In one of my first climbing books I a recall seeing a webbing tied with a figure 8 called "improvised jammed knot protection" where you would slot the knot in a crack and then clip the loop to use it as pro. Has anyone done this before? My mentor at the time told me that is something that you'd maybe start thinking about looking at after exhausting all other options and treat it as a body weight placement.

I've since gained much more experience and heard about the ethic in some foreign country where they don't allow metal in cracks and only jammed knot cords or webbing. I understand the concept, and actually used a prussik for this when I forgot my nuts 3/4 the way up a single pitch route.

So on to my question, does any have experience doing this? I've got a nice rack so I don't envision using this unless in an extremely unlikely circumstance, but what are your thoughts on the safety, and plausibility of using webbing or cord as a chalk? Any other circumstances where this might come up more frequently?

Inexpensive alpine rappell anchors:

Not sure if it is really pertinent, but in answer to the initial question about "webbing nuts", no, I have never heard of anyone using webbing for chocked pro. Rope knots and monkey fists sure, but webbing never. I'd assume it is because webbing is slick and the knots tend to move more than with cordage.

Webbing is absolutely normal in Saxony, the website I listed above has strength tests of various types and knots.
You can buy webbing chocks commercially as well:-


Orbworks UFO, the middle sized one. The centre lump is pulled down to expand the whole thing. They work as well (reputedly)!

we shall get one and pull-test it in some cracks for the entertainment!

Naturally it would be even better to video it catching someone taking an enormous whipper, what are you up to next weekend?

Naturally it would be even better to video it catching someone taking an enormous whipper, what are you up to next weekend?

In one of my first climbing books I a recall seeing a webbing tied with a figure 8 called "improvised jammed knot protection" where you would slot the knot in a crack and then clip the loop to use it as pro. Has anyone done this before? My mentor at the time told me that is something that you'd maybe start thinking about looking at after exhausting all other options and treat it as a body weight placement.

I've since gained much more experience and heard about the ethic in some foreign country where they don't allow metal in cracks and only jammed knot cords or webbing. I understand the concept, and actually used a prussik for this when I forgot my nuts 3/4 the way up a single pitch route.

So on to my question, does any have experience doing this? I've got a nice rack so I don't envision using this unless in an extremely unlikely circumstance, but what are your thoughts on the safety, and plausibility of using webbing or cord as a chalk? Any other circumstances where this might come up more frequently?

You mean you know of an incompetent climber who couldn´t even find the way and didn´t know a basic technique widely taught and used before you were born.
No wonder the best rock climber in the world comes from Czechoslovakia:-)

Czech traditionally have good mountaineers but I do not personally call them the best rock climbers since most top rock climbers are born in the US and in between Colorado Rockies, Yosemite valley and Chamonix , I haven't heard of a good climbs in Czech republic.

Adam. Fucking. Ondra.