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A few different gear questions about durability
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UpToTheOzone


Mar 15, 2013, 5:42 PM
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A few different gear questions about durability
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What does falling do to a rope's lifetime? I'm talking less about big whippers and more about well protected falls where the fall is under 15 feet and there is more than 40 feet of rope out. Someone told me that a UIAA fall is something like fall factor 1.75, not sure if that is true, but just in general, do these small smalls really matter on rope life? And does this differ on a 9.4mm vs a 9.8mm or is the smaller diameter more of an issue for the rope cutting and/or sheath damage due to abrasion?

Next question is probably a simple one. I bought 2 older cams (5-10 years) when I was at camp 4; the guy I bought them from told me their age and recommended replacing the webbing. Where and how can I do this? The reason I bought these cams was because they were good in between sizes of the set that I already own; and also, the low cost makes them a good choice if I need to bail for whatever reason.

Lastly, what is the recommended knot for joining two ropes of a different diameter? I use an overhand knot (calling it an EDK just perpetuates the stereotype) when the diameters are similar, but I recently saw a guy at red rocks trailing a piece of dental floss that couldn't have been more than 5 or 6 mil and said that he would join them with a single EDK. Is the double fisherman better here? I've heard two overhands in opposite directions as well.

Thanks in advance for your answers


billl7


Mar 15, 2013, 6:26 PM
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Re: [UpToTheOzone] A few different gear questions about durability [In reply to]
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UpToTheOzone wrote:
What does falling do to a rope's lifetime? I'm talking less about big whippers and more about well protected falls where the fall is under 15 feet and there is more than 40 feet of rope out. Someone told me that a UIAA fall is something like fall factor 1.75, not sure if that is true, but just in general, do these small smalls really matter on rope life? And does this differ on a 9.4mm vs a 9.8mm or is the smaller diameter more of an issue for the rope cutting and/or sheath damage due to abrasion?

Next question is probably a simple one. I bought 2 older cams (5-10 years) when I was at camp 4; the guy I bought them from told me their age and recommended replacing the webbing. Where and how can I do this? The reason I bought these cams was because they were good in between sizes of the set that I already own; and also, the low cost makes them a good choice if I need to bail for whatever reason.

Lastly, what is the recommended knot for joining two ropes of a different diameter? I use an overhand knot (calling it an EDK just perpetuates the stereotype) when the diameters are similar, but I recently saw a guy at red rocks trailing a piece of dental floss that couldn't have been more than 5 or 6 mil and said that he would join them with a single EDK. Is the double fisherman better here? I've heard two overhands in opposite directions as well.

Thanks in advance for your answers
I suspect you have at least three threads worth of questions there. Smile.

Maybe pick one topic for this thread - maybe the one that matters the most to you. Then, some time later, start the other two on different threads.

Bill L


USnavy


Mar 15, 2013, 10:45 PM
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Re: [UpToTheOzone] A few different gear questions about durability [In reply to]
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UpToTheOzone wrote:
What does falling do to a rope's lifetime? I'm talking less about big whippers and more about well protected falls where the fall is under 15 feet and there is more than 40 feet of rope out. Someone told me that a UIAA fall is something like fall factor 1.75, not sure if that is true, but just in general, do these small smalls really matter on rope life? And does this differ on a 9.4mm vs a 9.8mm or is the smaller diameter more of an issue for the rope cutting and/or sheath damage due to abrasion?

Next question is probably a simple one. I bought 2 older cams (5-10 years) when I was at camp 4; the guy I bought them from told me their age and recommended replacing the webbing. Where and how can I do this? The reason I bought these cams was because they were good in between sizes of the set that I already own; and also, the low cost makes them a good choice if I need to bail for whatever reason.

Lastly, what is the recommended knot for joining two ropes of a different diameter? I use an overhand knot (calling it an EDK just perpetuates the stereotype) when the diameters are similar, but I recently saw a guy at red rocks trailing a piece of dental floss that couldn't have been more than 5 or 6 mil and said that he would join them with a single EDK. Is the double fisherman better here? I've heard two overhands in opposite directions as well.

Thanks in advance for your answers

1. Dont worry about the quanity of falls. Falling will tear up the sheath faster than not falling, but not enough to matter. I have ropes that have suppressed 200 lead falls that I still have in service. As long as your rope does not have a core shot, and it has not been chemically altered or damaged, it is likely still fine.

2. Black Diamond, Yates or Metolius.

3. The EDK is fine, regardless of the rope diameter. I have used the EDK to join 10.5mm and 6mm many times. Just make sure you pretension the knot thoroughly and leave 24" tails.


moose_droppings


Mar 16, 2013, 10:23 AM
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Re: [UpToTheOzone] A few different gear questions about durability [In reply to]
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Depends on time and use but your rope will gradually lose elasticity.

Along with the ones names in the above post, MountainTools can also resling your cams.

What your intended use of the ropes are after they've been joined would depend on which knot I'd use.


UpToTheOzone


Mar 16, 2013, 11:17 AM
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Re: [moose_droppings] A few different gear questions about durability [In reply to]
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moose_droppings wrote:
What your intended use of the ropes are after they've been joined would depend on which knot I'd use.

Rappelling back to the ground, or next rappel station


moose_droppings


Mar 16, 2013, 12:11 PM
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Re: [UpToTheOzone] A few different gear questions about durability [In reply to]
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Then the EDK as suggested works fine. I believe it's rgold that has pics to show the safest way of joining 2 different sized ropes together using the EDK.


marc801


Mar 16, 2013, 4:32 PM
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Re: [USnavy] A few different gear questions about durability [In reply to]
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USnavy wrote:
2. Black Diamond, Yates or Metolius.
Black Diamond will only resling their own cams. Yates will do any brand. Not sure about Metolius.


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