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lead rope soloing bolted climbs
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fnfolen


Mar 31, 2013, 6:18 PM
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Registered: Jul 20, 2011
Posts: 16

lead rope soloing bolted climbs
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For those of you who lead rope solo bolted climbs, I'm wondering what configuration you use on climbs where you can't build a ground anchor and instead choose to utilize the bolts.

Do you do something like:

A) First bolt - figure 8 on a bight/bunny ears on two locking carabiners
B) Second bolt - short quick draw with two small lockers, pull up slack so carabiners at first bolt now oriented for upward pull, tie slip knot above bottom quick draw carabiner to keep carabiners at first bolt oriented up.

Proceed as usual

The only thing I don't like about that is there's no redundancy for the first bolt, I suppose you could repeat what you did at A) on the second bolt as well, and don't do B) until you get to third bolt.

Anyway just curious as to what others have come up with for this, so far I've only been doing those where I can build a nice ground anchor.

cheers


(This post was edited by fnfolen on Mar 31, 2013, 6:19 PM)


vinnie83


Mar 31, 2013, 7:48 PM
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Registered: Jun 27, 2004
Posts: 110

Re: [fnfolen] lead rope soloing bolted climbs [In reply to]
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fnfolen wrote:
For those of you who lead rope solo bolted climbs, I'm wondering what configuration you use on climbs where you can't build a ground anchor and instead choose to utilize the bolts.

Do you do something like:

A) First bolt - figure 8 on a bight/bunny ears on two locking carabiners
B) Second bolt - short quick draw with two small lockers, pull up slack so carabiners at first bolt now oriented for upward pull, tie slip knot above bottom quick draw carabiner to keep carabiners at first bolt oriented up.

Proceed as usual

The only thing I don't like about that is there's no redundancy for the first bolt, I suppose you could repeat what you did at A) on the second bolt as well, and don't do B) until you get to third bolt.

Anyway just curious as to what others have come up with for this, so far I've only been doing those where I can build a nice ground anchor.

cheers

Not sure how much rope soloing experience you have, but having done a decent amount of it myself I've come to the conclusion that unless I'm going to go aid a big wall by myself it is easier and much more enjoyable to 1) find a partner 2) free solo something easy or 3) top rope solo. Roped soloing single pitch free climbs is more trouble than it's worth.

If you are dead set on leading a bolted climb the simplest way to do it is to clip a SINGLE locker into the first bolt and clip a figure eight into it, climb to the second bolt and clip another locker into that and clove hitch the rope in. It won't be easy to get them perfectly equalized for an upward pull, but it will be redundant if you take a fall above the 3rd bolt. Taking a fall before this will be a factor 2 onto a single bolt.

Not ideal, but then roped soloing isn't exactly ideal either.


fnfolen


Mar 31, 2013, 8:33 PM
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Registered: Jul 20, 2011
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Re: [vinnie83] lead rope soloing bolted climbs [In reply to]
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vinnie83 wrote:
the simplest way to do it is to clip a SINGLE locker into the first bolt and clip a figure eight into it, climb to the second bolt and clip another locker into that and clove hitch the rope in. It won't be easy to get them perfectly equalized for an upward pull, but it will be redundant if you take a fall above the 3rd bolt. Taking a fall before this will be a factor 2 onto a single bolt.

Not ideal, but then roped soloing isn't exactly ideal either.

thanks, yah, thought of clove but I've never really used a clove in a situation where it'd be pulled in the two opposite directions like that so to speak. Seems like alpine buttery fly, though more of a hassle to tie and equalize, would be more appropriate.

On the other hand rather fall on that clove than the alpine in a circumstance where you fail to get to the third bolt.

Ultimately i think either would be fine, cheers for the reply


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