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Finger laceration and its impact on climbing
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agnivsen


Apr 23, 2013, 9:57 AM
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Finger laceration and its impact on climbing
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I got a deep cut on the outer edge of my left ring finger knuckle. On the outside. Injured area marked with red in the attachment.



I consulted a doc and he said tendons were not severed or torn, but might have been partially bruised. I can move the finger, but only within a small range. Wrist movement is also constrained. Got two stitches on the cut (wound not from climbing, a glass fragment got me). Doc says most of the power will come back as the wound heals, but couldn't assure me about full range of movement like before. Thankfully, I can curl/flex my finger with sufficient power. It's the extension part that hurts.

I'm pretty worried about climbing post this injury. I was really starting to build up momentum with my practice and I was going strong with my finger strength. But with this injury, I'm really not sure if I could ever get back to where I was three days back.

I'd like to know if anyone had similar injuries and how long did it take for them to get back to regular climbing. Can a partially bruised/damaged tendon ever regain lost strength? Please let me know your opinion about this.
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agnivsen


May 4, 2013, 12:45 PM
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Re: [agnivsen] Finger laceration and its impact on climbing [In reply to]
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The injured finger is much better now. Though far from 'normal', it seems like whatever damages my tendon sustained are fixing itself up pretty rapidly.

10 degree extension lag of metacarpophalangeal joint is now down to 1/2 degrees and still improving. I'm definitely not going for surgeries. Stiffness remains in the knuckles, but its quite understandable. Hope I'll get back to climbing soon.

Thanks.


sonso45


May 4, 2013, 1:25 PM
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I crushed my finger/knuckle on middle finger right hand about a year ago. It has been swollen since then. I iced it, wrapped it and stopped using it for a couple weeks or so.

It is still a bit swollen and stiff but I've used it since. I think that if you continue to ease into climbing with your damaged tendon, you'll be fine. Until you get old then you will have arthritis, as do most folks.


onceahardman


May 5, 2013, 7:28 AM
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Re: [agnivsen] Finger laceration and its impact on climbing [In reply to]
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Glad to hear you are on the mend.

Did you do any kind of therapeutic exercises to help your recovery., or did you go with straight rest? I'm sure I'm not the only one who would benefit from your information on a successful recovery.

Keep doing whatever you are doing, but let people know, so others can benefit.


agnivsen


May 5, 2013, 9:36 AM
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I was prescribed a sodium hyaluronate tablet by doc, nothing apart from that.

There's something I noticed... for the first few days following the surgical suturing, I was a bit careful with my hand, often going without much finger movement for hours. That wasn't helping at all. Infact, that lead to an increased stiffness of the knuckle which got me all worried.

But then I started freeing up my fingers. I forced it into movement and even tried hanging on some jug holds for a while (that wasn't very comfortable though Tongue). Movement hurts a bit, but it is steadily improving the overall flexibility of the finger. Stretching it towards the direction of injury is helping a lot.

Last time I called, the orthopedic also encouraged normal finger movement. I guess I'm on the right track now. I'm sure I was pretty lucky to have been spared the torments of a completely severed tendon.


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