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Highline bolts @ Trad Crags
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shortman


Mar 21, 2013, 4:59 AM
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Highline bolts @ Trad Crags
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How have people dealt with educating highliners with ethics regarding bolt placement and numbers at self regulated predominantly trad crags?


USnavy


Mar 21, 2013, 4:35 PM
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Re: [shortman] Highline bolts @ Trad Crags [In reply to]
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shortman wrote:
How have people dealt with educating highliners with ethics regarding bolt placement and numbers at self regulated predominantly trad crags?
Are highliners bolting up the top of your trad crags?


jt512


Mar 21, 2013, 6:42 PM
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Re: [shortman] Highline bolts @ Trad Crags [In reply to]
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shortman wrote:
How have people dealt with educating highliners with ethics regarding bolt placement and numbers at self regulated predominantly trad crags?




shortman


Mar 21, 2013, 6:47 PM
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Re: [USnavy] Highline bolts @ Trad Crags [In reply to]
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Yeah, scissors will do the trick.

Twang.


(This post was edited by shortman on Mar 21, 2013, 6:49 PM)


shortman


Mar 21, 2013, 6:48 PM
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Re: [USnavy] Highline bolts @ Trad Crags [In reply to]
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USnavy wrote:
shortman wrote:
How have people dealt with educating highliners with ethics regarding bolt placement and numbers at self regulated predominantly trad crags?
Are highliners bolting up the top of your trad crags?

Yep


USnavy


Mar 24, 2013, 12:52 AM
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Re: [shortman] Highline bolts @ Trad Crags [In reply to]
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shortman wrote:
USnavy wrote:
shortman wrote:
How have people dealt with educating highliners with ethics regarding bolt placement and numbers at self regulated predominantly trad crags?
Are highliners bolting up the top of your trad crags?

Yep
Well, have you talked to them? That would the correct place to start. See if you can come to an agreement of some sort. Explain to them that preserving the local tradition is important to you and see if you can convince them to install bolts in a lesser-known area. Or possibly they could install bolts further back and away from the cliffside. Being both a highliner and a climber I understand both aspects. Highliners need bolts for solid anchors and tradsters want to preserve the local culture. I am sure something can be worked out.


jt512 wrote:
shortman wrote:
How have people dealt with educating highliners with ethics regarding bolt placement and numbers at self regulated predominantly trad crags?

[img]http://jt512.dyndns.org/images/scissors.gif[/img]
Chopping bolts is a completely asinine and ineffective solution to dealing with disagreements. All they are going to do is come back and install more bolts leading to further visual impact.


shortman


Mar 24, 2013, 2:08 PM
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Re: [USnavy] Highline bolts @ Trad Crags [In reply to]
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I thinking he was suggesting to cut the line.


aprice00


Apr 5, 2013, 12:40 PM
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Re: [shortman] Highline bolts @ Trad Crags [In reply to]
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How do you feel about painted bolts or stacking rocks on them when they are not in use?


mental.physics


Apr 28, 2013, 8:46 PM
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Re: [shortman] Highline bolts @ Trad Crags [In reply to]
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Careful mate, its a slippery slope once you start demonising one user group.

I don't know the specific context (what crag? local bolting ethics?) but you are much better off being civil and starting a dialogue rather than jumping to the massive black scissors.

Lets not get all high and mighty that climbing is somehow 'more legit' than slacklining as you could quite easily ruin access for both user groups. Climbers have an impact (even at trad crags) and slackers have an impact. Lets work to minimise all impact and learn to play together!


surfstar


Apr 29, 2013, 3:37 PM
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Re: [aprice00] Highline bolts @ Trad Crags [In reply to]
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aprice00 wrote:
How do you feel about painted bolts or stacking rocks on them when they are not in use?

Only if they are directly above the climbing routes, then be sure to pile lots of rocks over the bolts to hide them. Crazy


aprice00


Sep 10, 2013, 2:44 PM
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Re: [surfstar] Highline bolts @ Trad Crags [In reply to]
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Obviously you don't know anything about highlining. Most experience folk place the bolts as much as 10 feet back from the face. I personally don't see anything wrong with responsible bolting if you make efforts to hide them.


billcoe_


Oct 3, 2013, 11:10 AM
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Re: [aprice00] Highline bolts @ Trad Crags [In reply to]
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I don't see it as something to get yer panties in a wad. It's not like allowing a set of bolts will cause them to sprout everywhere, slackening spots are not just everywhere. I speak as an old trad guy who doesn't slack line. I do, however, see them in some of the places I climb on occasion. The Monkey Face mouth cave where you pretty much have to step over the steel channel iron that has maybe 3 big wedge anchors on each side keeping it pinned to the rock so folks can rarely (but still do) set up slacklines. If I don't want to see them I can simply climb another face (North, East, West all point to space and have no extraneous bolts). I don't understand why it would be an issue with others, but if you are feeling aggrieved or that someone is in your turf where ever you feel that is, talk it over with them.


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