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Rumney vs. Red River Gorge for kids
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brooklynclimber


Mar 25, 2013, 2:59 PM
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Rumney vs. Red River Gorge for kids
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I'm planning an early summer trip with the
kids, 8 and 12. They are pretty solid climbers, though they have not climbed sport before. Only toproping at the gym.

I'm going to make a few trips to Peterskill to toprope and see how they like climbing outdoors.

My 12 yo will learn to lead before the trip with any luck. So the hope is that she would lead, set up a top rope for the 8 yo, then belay me to rap and clean. Still have to see if she's heavy enough to belay me. I weigh 160, she weighs 80. Can I build an anchor for her to a tree or rock? Or is this just a dumb idea?

I just got back from RRG, and think the climbing there would be ideal for them, but Rumney is a bit closer. I've been told that there are not quite enough easy routes at Rumney to make a trip worthwhile. 12 yo can go up 5.9s pretty easily and 5.10a with a bit of hanging. 8 yo can boulder v3s when the holds are closer together, and has a bit of a fear of heights, so might bail halfway through the climbs.

So, 1. Is it a pipe dream to have her belay me? 2. RRG vs. Rumney for kids


jomagam


Mar 25, 2013, 4:47 PM
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Re: [brooklynclimber] Rumney vs. Red River Gorge for kids [In reply to]
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I'd be hesitant for multiple reasons:

2:1 weight difference is big, especially with an inexperienced belayer. And outside 5.9 is very different from a gym 5.9, in most places at least. Your daughter should get really comfortable indoors first, and you should be prepared to finish a climb that she cannot figure out. And based on the fact that your 8-year old can boulder V3, I'm going to guess that grades in your gym are on the soft side.

I'd say your best bet is to go to a popular crag at RRG, like Bruisebrothers, and ask for a catch from an adult.


brooklynclimber


Mar 25, 2013, 6:17 PM
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Re: [jomagam] Rumney vs. Red River Gorge for kids [In reply to]
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Thanks for the advice. I was leaning towards having an adult belay, but always an optimist. I just got back from Bruise Brothers, and frankly would rather free solo than get belayed by most of the people there. We actually left the crag because it was just too painful - newbies belaying with brake hand above the atc, someone decking because they placed trad gear incorrectly. Ugh.

PS, I think the ratings at the gym (Brooklyn Boulders) is pretty solid. My daughter is simply an amazing athlete. I'm not biased at all.


carabiner96


Mar 25, 2013, 6:38 PM
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Re: [brooklynclimber] Rumney vs. Red River Gorge for kids [In reply to]
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I don't think Rumney is that great for kids, or anyone that's mostly used to gym climbing. RRG lends itself much better to that. Rumney has a lot of slick rock with pinches and moved that you're not likely to find in a gym. Unless short bouldery routes are your thing, I'd do RRG.

Also, black fly season is coming up in the north soon.


skelldify


Mar 25, 2013, 7:28 PM
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Re: [brooklynclimber] Rumney vs. Red River Gorge for kids [In reply to]
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Have your kid practice belaying you in the gym!


jomagam


Mar 25, 2013, 9:21 PM
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Re: [brooklynclimber] Rumney vs. Red River Gorge for kids [In reply to]
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brooklynclimber wrote:
PS, I think the ratings at the gym (Brooklyn Boulders) is pretty solid. My daughter is simply an amazing athlete. I'm not biased at all.

Your son is even better then considering V3 is like a solid 5.11


brooklynclimber


Mar 26, 2013, 5:26 AM
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Yeah, I have never been able to figure out the equivalent between v.x and 5.x grades. I am a pretty solid v3 climber, but can't make it up a 5.10b, and she (the 12 year old) is about the same. There are some long threads on this subject here that I started reading, but I think that it comes down to endurance, and the fact that it's easier to project a boulder route because it's shorter.

Anyhow, thanks for the advice.


Kartessa


Mar 26, 2013, 5:51 AM
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Re: [brooklynclimber] Rumney vs. Red River Gorge for kids [In reply to]
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I'd say RRG.

I'll be headed there in a couple of weeks with my non-climber 5 year old. It's a great culture down there, lots of other kids and tons of fun activities for them.


hey_bonzo


Mar 27, 2013, 10:26 AM
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Re: [Kartessa] Rumney vs. Red River Gorge for kids [In reply to]
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Have you been to Practice Wall at Muir Valley, RRG? I've climbed there with my sons (13 & 8) many times. It's a nice short wall with easy climbs. My older son's first lead was on that wall. We taught him to clean anchors there. There are several climbs my younger son can do. It's a great place for beginners and children. Some of the climbs can be accessed from the top.

Bruise Brothers wall is great too; but, it can be a bit of a zoo: newbies, gymrats, et al. Practice wall seems to attract a little more sedate crowd. I bet you could find an adult belay at Practice Wall too.

There is some nice 5.7-5.8 slab at Animal Crackers in Muir. I hesitate thou. On a couple of climbs, the climber goes out of view at the top. It's a quieter wall; It would be harder to find an adult belayer there.

Concentrations of other easier climbs for kids include Great Wall and Land Before Time Wall.


edge


Mar 27, 2013, 11:06 AM
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Re: [brooklynclimber] Rumney vs. Red River Gorge for kids [In reply to]
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Rumney would have some options, but the areas with beginners routes are close to the road and always mobbed. It is difficult to set top ropes from above due to the fragile plant life, so almost all require leading. The routes that might fit your bill are spread out over many crags all the way across the hillside and can be quite strenuous to access. Given your needs, though, you could probably spend a good week there.


lkeegan


Mar 27, 2013, 12:05 PM
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Re: [brooklynclimber] Rumney vs. Red River Gorge for kids [In reply to]
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brooklynclimber wrote:
Thanks for the advice. I was leaning towards having an adult belay, but always an optimist. I just got back from Bruise Brothers, and frankly would rather free solo than get belayed by most of the people there. We actually left the crag because it was just too painful - newbies belaying with brake hand above the atc, someone decking because they placed trad gear incorrectly. Ugh.

PS, I think the ratings at the gym (Brooklyn Boulders) is pretty solid. My daughter is simply an amazing athlete. I'm not biased at all.


I here you there. I had a similar experience with that at bruise brothers. I can say that it is the worst crag I've even been to (not in terms of climbs, but in terms of the shit that goes on there). If I had kids, I wouldn't take them there.

But there is a lot at the RRG that is less sketchy with some easier climbs.

I've never been to rumney, but have you thought about the NRG? I find it tends to be less of a gong show and it has some easier areas.


dreday3000


Mar 27, 2013, 12:11 PM
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Re: [Kartessa] Rumney vs. Red River Gorge for kids [In reply to]
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Kartessa wrote:
I'd say RRG.

I'll be headed there in a couple of weeks with my non-climber 5 year old. It's a great culture down there, lots of other kids and tons of fun activities for them.

For real? The Red has a great culture if you're a dirtbag but I wouldn't exactly call it kid friendly.


toofreakinsexy1


Mar 27, 2013, 1:26 PM
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I second Practice Wall at RRG. I've climbed pretty extensively across both areas and I wouldn't recommend Rumney for easy leading. It's there, but the easier stuff tends to be really slabby or wandery.... not great for a newbie to fall on. RRG has a lot of dead vertical REALLY good 5.7-5.9's. Head there, hands down.

Oh, and don't worry about the belay. As long as your kid's a competant belayer. My wife is 80 lbs lighter than me and she doesn't anchor (unless a specific situation warrants it)


Kartessa


Mar 27, 2013, 1:49 PM
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dreday3000 wrote:
Kartessa wrote:
I'd say RRG.

I'll be headed there in a couple of weeks with my non-climber 5 year old. It's a great culture down there, lots of other kids and tons of fun activities for them.

For real? The Red has a great culture if you're a dirtbag but I wouldn't exactly call it kid friendly.

I guess it depends on the kid - And more importantly, the parents.

I know my son well enough to know when he's had enough, and there's a lot of other things for him to do down there.


virial


Mar 27, 2013, 4:45 PM
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If the new river gorge starts flying on your radar, just remember, you start at the top of the cliffs in most areas there......the red u start at the bottoms of the cliffs mostly....not been to Rumny


brooklynclimber


Mar 27, 2013, 5:30 PM
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virial wrote:
If the new river gorge starts flying on your radar, just remember, you start at the top of the cliffs in most areas there......the red u start at the bottoms of the cliffs mostly....not been to Rumny
True for the New, except for Bubba City. Climbed there last week. You do start at the top, but you have to hike into a huge depression, then back out. So, it's up and down both in and out. Plus we got moderately lost trying to get out.


granite_grrl


Mar 28, 2013, 7:14 AM
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brooklynclimber wrote:
virial wrote:
If the new river gorge starts flying on your radar, just remember, you start at the top of the cliffs in most areas there......the red u start at the bottoms of the cliffs mostly....not been to Rumny
True for the New, except for Bubba City. Climbed there last week. You do start at the top, but you have to hike into a huge depression, then back out. So, it's up and down both in and out. Plus we got moderately lost trying to get out.

Lots of crags at the New where you hike to the base rather than scramble (Beauty, Junkyard, Bridge Buttress, Medow River Crags, Kaymoor, Cotton Top.....).

But in terms of style of climbing I think the Red is the best. When talking sport climbs the New and Rumney are rather bouldery styles (unless you're crack climbing at the New). The Red is more enduranced based and you encounter far fewer stopper moves.

As for the areas - the New will be the most interesting with all the tourist stuff you can do around Fayetteville. If the kids like hiking/exploring the Red is great with a pile of different hiking trails usually to some interesting rock formations. I'm not sure what there is to do around Rumney, but there has to be some hiking trails, etc too?


Kartessa


Mar 28, 2013, 7:27 AM
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For the red: there's the April races at Keene, pack a picnic and watch some skydivers, check out the natural bridge, go to the "reptile zoo guy"


hyhuu


Mar 28, 2013, 11:46 AM
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virial wrote:
If the new river gorge starts flying on your radar, just remember, you start at the top of the cliffs in most areas there......the red u start at the bottoms of the cliffs mostly....not been to Rumny

This is wayyy over generalized. You might start at the top of the gorge but access to the climbs at Meadows, Kaymore, Summersville, Beauty Mountain, Cotton Top, South Nut Tall is from the bottom. It's like wise for much of the the Endless Wall. In addition, there aren't many good 5.9 bolted climbs at the New either.


virial


Mar 28, 2013, 8:44 PM
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Just in general, easy access to the top of cliffs do not mix well with some children, if I was going to take my daughter I would go to any of the areas, my son......is another story all together


virial


Mar 28, 2013, 8:48 PM
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Not sure how your getting access, but those ladders at endless would be a lot for my daughter, I'd have to tie her in, the red I don't have these issues, and I like climbing at new more, just more cliffs to worry about with children


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