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DanielK


Mar 9, 2013, 10:48 AM
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Bouldering - questions
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Hi guys, I started bouldering indoors a couple of days ago and instantly fell for it. I've decided to buy some climbing shoes to replace the nike free running shoes I'm using at the moment. I'd like your experienced oppinions on such a beginners shoe :) Here are some cheap shoes I have my eyes on, which ones would you recommend?

* Rock Pillars Top Gun
* Scarpa Stix
* Scarpa Spectro
* Scarpa Booster (really cheap)
* Scarpa Margo (a bit expensive)
* Scarpa Force (a bit expensive)
* Rock Pillars Summit LU (a bit expensive)
* Rock Pillars Ozone QC (a bit expensive)


Also here is another question from me :)

The climbing wall I use at university has courses I1, I2, I3, I4 and F1. Are these numbers international ratings for difficulty, since It would be cool to know if I'm doing a beginners course or an intermediate. The coursecreator told me I3 was intermediate, but maybe there is a specific system you can share with me. I live in Denmark, if that helps. Here are some videos that show me complete the route (green):

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eSoif7ibldk

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UkMRvpejFn8

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PPi_wRR5IPE
Sideview of the wall (the I3 consists of green rocks): http://www.abekatten.nu/00026/00104/

Thanks in advance.


(This post was edited by DanielK on Mar 9, 2013, 11:12 AM)


DanielK


Mar 9, 2013, 11:00 PM
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Re: [DanielK] Bouldering - questions [In reply to]
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Since the shop I'm buying from only had my sizes in the Scarpa Force shoe and the Rock Pillars Summit LU, and because they both had the same prize of 87 USD, but the Scarpa Force was on sale from 140 USD, I went ahead and bought the Scarpa Force:



They had them in sizes 41,5 and 43,5, and since I got 43-43,5 I went ahead and bought the bigger size. If they don't fit, I'll buy the 41,5 instead and if they turn out to be too small, I'll go for the Rock Pillars Summit.


marc801


Mar 10, 2013, 8:52 AM
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Re: [DanielK] Bouldering - questions [In reply to]
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DanielK wrote:
Since the shop I'm buying from only had my sizes in the Scarpa Force shoe and the Rock Pillars Summit LU, and because they both had the same prize of 87 USD, but the Scarpa Force was on sale from 140 USD, I went ahead and bought the Scarpa Force:

[image]http://www.friluftsland.dk/image.php?imagetype=productimages&format=3&sku=24211010&variant=1&checkOnly=0[/image]

They had them in sizes 41,5 and 43,5, and since I got 43-43,5 I went ahead and bought the bigger size. If they don't fit, I'll buy the 41,5 instead and if they turn out to be too small, I'll go for the Rock Pillars Summit.
There are about 8000 "which shoes should I buy" threads on rc.com. *All* of them eventually contain the same advice: ignore brand and model, try them all on until you find one that fits. Fit should be like a tight glove or handshake, with no pockets. They should be firmly but not painfully tight. They will be smaller than your street shoe size - anywhere from a half size to two full sizes smaller - all depends on what numbers a manufacturer decides to write on the shoe.

A newbie should buy cheap shoes 'cause their footwork isn't sufficient to get any advantage from an expensive shoe and they're going to trash that first shoe pretty quickly. Chances are high that the 43.5 pair that you already bought are a size too big, but the 41.5 pair will probably be too small.

Stop buying shoes and try on a bunch first!!!


DanielK


Mar 10, 2013, 8:58 AM
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Re: [marc801] Bouldering - questions [In reply to]
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If there was a shop nearby that had climbing shoes for sale I would have tried them on there, but since there to my knowledge isn't, I have to deal with ordering and trying at home. Worst case, I can just keep returning them untill I get a pair that fits.


lena_chita
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Mar 11, 2013, 7:29 AM
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Re: [DanielK] Bouldering - questions [In reply to]
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Click here to read the answers to some common questions: FAQs


DanielK


Mar 11, 2013, 10:44 AM
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Got my questions answered by the coursecreator today concerning internation equivalents to the difficulty of the courses.

I3 = 5 b/c (?)
I4 = 6
F1 = 6
Pink = 7

So my goal is to climb a lvl 7 course :)


DanielK


Mar 14, 2013, 7:52 AM
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Received these at the post office today. Luckily they seem to be a tiny bit too small, so they tense the foot all the way around, especially the toes. But this is required right? And as far as I understand they will get a bit lose soon aswell.

Will try them in action tonight.


granite_grrl


Mar 14, 2013, 9:46 AM
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Re: [DanielK] Bouldering - questions [In reply to]
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DanielK wrote:


Received these at the post office today. Luckily they seem to be a tiny bit too small, so they tense the foot all the way around, especially the toes. But this is required right? And as far as I understand they will get a bit lose soon aswell.

Will try them in action tonight.
They are leather and should become more comfortable as you wear them (your foot will get used to them and they will strech a little).


Ruff_Dog


Apr 5, 2013, 1:26 PM
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Re: [marc801] Bouldering - questions [In reply to]
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marc801 wrote:
DanielK wrote:
Since the shop I'm buying from only had my sizes in the Scarpa Force shoe and the Rock Pillars Summit LU, and because they both had the same prize of 87 USD, but the Scarpa Force was on sale from 140 USD, I went ahead and bought the Scarpa Force:

[image]http://www.friluftsland.dk/image.php?imagetype=productimages&format=3&sku=24211010&variant=1&checkOnly=0[/image]

They had them in sizes 41,5 and 43,5, and since I got 43-43,5 I went ahead and bought the bigger size. If they don't fit, I'll buy the 41,5 instead and if they turn out to be too small, I'll go for the Rock Pillars Summit.
There are about 8000 "which shoes should I buy" threads on rc.com. *All* of them eventually contain the same advice: ignore brand and model, try them all on until you find one that fits. Fit should be like a tight glove or handshake, with no pockets. They should be firmly but not painfully tight. They will be smaller than your street shoe size - anywhere from a half size to two full sizes smaller - all depends on what numbers a manufacturer decides to write on the shoe.

A newbie should buy cheap shoes 'cause their footwork isn't sufficient to get any advantage from an expensive shoe and they're going to trash that first shoe pretty quickly. Chances are high that the 43.5 pair that you already bought are a size too big, but the 41.5 pair will probably be too small.

Stop buying shoes and try on a bunch first!!!

I can't agree with this enough. Yeah, I may be still a noob like yourself, but I've read that same advice again and again. And I wear Under Armour 10.5's for street shoes, and my foot is probably about 10. My climbing shoes? 8.5 by Mad Rock.


DanielK


Apr 5, 2013, 3:04 PM
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The shoes were very tight at first, but slighly expanded after some time to fit the foot and are now the pefect size.


Ruff_Dog


Apr 5, 2013, 7:48 PM
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Re: [DanielK] Bouldering - questions [In reply to]
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You got lucky then. Most shoes probably wouldn't..


shotwell


Apr 6, 2013, 9:31 AM
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Re: [Ruff_Dog] Bouldering - questions [In reply to]
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Ruff_Dog wrote:
You got lucky then. Most shoes probably wouldn't..

Any leather shoe will.


Ruff_Dog


Apr 6, 2013, 11:54 AM
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Is that so? Alright. Good to know! Thanks.


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