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ecade


Apr 1, 2013, 1:20 PM
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Where to go, I really don't know, I really don't know where to go...
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Happy Monday,

the skinny:
I have a credit with Air Canada from a trip I couldn't make. My credit is for about $650. It must be used by December.

So that leaves really 1 option, I guess I have to go on a climbing trip, damn life sucks eh

I want to climb predominately trad if the place also has 5 star sport routes I'd award it some points too. I would ideally like a mix of easy multi-pithes upto 5.8 that have breathataking scenery balanced by harder, ideally pure crack climbs going up to 5.10. I don't want limestone so no rockies. I want bomber granite or beautiful windgate sandstone. I would like rock that I can trust that I could push myself on.

Ideally I'd like to go over Labour day or Thanksgiving. but prefer labour day if its not too hot, I guess if I want sandstone i have to go Canadian thanksgiving (October).

Places I've been thinking about, but I'm sure there are many others I've not considered.
Squamish
Moab
Zion
(No red rocks, done twice and will probably go again in December)

Input appreciated. If you can include routes of mention in the areas that would be great. Ideally a place I can camp and have cheap expenses so that this trip can be snuck into the 2013 budget.


Kartessa


Apr 1, 2013, 1:29 PM
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JOSHUA TREE!!!! W000Ooooo


jeepnphreak


Apr 1, 2013, 1:40 PM
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Kartessa wrote:
JOSHUA TREE!!!! W000Ooooo
Right now or in the late fall or eles it will 100*F at night.


Kartessa


Apr 1, 2013, 1:41 PM
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jeepnphreak wrote:
Kartessa wrote:
JOSHUA TREE!!!! W000Ooooo
Right now or in the late fall or eles it will 100*F at night.

Troo dat


Kartessa


Apr 1, 2013, 1:42 PM
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Re: [ecade] Where to go, I really don't know, I really don't know where to go... [In reply to]
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ecade wrote:
Happy Monday,

the skinny:
I have a credit with Air Canada from a trip I couldn't make. My credit is for about $650. It must be used by December.

So that leaves really 1 option, I guess I have to go on a climbing trip, damn life sucks eh

I want to climb predominately trad if the place also has 5 star sport routes I'd award it some points too. I would ideally like a mix of easy multi-pithes upto 5.8 that have breathataking scenery balanced by harder, ideally pure crack climbs going up to 5.10. I don't want limestone so no rockies. I want bomber granite or beautiful windgate sandstone. I would like rock that I can trust that I could push myself on.

Ideally I'd like to go over Labour day or Thanksgiving. but prefer labour day if its not too hot, I guess if I want sandstone i have to go Canadian thanksgiving (October).

Places I've been thinking about, but I'm sure there are many others I've not considered.
Squamish
Moab
Zion
(No red rocks, done twice and will probably go again in December)

Input appreciated. If you can include routes of mention in the areas that would be great. Ideally a place I can camp and have cheap expenses so that this trip can be snuck into the 2013 budget.

What's with people needing multi-pitch climbing? There are some awesome single-pitch places out there... just because Onterrible is a shit hole, doesnt mean the others are.


ecade


Apr 1, 2013, 1:57 PM
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Re: [Kartessa] Where to go, I really don't know, I really don't know where to go... [In reply to]
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Kartessa wrote:
What's with people needing multi-pitch climbing? There are some awesome single-pitch places out there... just because Onterrible is a shit hole, doesnt mean the others are.

Hey, lets not fully dis our home on native land.
She has some saving graces, and she's better than Nebraska (sorry nebraskans).
I like heights. And it makes climbing easy routes worthwhile. Besides its human nature to want what you don't have. We don't have multi pitch climbs and last I checked I'm human.


(This post was edited by ecade on Apr 1, 2013, 1:59 PM)


Kartessa


Apr 1, 2013, 2:33 PM
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I'm still standing by my recommendation of Joshua Tree.

Fan-freaking-tastic single-pitch climbing, some bolts (not many), solid rock, cheap camping, great culture, awesome rest-day activites, beautiful.


Kartessa


Apr 1, 2013, 2:38 PM
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Why not make a pilgrimage to Yosemite? Just do a day or two in the valley and mosey on over to Tuolumne, lots of big, easy climbs, inexpensive...


Kartessa


Apr 1, 2013, 2:38 PM
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Wyoming?


Kartessa


Apr 1, 2013, 2:39 PM
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I managed a flight to France last spring for $600 RT from Pearson... from there, train down to the south and get your climb on in the Gorges... it's all bolts though.


ecade


Apr 2, 2013, 5:10 AM
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Kartessa wrote:
Wyoming?

Devil's Tower is a dream for me, I love to stem.
Problem: no climbing partner of mine enjoys stemming

Yosemite seems great too, been working on my aid climbing. But when I think Yosemite, I get that scene from Wayne's World when they meet Alice cooper backstage in my, "we're not worthy..." One day, but still not ready to tackle big walls, she is the reason I dreamed this dream to begin with, but I'm not ready. I know she has more to offer, but I'm to narrow minded to see past my own dreams.

Thanks for the suggestions Kartessa!


granite_grrl


Apr 2, 2013, 5:43 AM
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ecade wrote:
Kartessa wrote:
Wyoming?

Devil's Tower is a dream for me, I love to stem.
Problem: no climbing partner of mine enjoys stemming

You need to find new partners.

Also, the Tower is for the most part a crack area (though there are face routes too). Sometimes you need to stem, sometimes you're cramming your feet into the crack. Depends on the route.


billl7


Apr 2, 2013, 6:21 AM
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ecade wrote:
Yosemite seems great too, been working on my aid climbing. But when I think Yosemite, I get that scene from Wayne's World when they meet Alice cooper backstage in my, "we're not worthy..." One day, but still not ready to tackle big walls, she is the reason I dreamed this dream to begin with, but I'm not ready. I know she has more to offer, but I'm to narrow minded to see past my own dreams.
... then just keep Tuolumne in the back of your mind ... was there last summer for a week. Lot's of multi-pitch and never really noticed anything that made me think of aid climbing. Of course, there is the other extreme in the area of protection ... that a Tuolumne 'R' may very well be an 'X'.

Bill L


Kartessa


Apr 2, 2013, 6:47 AM
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ecade wrote:
Kartessa wrote:
Wyoming?

Devil's Tower is a dream for me, I love to stem.
Problem: no climbing partner of mine enjoys stemming

Yosemite seems great too, been working on my aid climbing. But when I think Yosemite, I get that scene from Wayne's World when they meet Alice cooper backstage in my, "we're not worthy..." One day, but still not ready to tackle big walls, she is the reason I dreamed this dream to begin with, but I'm not ready. I know she has more to offer, but I'm to narrow minded to see past my own dreams.

Thanks for the suggestions Kartessa!

So damn picky. You're not going to find one perfect place where everything is multi-pitch, just your grade, just your skills, and appealing to your partner.

Zion has a lot of aid/big wall/hard shit,
Moab is freaking remote for a Canadian flying in... you're gonna spend a fortune on gas/car rental.
Squamish can be ass expensive if you dont book ridiculously early (It's $650 now), and want a car ($300 for 4 days).

No point offering more suggestions though, because in the end, you're going to find a problem with anything anyone else offers :p


ecade


Apr 2, 2013, 7:08 AM
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What about Tahquitz and Suicide Rocks?

Can anyone speak highly of her, she looks damn sexy.


(This post was edited by ecade on Apr 2, 2013, 7:14 AM)


ecade


Apr 2, 2013, 7:13 AM
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Kartessa wrote:
So damn picky.

No point offering more suggestions though, because in the end, you're going to find a problem with anything anyone else offers :p

Would you rather I was easy? What fun would there be in that :)


marc801


Apr 2, 2013, 7:41 AM
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ecade wrote:
Yosemite seems great too, been working on my aid climbing. But when I think Yosemite, I get that scene from Wayne's World when they meet Alice cooper backstage in my, "we're not worthy..." One day, but still not ready to tackle big walls, she is the reason I dreamed this dream to begin with, but I'm not ready. I know she has more to offer, but I'm to narrow minded to see past my own dreams.
That is so myopically narrow minded that it's laughable. Quit yer whining already. I didn't do a big wall until my 5th Yosemite trip. Lot's of climbers go to Yosemite and never do big walls. That's not the only climbing there.


Kartessa


Apr 2, 2013, 7:49 AM
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marc801 wrote:
ecade wrote:
Yosemite seems great too, been working on my aid climbing. But when I think Yosemite, I get that scene from Wayne's World when they meet Alice cooper backstage in my, "we're not worthy..." One day, but still not ready to tackle big walls, she is the reason I dreamed this dream to begin with, but I'm not ready. I know she has more to offer, but I'm to narrow minded to see past my own dreams.
That is so myopically narrow minded that it's laughable. Quit yer whining already. I didn't do a big wall until my 5th Yosemite trip. Lot's of climbers go to Yosemite and never do big walls. That's not the only climbing there.

Somebody climbs for glory Tongue


dagibbs


Apr 2, 2013, 8:40 PM
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ecade wrote:
Happy Monday,

the skinny:
I have a credit with Air Canada from a trip I couldn't make. My credit is for about $650. It must be used by December.

So that leaves really 1 option, I guess I have to go on a climbing trip, damn life sucks eh

I want to climb predominately trad if the place also has 5 star sport routes I'd award it some points too. I would ideally like a mix of easy multi-pithes upto 5.8 that have breathataking scenery balanced by harder, ideally pure crack climbs going up to 5.10. I don't want limestone so no rockies. I want bomber granite or beautiful windgate sandstone. I would like rock that I can trust that I could push myself on.

Ideally I'd like to go over Labour day or Thanksgiving. but prefer labour day if its not too hot, I guess if I want sandstone i have to go Canadian thanksgiving (October).

Places I've been thinking about, but I'm sure there are many others I've not considered.
Squamish
Moab
Zion
(No red rocks, done twice and will probably go again in December)

Input appreciated. If you can include routes of mention in the areas that would be great. Ideally a place I can camp and have cheap expenses so that this trip can be snuck into the 2013 budget.

Got a climbing partner for this trip, yet? :)

Flatirons in Colorado?

New Hampshire probably isn't far enough, unfortunately -- but Whitehorse and Cathedral Ledge provide some awesome multi-pitch trad (up to about 1100 ft) on solid granite, and you're not far from 5-star sport in Rumney. But, probably you could drive there more easily than fly, so doesn't use up that credit.


ecade


Apr 3, 2013, 5:50 AM
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marc801 wrote:
That is so myopically narrow minded that it's laughable. Quit yer whining already. I didn't do a big wall until my 5th Yosemite trip. Lot's of climbers go to Yosemite and never do big walls. That's not the only climbing there.

Sometimes a kick in the behind is needed to dislodge a head from the ass, so thanks.

Having looked more closely at Yosemite, I think a pilgrimage could be in order.

Found a ton of great easy multipitches. I found a few single pitches but could you advise any areas that lend themselves to cragging single pitch trad 5.9-10 good cracks with great pro?


(This post was edited by ecade on Apr 3, 2013, 6:01 AM)


ecade


Apr 3, 2013, 5:57 AM
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"dagibbs wrote:

Got a climbing partner for this trip, yet? :)

Flatirons in Colorado?

New Hampshire probably isn't far enough, unfortunately -- but Whitehorse and Cathedral Ledge provide some awesome multi-pitch trad (up to about 1100 ft) on solid granite, and you're not far from 5-star sport in Rumney. But, probably you could drive there more easily than fly, so doesn't use up that credit.

No partner and seems like my partners might not be interested. are you up for a trip to Yosemite? I was thinking Thursday August 29 - Monday September 2nd (Labour day weekend)
Air Canada has cheap flights to San Diego, drive time is roughly the same as LA but cheaper to fly to San Diego (at present its about 610 return on AC, direct flights both ways) and you avoid LA, its people and traffic (sorry LA'rs sure there are some great folks there but ya, you know).

We could meet up at Val David and Montagne D'argent and other places prior to climb.

I've been to Rumney and love it, its my favourite style of sport climbing, but you're right it wouldn't use the credit, Flat Irons look beautiful but "every thought that stung a knot in my mind, I might go insane if it couldn't be sprung..." and now, with my Myopic eyes, I can't see past the Valley and Meadow


(This post was edited by ecade on Apr 3, 2013, 5:59 AM)


Kartessa


Apr 3, 2013, 6:15 AM
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San Diego!?! Are you mad?

What about San Francisco? It's about 3.5 hours closer (At Least! Since you won't have to drive through LA) and I'm finding flights for your dates at $663 with Air Canada... You'll save at least $50 on gas and sanity.


ecade


Apr 3, 2013, 6:26 AM
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Kartessa wrote:
San Diego!?! Are you mad?

What about San Francisco? It's about 3.5 hours closer (At Least! Since you won't have to drive through LA) and I'm finding flights for your dates at $663 with Air Canada... You'll save at least $50 on gas and sanity.

Yup, that's a brain fart, I often mix'em up, and I'm spent some time in San Fran...Coffee, need that.

Kartessa, what would i do without you, well besides ending up in the wrong place and losing more marbles than i can afford.


Kartessa


Apr 3, 2013, 6:27 AM
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ecade wrote:
Kartessa wrote:
San Diego!?! Are you mad?

What about San Francisco? It's about 3.5 hours closer (At Least! Since you won't have to drive through LA) and I'm finding flights for your dates at $663 with Air Canada... You'll save at least $50 on gas and sanity.

Yup, that's a brain fart, I often mix'em up, and I'm spent some time in San Fran...Coffee, need that.

Kartessa, what would i do without you, well besides ending up in the wrong place and losing more marbles than i can afford.

I'm an asshole because I care


Kartessa


Apr 3, 2013, 6:35 AM
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Also: Do you really want to spend just the labor day weekend? It's going to be a zoo, there will be lineups and passing if you stick to the valley.

Don't forget to give yourself time for Tuolumne? I found it to be infinitely nicer than the valley, much quieter, way more routes, some exploring (longer approaches though)

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