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Rope Abrasion
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Libbster


Apr 4, 2013, 11:28 AM
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Registered: Oct 16, 2012
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Rope Abrasion
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At points where the rock rubs against the rope and causes abrasion I was thinking of placing strips of carpet there to prevent that. Good idea? Bad Idea?


redlude97


Apr 4, 2013, 11:31 AM
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Re: [Libbster] Rope Abrasion [In reply to]
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for toprope setups thats fine.


notapplicable


Apr 4, 2013, 4:24 PM
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Re: [Libbster] Rope Abrasion [In reply to]
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Good idea if multiple people will be top roping the same route. Some rock features can be really rough on a rope when the climber is being lowered.


swaghole


Apr 5, 2013, 4:39 AM
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Re: [Libbster] Rope Abrasion [In reply to]
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This might also help in your situation:
- if the rough spot is near the anchor, you can always try to extend your anchor so the rope doen't go over that section of rock.
- you can also try to redirect the rope using gear


Libbster


Apr 9, 2013, 5:48 AM
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Re: [swaghole] Rope Abrasion [In reply to]
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Thats a good idea as well. The only concern I had with the carpet idea was; while the carpet protects the rope from abrasion with the rock, what about heat friction with the rope and the carpet?


stefanw


Apr 9, 2013, 6:00 AM
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Re: [Libbster] Rope Abrasion [In reply to]
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The rope moves over the carpet, so it's not the same part of the rope that will get heated, so that's fine. The part of the carpet that gets heated is the same so the carpet can suffer, but I guess the carpet is expendable ...


Libbster


Apr 9, 2013, 6:05 AM
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Re: [stefanw] Rope Abrasion [In reply to]
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Ah I see what your saying, I didn't think about that.


knudenoggin


Apr 14, 2013, 11:39 AM
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Re: [Libbster] Rope Abrasion [In reply to]
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Libbster wrote:
Thats a good idea as well. The only concern I had with the carpet idea was; while the carpet protects the rope from abrasion with the rock, what about heat friction with the rope and the carpet?

I recall one study of various techniques vs. abrasion,
and the carpet via fricional heat was worse than w/o!
YMMV. As for diff.part of rope on carpet, ... huh?
--> same part, back'n'forth, load & recover.
But the testing done was probably like having mice
consume megadoses and seeing that that is bad;
i.e., you're likely to be doing much less rubbing.

*kN*


Syd


Apr 14, 2013, 8:32 PM
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Re: [Libbster] Rope Abrasion [In reply to]
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If you are top roping a fake lead may protect the rope under some circumstances. I had a friend who had a brand new rope cut through the sheath on one route on TR. A fake lead on the particular route would have avoided the problem. Doesn't always help but worth keeping in mind.


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