Forums: Climbing Information: Injury Treatment and Prevention:
Bouldering without a mat
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Injury Treatment and Prevention

Premier Sponsor:

 


climberoon


Mar 11, 2013, 3:42 PM
Post #1 of 16 (3406 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 11, 2013
Posts: 4

Bouldering without a mat
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I am considering bouldering by myself without a mat or a spotter. Will this cause any joint problems in the long run (like when you fall and land on your feet)?


SE_climber


Mar 11, 2013, 4:12 PM
Post #2 of 16 (3382 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 2, 2013
Posts: 31

Re: [climberoon] Bouldering without a mat [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

You risk serious injury in the long and short term. It all depends on the ground you're landing on and how far you're falling. On uneven, rocky terrain (where most boulders are) you risk sprained or broken ankles, heel or ball contusion/breakage, and low back problems to name a few possibilities. That's if you land on your feet. There's always a chance you won't.

Climbing shoes aren't supportive enough to protect you when you fall. Just get an el cheapo mad rock pad. Your feet will thank you.


Kartessa


Mar 11, 2013, 5:35 PM
Post #3 of 16 (3351 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 17, 2008
Posts: 7356

Re: [climberoon] Bouldering without a mat [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (2 ratings)  
Can't Post

climberoon wrote:
I am considering bouldering by myself without a mat or a spotter. Will this cause any joint problems in the long run (like when you fall and land on your feet)?

Why wouldn't you want a pad?


maldaly


Mar 11, 2013, 6:00 PM
Post #4 of 16 (3341 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 31, 2002
Posts: 1207

Re: [climberoon] Bouldering without a mat [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (4 ratings)  
Can't Post

What do Mark Wilford, Steve Mammen, Malcolm Daly, Dave Bohn, Jim Holloway, Mike Graham, Rick Accomazzo, John Bachar, Ron Kauk, Jim Bridwell, Doug Robinson, Peter Croft, Billy Westbay, Peter Hahn, Pat Ament, John Gill and many many others have in common?

None of them ever bouldered with a mat.

Any questions?


climberoon


Mar 11, 2013, 7:06 PM
Post #5 of 16 (3326 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 11, 2013
Posts: 4

Re: [Kartessa] Bouldering without a mat [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (3 ratings)  
Can't Post

How many pads are we talking here? If you're going to boulder for real, you need at least 3 to 5 pads which can be quite pricey.


crackmeup


Mar 11, 2013, 7:44 PM
Post #6 of 16 (3307 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 23, 2006
Posts: 146

Re: [climberoon] Bouldering without a mat [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (2 ratings)  
Can't Post

Get one Organic pad and go boulder with other people. It's more fun, and you get spotters and more pads.

If you are the lone wolf type and prefer to boulder by yourself, pick low and/or vertical (straight up) problems with flat landings. Learn how to place your pad. Or, find relatively low traverses where you don't need pads. Or limit yourself to problems where you believe you won't fall. In any case, learn proper falling technique. Usually the quality of the landing is much more important than the height.

If you don't have money for a pad, go to a climbing shop and take a look at Better Bouldering by John Sherman (no need to buy it). He has many old-school tips to avoid injuries. For example:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2pGy1Iop8M0


curt


Mar 11, 2013, 10:50 PM
Post #7 of 16 (3274 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 26, 2002
Posts: 18229

Re: [climberoon] Bouldering without a mat [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

climberoon wrote:
I am considering bouldering by myself without a mat or a spotter...

Yer gonna die. Cool

Curt


lena_chita
Moderator

Mar 12, 2013, 7:49 AM
Post #8 of 16 (3188 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 27, 2006
Posts: 5662

Re: [climberoon] Bouldering without a mat [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (2 ratings)  
Can't Post

climberoon wrote:
I am considering bouldering by myself without a mat or a spotter. Will this cause any joint problems in the long run (like when you fall and land on your feet)?


It is very fitting that this kind of bouldering question is posted in the injury forum...

Common sense; you fall, you hit hard rocks, you land badly on uneven ground, you get hurt. Not just sometime in the future, from joints wearing out, but probably much sooner, from broken legs, tailbones, etc.

People who choose to free solo or boulder without pads usually have very keep understanding of the consequences of their actions, and experience to judge the situation accurately. Based on your question, you don't strike me as the person who should be bouldering alone and without spotters


ironmike


Mar 12, 2013, 5:41 PM
Post #9 of 16 (3118 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 13, 2005
Posts: 25

Re: [climberoon] Bouldering without a mat [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

Go for it. Old school. Just realize you will pay for it w/ your body. Using no pads will keep you honest as you will be more careful, and you will delude yourself that that 25 foot highball that you're on won't kill you if you peel.

Go for it, if that what's motivating you. It's still a free country, and you still have freedom to make your own choice. Pads were created to make money, and there's nothing wrong with that. You don't have to use them.


shotwell


Mar 12, 2013, 7:49 PM
Post #10 of 16 (3101 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 5, 2009
Posts: 366

Re: [ironmike] Bouldering without a mat [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

ironmike wrote:
Go for it. Old school. Just realize you will pay for it w/ your body. Using no pads will keep you honest as you will be more careful, and you will delude yourself that that 25 foot highball that you're on won't kill you if you peel.

Go for it, if that what's motivating you. It's still a free country, and you still have freedom to make your own choice. Pads were created to make money, and there's nothing wrong with that. You don't have to use them.

The use of pads does not cause this attitude. Highballing was prevalent in pre pad days as well. Everyone that I know that gets high off the deck is aware of just how little the pads do for them.

In routine, try hard bouldering a pad is now an essential piece of equipment. My legs, back, head, and ass all appreciate the use of multiple pads and a good spotter. Do whatever you want, but the advice that a lack of proper safety equipment will make you a safer climber is...foolish. Of course, experienced climbers frequently go without pads. They already know their limits and are willing to accept the risks. If you're new move forward with caution and protect yourself. The medical bills or insurance co-pay/deductible from one fall are far more than a whole slew of pads.


ironmike


Mar 13, 2013, 3:16 PM
Post #11 of 16 (3035 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 13, 2005
Posts: 25

Re: [ironmike] Bouldering without a mat [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

Edging skills or hospital bills.


Partner cracklover


Mar 14, 2013, 9:01 AM
Post #12 of 16 (2949 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 14, 2002
Posts: 10000

Re: [ironmike] Bouldering without a mat [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

ironmike wrote:
Edging skills or hospital bills.

Finger locks or pine box

One blunder and it's six feet under

GO


camhead


Mar 14, 2013, 10:40 AM
Post #13 of 16 (2923 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 9, 2001
Posts: 20738

Re: [maldaly] Bouldering without a mat [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (2 ratings)  
Can't Post

maldaly wrote:
What do Mark Wilford, Steve Mammen, Malcolm Daly, Dave Bohn, Jim Holloway, Mike Graham, Rick Accomazzo, John Bachar, Ron Kauk, Jim Bridwell, Doug Robinson, Peter Croft, Billy Westbay, Peter Hahn, Pat Ament, John Gill and many many others have in common?

None of them ever bouldered with a mat.

Any questions?

This is true, but all of these guys were well-versed in more old school, traditional philosophies that took falls and calculated risks much more seriously.

Furthermore, a lot of old-school boulder problems are very short (2-3 moves, in the case of Holloway's hardest lines), and have great landings. Longer problems were actually put up as topropes, even by luminaries like Gill or Bob Murray. Shit, all the classic v6-8s on the north face of the Mushroom Boulder were originally topropes. Highball solos like The Thimble were NOT the norm even back then.

Most climbers coming out of the gym today are going to take falls less seriously than the names that you mentioned. Most more recently developed bouldering areas and problems (Horsepens, LRC, Joe's Valley, most of Hueco) were put up with the assumption that people repeating problems would have pads and spotters. And finally, toproping (either solo or belayed), is WAY more frowned upon nowadays for boulder problems than it was in the 1970s.

Short version, don't go start bouldering without a pad or spotter just because you think all the mythical heroes of past generations did. If you do, you'll get hurt.


(This post was edited by camhead on Mar 14, 2013, 10:43 AM)


ironmike


Mar 15, 2013, 4:21 PM
Post #14 of 16 (2805 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 13, 2005
Posts: 25

Re: [cracklover] Bouldering without a mat [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Duuude! Righteous follow-up


curt


Mar 15, 2013, 9:17 PM
Post #15 of 16 (2772 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 26, 2002
Posts: 18229

Re: [cracklover] Bouldering without a mat [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

cracklover wrote:
ironmike wrote:
Edging skills or hospital bills.

Finger locks or pine box

One blunder and it's six feet under

GO

Don't forget the original of that genre...

Fire or Retire.

Curt


brooklynclimber


Mar 26, 2013, 6:19 AM
Post #16 of 16 (2568 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 6, 2012
Posts: 94

Re: [crackmeup] Bouldering without a mat [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

crackmeup wrote:
He has many old-school tips to avoid injuries.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2pGy1Iop8M0
"My docs tell me if I get one more concussion, I'm going to turn into a sport climber"

heheh


Forums : Climbing Information : Injury Treatment and Prevention

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?
$134.99 (10% off)
$34.16 (10% off)
$13.46 (10% off)
$8.96 (10% off)



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook