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Can climb V3 boulder, can't climb 5.10a
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xliang23


Apr 2, 2013, 8:21 AM
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Can climb V3 boulder, can't climb 5.10a
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Hey guys,

I started indoor climbing about a month ago, with just top roping at the local gym. I decided to give bouldering a go today (2nd time), and I found out that I can very comfortably climb all V2 boulders, and up to V3 boulders as well (V3c if that makes sense to you).

I had a look at a conversion chart, and a couple of websites suggest (http://www.camp4.com/rock/index.php?newsid=148, http://www.mec.ca/AST/ContentPrimary/Learn/Climbing/IntroToClimbing/ClimbingGradeConversion.jsp) that a V3 is somewhere between a 5.11b and 5.12a.

However, when top roping, I can barely climb a 5.8/5.9 and have huge difficulties with 5.10a climbs.

Generally, what is wrong with me? I'm 5'10", 60kg/135lb and just converted from playing squash so I'm not particularly strong. (funnily enough squash and sports climbing are competing for olympics 2020!)

Would appreciate advice. Thanks

(This post was edited by xliang23 on Apr 2, 2013, 8:43 AM)


Kartessa


Apr 2, 2013, 8:29 AM
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Re: [xliang23] Can climb V3 boulder, can't climb 5.8 [In reply to]
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Its a lot easier to power through a couple of harder moves when you have no technique and are pretty lightweight.

It's just going to take time, but if you keep trying routes, you'll get some technique, build up endurance, and if you still boulder, you'll hopefully improve at both.


shotwell


Apr 2, 2013, 8:31 AM
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Re: [xliang23] Can climb V3 boulder, can't climb 5.8 [In reply to]
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xliang23 wrote:
Hey guys,

I started indoor climbing about a month ago, with just top roping at the local gym. I decided to give bouldering a go today (2nd time), and I found out that I can very comfortably climb all V2 boulders, and up to V3 boulders as well (V3c if that makes sense to you).

I had a look at a conversion chart, and a couple of websites suggest (http://www.camp4.com/rock/index.php?newsid=148, http://www.mec.ca/AST/ContentPrimary/Learn/Climbing/IntroToClimbing/ClimbingGradeConversion.jsp) that a V3 is somewhere between a 5.11b and 5.12a.

However, when top roping, I can barely climb a 5.8/5.9 and have huge difficulties with 5.10a climbs.

Generally, what is wrong with me? I'm 5'10", 60kg/135lb and just converted from playing squash so I'm not particularly strong. (funnily enough squash and sports climbing are competing for olympics 2020!)

Would appreciate advice. Thanks

Well, two things could be happening.

First, you could just be a better boulderer. Strange to say, but most gyms have a pretty distinctive 'style' difference between moves on boulder problems and moves on roped climbs. It may just make more sense to you. You could also be less scared bouldering, freeing your mind to try harder.

The second and more likely answer is that the boulder problems and routes in your gym don't actually correspond to their respective scales outside. This is so common you could practically call it universal. Gym climbs are typically graded by one or two people and outdoor climbs tend to be graded based on a consensus of many opinions.

What gym are you climbing at? Are the route setters available to ask questions of?


xliang23


Apr 2, 2013, 8:32 AM
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Re: [Kartessa] Can climb V3 boulder, can't climb 5.8 [In reply to]
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Very good point, thanks for the reply!


xliang23


Apr 2, 2013, 8:35 AM
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Re: [shotwell] Can climb V3 boulder, can't climb 5.8 [In reply to]
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shotwell wrote:

What gym are you climbing at? Are the route setters available to ask questions of?

Hey, thanks for your reply.

I'm climbing in Australia, so we use the Aussie system... which then has to be converted to Yosemite etc... In Sydney, we only have 3 climbing gyms, and they're all large and what I'd consider reputable.

I will definitely ask a route setter when I see them setting routes!

Also, I find that since the boulder problems are much shorter (on 3m walls), I'm not getting tired through the climb; but when I'm climbing a 12m 5.10a, I'm pumped and buggered half way through... could that be the difference too?


(This post was edited by xliang23 on Apr 2, 2013, 8:37 AM)


shotwell


Apr 2, 2013, 8:47 AM
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Re: [xliang23] Can climb V3 boulder, can't climb 5.8 [In reply to]
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xliang23 wrote:
shotwell wrote:

What gym are you climbing at? Are the route setters available to ask questions of?

Hey, thanks for your reply.

I'm climbing in Australia, so we use the Aussie system... which then has to be converted to Yosemite etc... In Sydney, we only have 3 climbing gyms, and they're all large and what I'd consider reputable.

I will definitely ask a route setter when I see them setting routes!

Also, I find that since the boulder problems are much shorter (on 3m walls), I'm not getting tired through the climb; but when I'm climbing a 12m 5.10a, I'm pumped and buggered half way through... could that be the difference too?

Yes, or any combination of problems. Try getting more weight on your feet and focus on gripping as lightly as possible when climbing longer climbs.


Syd


Apr 2, 2013, 4:25 PM
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Re: [xliang23] Can climb V3 boulder, can't climb 5.8 [In reply to]
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xliang23 wrote:
... In Sydney, we only have 3 climbing gyms, and they're all large and what I'd consider reputable.

Do a google. There's a lot more than 3.

I agree twith Kartessa:
In reply to:
Its a lot easier to power through a couple of harder moves when you have no technique and are pretty lightweight.


xliang23


Apr 3, 2013, 3:13 AM
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Re: [Syd] Can climb V3 boulder, can't climb 5.8 [In reply to]
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Syd wrote:
xliang23 wrote:
... In Sydney, we only have 3 climbing gyms, and they're all large and what I'd consider reputable.

Do a google. There's a lot more than 3.

I agree twith Kartessa:
In reply to:
Its a lot easier to power through a couple of harder moves when you have no technique and are pretty lightweight.

So there is climbfit in north sydney, the sydney indoor rock climbing brand in the inner west and inner city, and the edge centre in sydney west. I don't count universities with a couple of walls or a gym with two ropes a climbing gym.

With bouldering, I try to take them slow and be balanced for each move. I can't physically do half a chin up so I'm not sure about powering through a couple of moves... Though I am lightweight.


csproul


Apr 3, 2013, 7:18 AM
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Re: [xliang23] Can climb V3 boulder, can't climb 5.10a [In reply to]
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I doubt there many people around who can legitimately climb V3 and cannot climb 10a...it just doesn't add up. Either the bouldering is soft, or the routes are sandbagged. There might be some styles that don't translate, ie like a V3 boulderer not being able to do a 10a offwidth or something like that. In the rare cases where a V3 boulderer cannot climb your average 10a it almost certainly would be the result of a lack of endurance and they just can't make it to the end of the route but are clearly capable of doing every move.


(This post was edited by csproul on Apr 3, 2013, 7:18 AM)


xliang23


Apr 3, 2013, 7:38 AM
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Re: [csproul] Can climb V3 boulder, can't climb 5.10a [In reply to]
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Maybe I'm getting tired... I do OK on 8.5m walls but anything over 12m kills me.

Here is a video from a couple of weeks back... unfortunately this gym doesn't have graded climbs, though of the 5 categories (beginner, moderate, intermediate, hard, impressive) it's in the 2nd category. maybe a 5.6-5.7?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D1hx2zFsY48

What do you think?


lena_chita
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Apr 3, 2013, 8:37 AM
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Re: [xliang23] Can climb V3 boulder, can't climb 5.10a [In reply to]
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xliang23 wrote:
Maybe I'm getting tired... I do OK on 8.5m walls but anything over 12m kills me.

Here is a video from a couple of weeks back... unfortunately this gym doesn't have graded climbs, though of the 5 categories (beginner, moderate, intermediate, hard, impressive) it's in the 2nd category. maybe a 5.6-5.7?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D1hx2zFsY48

What do you think?


Hard to say from the video, but there are rarely 5.6 climbs with an overhang section in a gym. If you told me that the climb was rated 5.8 or 5.9, I wouldn't argue with you about it, it could very well be.

Otherwise, looks good. One piece of advice-- don't rush the moves. You are not doing speed climbing, there is no prize for getting to the top fast. Focus on placing your hands and feet deliberately, and not adjusting them a bunch of times.


xliang23


Apr 3, 2013, 8:48 AM
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Re: [lena_chita] Can climb V3 boulder, can't climb 5.10a [In reply to]
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Thanks for the advice... I get tired when I don't do it fast :(

But with bouldering, I try to take more care placing, and hopefully it translates soon to the wall :D


Kartessa


Apr 3, 2013, 11:47 AM
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Re: [xliang23] Can climb V3 boulder, can't climb 5.10a [In reply to]
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xliang23 wrote:
Thanks for the advice... I get tired when I don't do it fast :(

But with bouldering, I try to take more care placing, and hopefully it translates soon to the wall :D

Lack of endurance doesn't just fix itself, you need to actually work at it... Pay attention to what you're doing, take your time, and if you get tired, keep going until you fall.

Eventually you won't get tired as fast or at all.


Syd


Apr 3, 2013, 7:40 PM
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Re: [xliang23] Can climb V3 boulder, can't climb 5.8 [In reply to]
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xliang23 wrote:


So there is climbfit in north sydney, the sydney indoor rock climbing brand in the inner west and inner city, and the edge centre in sydney west. I don't count universities with a couple of walls or a gym with two ropes a climbing gym.

As I said, do a google to find more.


Tfinney110


Apr 4, 2013, 10:17 AM
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Re: [xliang23] Can climb V3 boulder, can't climb 5.10a [In reply to]
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I would recommend slowing down, no wonder you get burnt out so fast. Other then that just KEEP CLIMBING!!!

T


USnavy


Apr 5, 2013, 10:55 PM
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Re: [] Can climb V3 boulder, can't climb 5.8 [In reply to]
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Dont worry, you are not alone. I know guys who can boulder V10 but cannot climb 5.10+ sport. As you have quickly learned, there is a difference between bouldering and climbing.


papapetro


Apr 9, 2013, 1:08 AM
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Re: [xliang23] Can climb V3 boulder, can't climb 5.10a [In reply to]
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Strategize. Sometimes slow and deliberate works. Slow often means failure. Analyze the climb while in process. I climb outside 99% of the time and " know when to hold em know when to fold em" is key to all of my hardest sends. If your at at chill stance and you can see rougher terrain ahead, shake out breathe and plan your attack. Snails pace will kill you, especially on overhangs. Break the climb down into sections. Utilize rests and fire FAST through the stuff that needs to be fired fast. I'm not a especially good onsight climber but I can beat a climb down like a champ.


kiwiprincess


Apr 10, 2013, 9:33 PM
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Re: [xliang23] Can climb V3 boulder, can't climb 5.10a [In reply to]
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I can boulder some V5 but not much harder than 5 10.
3m vs 30m that's the problem. I can even hold my breath Bouldering but on a climb You run out of fuel fast making mistakes like that.

Try Training endurance by spending a while on the wall at a level you can climb ( backclimb even, or boulder traverses)
You need to Stay focussed mentally longer. Plan the climb into boulder problems between rests, Practice recovering on big holds/ rest positions

The hardest move on a Climb will be the same level but It wiill be harder due to the extra climbing. I don't think you need to worry


sackfulobadgers


Apr 15, 2013, 5:24 AM
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Re: [kiwiprincess] Can climb V3 boulder, can't climb 5.10a [In reply to]
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You're not confusing the bouldering grades at Climbfit with V grades are you? They don't actually use V grades there. Your not going too badly but you probably need to increase your hand strength by traversing and deadhangs etc. That climb you did is quite juggy and your flying through it so I assume you're struggling with other climbs with smaller holds? Just keep climbing, I wouldn't worry about what grades you can do after a month anyway.


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