big question.

Depending on where you are based, it might be well worth your while considering hopping a little farther west into up-state New York, and climbing in the Adirondacks. Huge amounts of good to excellent climbing there.


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