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Anyone ever use webbing nuts?
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UpToTheOzone


Apr 9, 2013, 2:44 PM
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Anyone ever use webbing nuts?
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In one of my first climbing books I a recall seeing a webbing tied with a figure 8 called "improvised jammed knot protection" where you would slot the knot in a crack and then clip the loop to use it as pro. Has anyone done this before? My mentor at the time told me that is something that you'd maybe start thinking about looking at after exhausting all other options and treat it as a body weight placement.

I've since gained much more experience and heard about the ethic in some foreign country where they don't allow metal in cracks and only jammed knot cords or webbing. I understand the concept, and actually used a prussik for this when I forgot my nuts 3/4 the way up a single pitch route.

So on to my question, does any have experience doing this? I've got a nice rack so I don't envision using this unless in an extremely unlikely circumstance, but what are your thoughts on the safety, and plausibility of using webbing or cord as a chalk? Any other circumstances where this might come up more frequently?


Kartessa


Apr 9, 2013, 3:23 PM
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Re: [UpToTheOzone] Anyone ever use webbing nuts? [In reply to]
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UpToTheOzone wrote:
In one of my first climbing books I a recall seeing a webbing tied with a figure 8 called "improvised jammed knot protection" where you would slot the knot in a crack and then clip the loop to use it as pro. Has anyone done this before? My mentor at the time told me that is something that you'd maybe start thinking about looking at after exhausting all other options and treat it as a body weight placement.

I've since gained much more experience and heard about the ethic in some foreign country where they don't allow metal in cracks and only jammed knot cords or webbing. I understand the concept, and actually used a prussik for this when I forgot my nuts 3/4 the way up a single pitch route.

So on to my question, does any have experience doing this? I've got a nice rack so I don't envision using this unless in an extremely unlikely circumstance, but what are your thoughts on the safety, and plausibility of using webbing or cord as a chalk? Any other circumstances where this might come up more frequently?

I tried using webbing/cord as a chalk, but it just didnt coat right.

As for a chock... its fine.


shockabuku


Apr 9, 2013, 6:29 PM
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This guy does:



JimTitt


Apr 9, 2013, 10:51 PM
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Standard practice in Elbe sandstone on both the German and Czeck sides of the border.
Tests of the various knots here;- http://www.joergbrutscher.homepage.t-online.de/knoten.htm in German.


sittingduck


Apr 9, 2013, 11:25 PM
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Inexpensive alpine rappell anchors:



meanandugly


Apr 10, 2013, 3:48 AM
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I love the occasions when I can make one, especially when I am with a new partner.


bearbreeder


Apr 10, 2013, 10:21 AM
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the more important point here i has anyone here FALLEN on em ...

i just might take a whipper or two this week to test em out Wink


acorneau


Apr 10, 2013, 6:29 PM
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sittingduck wrote:
Inexpensive alpine rappell anchors:

Now thats awfully stupid interesting.


milesenoell


Apr 11, 2013, 11:28 AM
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Not sure if it is really pertinent, but in answer to the initial question about "webbing nuts", no, I have never heard of anyone using webbing for chocked pro. Rope knots and monkey fists sure, but webbing never. I'd assume it is because webbing is slick and the knots tend to move more than with cordage.


JimTitt


Apr 11, 2013, 12:18 PM
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milesenoell wrote:
Not sure if it is really pertinent, but in answer to the initial question about "webbing nuts", no, I have never heard of anyone using webbing for chocked pro. Rope knots and monkey fists sure, but webbing never. I'd assume it is because webbing is slick and the knots tend to move more than with cordage.

Webbing is absolutely normal in Saxony, the website I listed above has strength tests of various types and knots.
You can buy webbing chocks commercially as well:-


Orbworks UFO, the middle sized one. The centre lump is pulled down to expand the whole thing. They work as well (reputedly)!
Attachments: UFO.jpg (42.9 KB)


Partner cracklover


Apr 11, 2013, 1:53 PM
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JimTitt wrote:
milesenoell wrote:
Not sure if it is really pertinent, but in answer to the initial question about "webbing nuts", no, I have never heard of anyone using webbing for chocked pro. Rope knots and monkey fists sure, but webbing never. I'd assume it is because webbing is slick and the knots tend to move more than with cordage.

Webbing is absolutely normal in Saxony, the website I listed above has strength tests of various types and knots.
You can buy webbing chocks commercially as well:-


Orbworks UFO, the middle sized one. The centre lump is pulled down to expand the whole thing. They work as well (reputedly)!

LOL - it's a webbing-based cam!

GO


milesenoell


Apr 11, 2013, 2:15 PM
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Neat.


JimTitt


Apr 12, 2013, 1:11 AM
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I typed the name wrongly, the manufacturer is OBRWORKS not Orbworks.
http://www.obrworks.cz
My brother is up there climbing in a few weeks, we shall get one and pull-test it in some cracks for the entertainment!


sbaclimber


Apr 12, 2013, 3:58 AM
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JimTitt wrote:
we shall get one and pull-test it in some cracks for the entertainment!
I would love to see it in action!


(This post was edited by sbaclimber on Apr 12, 2013, 3:59 AM)


JimTitt


Apr 12, 2013, 10:33 AM
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Naturally it would be even better to video it catching someone taking an enormous whipper, what are you up to next weekend?


Kartessa


Apr 12, 2013, 10:35 AM
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JimTitt wrote:
Naturally it would be even better to video it catching someone taking an enormous whipper, what are you up to next weekend?

Post or it never happened


bearbreeder


Apr 12, 2013, 10:41 AM
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if you send me some ill whip on em ...

hell i may just whip on a knot this coming week if i do trad rather than sport weeniesm ...

whippity doo dah ... whippity day ... my oh my whuddah wundaful whipping day Wink


sbaclimber


Apr 12, 2013, 11:01 AM
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JimTitt wrote:
Naturally it would be even better to video it catching someone taking an enormous whipper, what are you up to next weekend?
Oh, um, ah......I think the inlaws are visiting that weekend...BlushAngelic.
(actually, they are, but even if they weren't, as you know, I am too chickenshit to take a whipper of any sort, regardless of protection type....)
It would still be cool to see though. Wink


gunkiemike


Apr 15, 2013, 3:18 PM
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Sure. Used a Fig 8 in a sling less than a week ago as a directional. Didn't whip on it but the placement was textbook perfect.


sittingduck


Apr 15, 2013, 10:14 PM
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Knot on the climbing rope as pro when out of gear


majid_sabet


Apr 16, 2013, 12:24 PM
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UpToTheOzone wrote:
In one of my first climbing books I a recall seeing a webbing tied with a figure 8 called "improvised jammed knot protection" where you would slot the knot in a crack and then clip the loop to use it as pro. Has anyone done this before? My mentor at the time told me that is something that you'd maybe start thinking about looking at after exhausting all other options and treat it as a body weight placement.

I've since gained much more experience and heard about the ethic in some foreign country where they don't allow metal in cracks and only jammed knot cords or webbing. I understand the concept, and actually used a prussik for this when I forgot my nuts 3/4 the way up a single pitch route.

So on to my question, does any have experience doing this? I've got a nice rack so I don't envision using this unless in an extremely unlikely circumstance, but what are your thoughts on the safety, and plausibility of using webbing or cord as a chalk? Any other circumstances where this might come up more frequently?

its also called Jesus knot or SOL knot and the best story I have is when a climber on el cap goes off route and realizes that the correct route was to his left while he was 20-30 feet to the right so instead of using a $5 cheap escape stopper nut, he takes a piece of1" webbing and puts a big fat knot at the end and Jammed it in the thin crack and ask his belayer to lower him down so he could swing to the left and continue his climb but about 25 feet down "BANG" a knot flies out of the crack like a bullet and there he goes 75+ feet of FF2 passing blayer and bang his head and shoulder to the wall. His rescue project off the wall is another story so why in other countries you see this knot very often ?

its due to economic reasons where poor climbers can't effort of leaving gear on the rock and very often seen in Asia, old Soviet, Eastern Europe ME etc.

Don't use this knot unless you have nothing else to save your neck.


JimTitt


Apr 17, 2013, 10:33 AM
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Re: [majid_sabet] Anyone ever use webbing nuts? [In reply to]
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You mean you know of an incompetent climber who couldnīt even find the way and didnīt know a basic technique widely taught and used before you were born.
No wonder the best rock climber in the world comes from Czechoslovakia:-)


majid_sabet


Apr 17, 2013, 11:21 AM
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JimTitt wrote:
You mean you know of an incompetent climber who couldnīt even find the way and didnīt know a basic technique widely taught and used before you were born.
No wonder the best rock climber in the world comes from Czechoslovakia:-)

Czech traditionally have good mountaineers but I do not personally call them the best rock climbers since most top rock climbers are born in the US and in between Colorado Rockies, Yosemite valley and Chamonix , I haven't heard of a good climbs in Czech republic.


shotwell


Apr 17, 2013, 12:10 PM
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majid_sabet wrote:
JimTitt wrote:
You mean you know of an incompetent climber who couldnīt even find the way and didnīt know a basic technique widely taught and used before you were born.
No wonder the best rock climber in the world comes from Czechoslovakia:-)

Czech traditionally have good mountaineers but I do not personally call them the best rock climbers since most top rock climbers are born in the US and in between Colorado Rockies, Yosemite valley and Chamonix , I haven't heard of a good climbs in Czech republic.

Adam. Fucking. Ondra.


majid_sabet


Apr 17, 2013, 12:33 PM
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shotwell wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:
JimTitt wrote:
You mean you know of an incompetent climber who couldnīt even find the way and didnīt know a basic technique widely taught and used before you were born.
No wonder the best rock climber in the world comes from Czechoslovakia:-)

Czech traditionally have good mountaineers but I do not personally call them the best rock climbers since most top rock climbers are born in the US and in between Colorado Rockies, Yosemite valley and Chamonix , I haven't heard of a good climbs in Czech republic.





Adam. Fucking. Ondra.

well, I see no yosemite valley climb on his resume so I'll put my money on Alex for time been.

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