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treyr


Nov 22, 2001, 8:46 PM
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Registered: Nov 22, 2001
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I am learning to lead climb and I hav been thinking. What do I do if I cannot get to the anchors on a route?

TREYR


rocmonkey


Nov 23, 2001, 12:38 AM
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Registered: Mar 26, 2001
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Just like the Techie said...best way is to reppel if you left gear in there.

breathe stone
RoC


saltspringer


Nov 23, 2001, 2:21 AM
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Registered: Oct 12, 2001
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just make sure that the first leads you try are accessible from the top & then you can always lower-off the route...always back up the piece that you are lowering from & you'll have no worries


treyr


Nov 23, 2001, 8:05 AM
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I dont know how to rapell but I heard that you could take a biner and put it on a bolt and make a makeshift anchor to get down and grab your draws and u just leave those biners. Is that safe and will it work?


theooze


Nov 23, 2001, 8:36 AM
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Lowering off of a single bolt and biner is not an unusual practice, but it's scary. Once you've lowered for a bit and cleaned some of the draws below, you can see how you could easily hit the ground if the lowering point failed.

Sport climbers often carry "leaver biners", biners that are expendable for one reason or another, to leave and lower from.

But this violates the rule that you never trust your life to a single piece of gear!!! Especially if it's a trashed, non-locking biner. Still, people do.

Now listen up, bud, 'cuz this is what probably causes more accidents than anything else in sport climbing: If you lower from more than half your rope's length, and your belayer doesn't notice the other end of the rope coming up, it might slip right thru his belay device and you get dropped. This is a good reason to always make your belayer always tie in to the other end of the rope if there's any possibility that the route is more than twice your rope length. (This can happen when you lower from the top anchors as well, obviously.)

Learn to rappel before you start leading outside. There are good reasons why you might prefer to rap instead of having your belayer lower you.


jsm280


Nov 23, 2001, 11:28 AM
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You should hire a guide or find someone who has GREAT knowledge to show you the proper way to bail.
If possible take a couple of guys out and pratice on top rope and what I mean by that is set a top rope and have someone belay you from TR with lots of slack and at the same time have someone belay you on lead. Climb to a bolt where you are able to clip and then pratice as if you would need to be lowered from there. If done properly your backup is the TR and you and your partner will learn the right way (with a guide). Try all kinds of different ways, example: clip the bolt and get lowered 10 ft down and then climb back up and to swap the draw for a bail biner... ect... make sure you have someone who can really help and knows how to do it.

with that said.... do you know how to do a change over. you need to if you lead. that's what you do at the top of a lead climb when there is closed cold shunts, chains, or just a couple of hangers.

Climb safe.....


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