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sltnv
Mar 6, 2013, 4:46 PM
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Registered: May 28, 2010
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Heading to Tirol area (most likely) in late May. Interested in moderate multi-pitch routes but cannot seem to locate a concise source of information. Have seen a few bulky German-language guidebooks, but was hoping to tap into someone's direct experience in this forum.
Any insight is very much appreciated.
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mbb
Mar 8, 2013, 3:53 AM
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Registered: Apr 21, 2008
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You have web page www.bergsteigen.at, it's in German, but I think it's easy to find. Multipitch (trad and sport) are under "klettern" and short sport routes are under "klettergarten". I didn't climb in Tirol yet, but for other parts of Austria I found this web page useful.
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JimTitt
Mar 8, 2013, 12:02 PM
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Registered: Aug 7, 2008
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Well the problem is the Tirol covers a lot of rock so the guides for each part are big. it´s like a who´s who of Austrian climbing. Here´s a list of the climbing areas in Tirol http://tirol.routebook.com/
You´ll also have to define what your idea of moderate is, if it´s up into the 7´s then there is a series `Genussklettern Österreich´which covers most of the good stuff. In German naturally enough.
The hotspots are probably Zillertal, Ötztal and the area around Imst as well as obviously the Wilde Kaiser which is probably the best if one is man enough!
Austrian grading is honest!
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qwert
Mar 9, 2013, 6:16 AM
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Registered: Mar 24, 2004
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What kind of multipitch do you want?
sport?
trad?
alpine?
Tirol should have a lot to offer for any kind of climbing, from overbolted sport to alpine deathtraps.
Also keep in mind that the german/austrian definition of alpine climbing is different from the american/english one. an "alpin" route could be a trad route without any snow or ice, but still in an somewhat alpine environment, which means it could be everywhere in Tirol, due to its central position in the alps.
qwert
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sltnv
Mar 9, 2013, 12:14 PM
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Registered: May 28, 2010
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Thanks for the beta. Realized my initial request was a bit vague. For this trip I was going to try to stay below 6b difficulty so my girlfriend can enjoy the experience more fully. To that end I'm OK with over-bolting or mixed sport/trad for this trip. Mostly hoping to take in the alpine beauty the Tirol area offers and was interested in others ideas about what was most inspiring for them.
Many thanks for the posts re: www.Bergsteigen.at and triol.routebook - very helpful. Also found a site called climbers-paradise.com.
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