Forums: Climbing Information: Technique & Training:
Overhang Training
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Technique & Training

Premier Sponsor:

 


elearn11


Mar 9, 2013, 9:44 PM
Post #1 of 9 (2601 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 9, 2013
Posts: 3

Overhang Training
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

So, looking for advice on how to train for bouldering Overhang/roofs...without any overhang/roof on the indoor wall available to me. Unfortunately the climbing wall that is on campus really is only slabby/flat wall for the most part, one small overhung section, but nothing extensive, and thats only for top rope.

A little background info that may help: Been climbing consistently for the past 2 1/2 years, climbing average of V4-V5 consistently. I've got decent technique, kind of unsure where I should put focus into my training, whether work on more technical aspects or if I should try to work on strength training. Any information, advice, etc would help greatly!


Thanks all! [:)]


6pacfershur


Mar 10, 2013, 5:06 PM
Post #2 of 9 (2454 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 22, 2010
Posts: 220

Re: [elearn11] Overhang Training [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

maybe you can scout out some bouldering outdoors? even low boulders may offer an over-hanging sit-start; 20-30 reps can work wonders....... considered illegal in many towns, find some balconies or overhanging alcoves on local buildings to practice on, just dont mention my name.........


elearn11


Mar 10, 2013, 9:06 PM
Post #3 of 9 (2411 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 9, 2013
Posts: 3

Re: [6pacfershur] Overhang Training [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I'll be sure to tell them exactly who sent me! lol But currently its too cold (in southern CO) to go outdoors as much as I wish i could, and its more specifically for training for the CCS series. Last 2 bouldering competitions were rough since the gyms/walls were mostly overhang.

Thank you though! its much appreciated.


jomagam


Mar 10, 2013, 9:56 PM
Post #4 of 9 (2401 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 9, 2008
Posts: 364

Re: [elearn11] Overhang Training [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

elearn11 wrote:
But currently its too cold (in southern CO) to go outdoors

Move to northern Colorado. Weather is good enough here to climb outside.


lena_chita
Moderator

Mar 11, 2013, 7:39 AM
Post #5 of 9 (2341 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 27, 2006
Posts: 5756

Re: [elearn11] Overhang Training [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

elearn11 wrote:
I'll be sure to tell them exactly who sent me! lol But currently its too cold (in southern CO) to go outdoors as much as I wish i could, and its more specifically for training for the CCS series. Last 2 bouldering competitions were rough since the gyms/walls were mostly overhang.

Thank you though! its much appreciated.

I cannot think of anything that would help you learn the technique you need on overhanging climbs and roofs without access to those kinds of walls/roofs.

If it is too cold in Southern Colorado, drive to Arizona, New Mexico, or Utah?

Or make a day trip to farther gyms that have overhanging walls every weekend.


I am not sure exactly where you are located, but I AM pretty sure that you have more climbing within 6 hours of driving from you than I have within 10 hours of driving radius. Find it!


elearn11


Mar 11, 2013, 9:01 AM
Post #6 of 9 (2319 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 9, 2013
Posts: 3

Re: [lena_chita] Overhang Training [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I live in the San Luis Valley, so I'm kind of isolated. I'm new to the area so I'm still learning places to go climbing outdoors. Closet gym is about 2 hours away, and weekends have been usually filled with competitions or other activities. Sounds like my options are pretty limited, but I figured it was worth a shot to see if anyone had an ideas.


shimanilami


Mar 11, 2013, 3:09 PM
Post #7 of 9 (2262 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 24, 2006
Posts: 2043

Re: [elearn11] Overhang Training [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

A friend of mine was in a similar situation. His parents had a deck in the back yard that was 6-8' off the ground. He used scrap wood to create "holds" on the deck joists, mostly big and juggy but with some smaller edges too. He'd go out there and completely wear himself out just trying to hold on to the underside of the deck. He got crazy strong through his core, with compression-type moves, etc. I can't say his technique was all that great, but his strength and power gains were impressive.

If you have access to a deck, the only thing to hold you back is how much gumption and creativity you can muster up.


JAB


Mar 12, 2013, 9:16 AM
Post #8 of 9 (2196 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 26, 2007
Posts: 373

Re: [elearn11] Overhang Training [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

You might get some benefit of training on a finger board or even just a pull up bar. Do leg raises or try to do front levers.

A very important bit when climbing on overhanging terrain is to keep your feet on the wall (wildly swinging around is a great noob sign), and that is obviuosly a big drawback of hanging on a bar. So while far from optimal, it's probably better than nothing.


Forums : Climbing Information : Technique & Training

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook