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DanielK


Mar 9, 2013, 12:00 PM
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Indoor bouldering technique
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Hey guys, I'm brand new in this sport and would like some feedback on my climbing technique :)
Currently I use Nike Free shoes, but will buy some real climbing shoes shortly for better footgrip. I also use climbers chalk. Advice about shoes would be appreciated in this thread: http://www.rockclimbing.com/...rum.cgi?post=2619603

Anyway, here are 3 videos of a bouldering route (green rocks). What to improve on and what to change?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eSoif7ibldk

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UkMRvpejFn8

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PPi_wRR5IPE
Sideview of the wall (the I3 consists of green rocks): http://www.abekatten.nu/00026/00104/

Thanks in advance.


Nugester


Mar 9, 2013, 3:26 PM
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Re: [DanielK] Indoor bouldering technique [In reply to]
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-Work on foot work
-Don't scrunch up so much


skelldify


Mar 9, 2013, 3:34 PM
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Re: [DanielK] Indoor bouldering technique [In reply to]
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There no point in giving you advice until you get climbing shoes. You won't be climbing properly without them.


namoclimber


Mar 9, 2013, 3:40 PM
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Re: [DanielK] Indoor bouldering technique [In reply to]
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I think it would be best to add some feet in to problem and concentrate on keeping your feet on the wall at all times. By learning some straight arm technique too you will be able to more easily send problems of this type. Grab hold push up to the next hold not pull up to the next hold. Wink


DanielK


Mar 9, 2013, 11:05 PM
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Re: [namoclimber] Indoor bouldering technique [In reply to]
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Thanks for the replies guys, and yeah I see what you mean.
With running shoes the footgrip is awfull, resulting in the arms pulling the heavier load. I just ordered the Scarpa Force climbingshoe and hope I will receive it next week.



I'll keep posting my progress in this topic for you guys to comment on, might also film the easier I1 and I2 course or try speedclimbing the courses for faster completion, since I4 is way too hard for now.


DanielK


Mar 13, 2013, 3:46 PM
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Re: [DanielK] Indoor bouldering technique [In reply to]
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Videos shot from todays climbing:

Completion of I1
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v4SEvsqVcf0

Training on I4
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u1DusZTOwwU

Climbing shoes are ready to be picked up from the post office, so let's hope they fit.
Else I have to send them back and instead find a physical shop outside of my city to try some out.
Tuesday next week I got an appointment with our teacher from university at the local climbing club, so he can show me some techniques etc.
In 2 weeks I'm off to Poland to visit the center of climbing in Radom: http://cwgrota.pl/


mr.tastycakes


Mar 14, 2013, 7:27 AM
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Re: [DanielK] Indoor bouldering technique [In reply to]
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DanielK wrote:
What to improve on and what to change?

Basically everything. What else would you expect with 2 weeks of experience?

Improve your hand and foot placement, learn and refine the basic climbing movements (turning, flagging, etc), improve your sequence reading, improve your movement initiation and execution, improve your inter-muscular coordination (aka "body tension") so that you can keep your feet on, etc. That'll keep you busy for several years.

Enjoy the process. Focus on learning to climb well instead of scratching and clawing your way up more and more difficult routes. You're building a foundation for long term improvement that way, as opposed to ingraining bad beginner habits.


DanielK


Mar 14, 2013, 8:01 AM
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Re: [mr.tastycakes] Indoor bouldering technique [In reply to]
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Thanks for the feedback tasty.


Partner cracklover


Mar 14, 2013, 9:51 AM
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Re: [DanielK] Indoor bouldering technique [In reply to]
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I think the most important thing you could do is learn about turning your hips/shoulders. You climb everything straight on.

Not all about this video is great, but look at what he does at 0:37. Learn to do this, and learn the footwork that supports it. Find a couple of big holds on an overhang and practice reaching up high by turning your hips and shoulders until you get it. Then you can learn to integrate that into the rest of your climbing. It should do a lot to help keep your feet on, too, since you need to drive with your feet to make it happen.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3UOWHwwxczI

GO


DanielK


Mar 15, 2013, 12:47 AM
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Re: [cracklover] Indoor bouldering technique [In reply to]
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Trying out the climbing shoes for the first time.

Completing I2
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3e9J6qglWpI

Best try so far on the I4
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GzRmm8AuYic

@Cracklover
Thanks for the advice and video Cracklover. I do realize my footwork is bad, which is noticeable by the higher workload on the arms. Trying to work on it, however I think I have become much better to turn and twist my hips compared to earlier videos and also to lift my center of gravity up towards the wall on horizontal walls or in at vertical walls. Also I'm working on trying to let the arms be straight eventhough I have a strong natural urge to contract the biceps.

I experimented a bit with different footholds with the new climbing shoes, but it's difficult and I need more practise in them. Any advice on how to conquer the red I4 course? Grips to change, maybe a new plan of attack? :)


iknowfear


Mar 15, 2013, 3:48 AM
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Re: [DanielK] Indoor bouldering technique [In reply to]
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DanielK wrote:
Trying out the climbing shoes for the first time.

Completing I2
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3e9J6qglWpI

Best try so far on the I4
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GzRmm8AuYic

@Cracklover
Thanks for the advice and video Cracklover. I do realize my footwork is bad, which is noticeable by the higher workload on the arms. Trying to work on it, however I think I have become much better to turn and twist my hips compared to earlier videos and also to lift my center of gravity up towards the wall on horizontal walls or in at vertical walls. Also I'm working on trying to let the arms be straight eventhough I have a strong natural urge to contract the biceps.

I experimented a bit with different footholds with the new climbing shoes, but it's difficult and I need more practise in them. Any advice on how to conquer the red I4 course? Grips to change, maybe a new plan of attack? :)

two words of advice:

silent feet. As long as you can hear a foot placement, it is not precise!
And at the start of I4, you look up again before your foot is placed, resulting in an imprecise placement.


Partner cracklover


Mar 28, 2013, 12:17 PM
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Re: [DanielK] Indoor bouldering technique [In reply to]
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DanielK wrote:
Any advice on how to conquer the red I4 course? Grips to change, maybe a new plan of attack? :)

Yes - improve your footwork. As long as your feet keep coming off, it will remain hard. A lot of this has to do with the fact that you're still not really moving your weight effectively relative to the positions of the holds.

GO


Syd


Mar 29, 2013, 2:59 AM
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Re: [DanielK] Indoor bouldering technique [In reply to]
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Learning some technique is more important than shoes at your current stage. For overhangs, have someone show you how to flag for starters.


climb4free


Mar 29, 2013, 6:58 AM
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Re: [Syd] Indoor bouldering technique [In reply to]
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Syd wrote:
Learning some technique is more important than shoes at your current stage. For overhangs, have someone show you how to flag for starters.
I agree, however, it is extremely difficult to use proper technique in tennis shoes. Just a basic rock shoe is enough to allow a new climber to learn this one key lesson: that effective footwork will save energy and put you into better body positions.


Syd


Mar 29, 2013, 12:44 PM
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Re: [climb4free] Indoor bouldering technique [In reply to]
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climb4free, that would be my immediate reaction because like most climbers, I'm addicted to climbing shoes. However I know a very good climber who teaches beginners and doesn't advise climbing shoes initially because it allows them to avoid using good technique.
It doesn't apply so much for slabs I think, where footholds are smaller and edging etc is more important. On overhangs it's more about body position and body tension than fine footwork.


climb4free


Mar 29, 2013, 12:50 PM
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Re: [Syd] Indoor bouldering technique [In reply to]
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I would say dependency on feet is the better of two extremes. Even on the steeps, pulling into the wall is only made better with rock shoes.


(This post was edited by climb4free on Mar 29, 2013, 12:51 PM)


Syd


Mar 29, 2013, 1:23 PM
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Sure, pulling on toe hooks or heel hooks need shoes but in the video he should be pushing not pulling into his feet ... and he's on mega jugs that shouldn't need climbing shoes.


shotwell


Mar 29, 2013, 8:33 PM
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Re: [Syd] Indoor bouldering technique [In reply to]
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Syd wrote:
Sure, pulling on toe hooks or heel hooks need shoes but in the video he should be pushing not pulling into his feet ... and he's on mega jugs that shouldn't need climbing shoes.

You can pull your hips in and push your body up at the same time. This is a very common move in bouldering and absolutely miserable to perform without climbing shoes. You simply will never learn good foot technique without proper climbing shoes. It requires so much more than body position, even on giant jug feet.

Interestingly enough, i thought the OPs style showed good promise for a person that will be an exclusive boulderer. He instinctively keeps his toes pointed to the holds he has peeled from, lets his momentum carry himself back into the wall, and really doesn't fight the way the holds want to be pulled. Sure, he has a ton of work to do, but this is one of the many skills required for top level bouldering. Many climbers develop far too static a style to effectively boulder and eventually have to reprogram their skill set to advance.


Syd


Mar 29, 2013, 11:39 PM
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Re: [shotwell] Indoor bouldering technique [In reply to]
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He'll have to buy them sooner or later anyways.


DanielK


Mar 31, 2013, 10:46 AM
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Re: [shotwell] Indoor bouldering technique [In reply to]
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Thanks for your comments, and yeah I find the climbing shoes to be great!

Been doing some regular rock climbs with top-ropes lately. Personal best was to complete a 5.8 second time doing it.

I'll probably put up some videos soon of a hopefully successful I4 bouldering climb :)


bentgate03


Apr 4, 2013, 2:22 PM
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Re: [DanielK] Indoor bouldering technique [In reply to]
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DanielK wrote:
\
Anyway, here are 3 videos of a bouldering route (green rocks). What to improve on and what to change?



Thanks in advance.

A start would NOT be calling them green rocks Tongue.

It would be the green route.


DanielK


Apr 5, 2013, 3:40 PM
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Re: [bentgate03] Indoor bouldering technique [In reply to]
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Will do :)

Anyway.

Today I bouldered for the first time in 3 weeks, with only 4 regular top-rope rock climbing sessions done meanwhile.
I think the break from constant bouldering and the training sessions on the regular climbing wall, has taught me better technique together with giving me better finger strength.

I completed I1 very very easily in compare to previous attempts. I2 was likewise extremely easy.
I completed the I4 (V3-V5) on my first attempt. Notice the stronger grips, more straight arms and the twists.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oF4Bh9jLkBc

Also tried top outs on the I3, but they were too difficult still.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WEIthUfMcIQ

All in all, very satisfied with my progress!


(This post was edited by DanielK on Apr 5, 2013, 3:55 PM)


cpowers15


Apr 10, 2013, 12:07 PM
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Re: [DanielK] Indoor bouldering technique [In reply to]
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am I the only one waiting for a response on the V3-V5 rating?


atpclimbing


Apr 10, 2013, 12:39 PM
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Re: [cpowers15] Indoor bouldering technique [In reply to]
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cpowers15 wrote:
am I the only one waiting for a response on the V3-V5 rating?

If you watched the video, you know it's bull. Heck, even if you didn't you would know it's a load. Do we really wanna get into arguing about gym grades though?

I am kinda surprised it took that long though...


DanielK


Apr 11, 2013, 12:24 PM
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Re: [atpclimbing] Indoor bouldering technique [In reply to]
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So in your oppinion this route is easier than a V3?
And if yes, is your knowledge of the wall angle and grip quality enough to make such a statement in compare to the person that build the route?

On another note I've been practising on the F1 route for 3 sessions in the last 5 days nad have done great progress. First time I completed 2/3, second session just a grip further and today another couple of grips, making only the remaining 4 grips unconquered. F1 is still a V3-V5, but more difficult than I4 though. Will put up a video soon.

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