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nashleung


Apr 22, 2013, 1:32 AM
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beginner for big wall climbing El Capitan and half dome
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hi friend, i am a guys form Hong Kong, and i plan go to south american for a trip on coming Nov-13, you know i come from another side of earth, so i hope can be finish my climbing dream on this time on the trip.

My age of climb is about 4 year, and level around 6C and just a boulder and training wall, however i wanna climb up the big wall, and sleep between the wall 1 night, that is my dream of climbing life.

any one can suggest which wall is better for my virgin big wall climb?, (north or south american), now i look forward to El Capitan & half dome, but i don't know using the nuts or friend too much(in hong kong all nature wall has bolt already)
may i ask half dome is it good for me? there has a bolt on the route already? and if i really go to... where can i find the partner climb with me in US?

hope can has a friend give me a suggestion, and teach me how can i do ...thx Wink


(This post was edited by nashleung on Apr 22, 2013, 2:41 AM)


Kartessa


Apr 22, 2013, 3:23 AM
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Re: [nashleung] beginner for big wall climbing El Capitan and half dome [In reply to]
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nashleung wrote:
hi friend, i am a guys form Hong Kong, and i plan go to south american for a trip on coming Nov-13, you know i come from another side of earth, so i hope can be finish my climbing dream on this time on the trip.

My age of climb is about 4 year, and level around 6C and just a boulder and training wall, however i wanna climb up the big wall, and sleep between the wall 1 night, that is my dream of climbing life.

any one can suggest which wall is better for my virgin big wall climb?, (north or south american), now i look forward to El Capitan & half dome, but i don't know using the nuts or friend too much(in hong kong all nature wall has bolt already)
may i ask half dome is it good for me? there has a bolt on the route already? and if i really go to... where can i find the partner climb with me in US?

hope can has a friend give me a suggestion, and teach me how can i do ...thx Wink

Oh dear lord... Best start learning everything now.

The only way I can foresee you getting up any big wall is if you quit your job or your education, and start working on pretty much EVERYTHING now... and even still you'll probably need to hire a guide.

Aiding on a big wall ( at 6c, you won't be freeing the climbs you mentioned) is serious business, this is something people work up to for years, even decades - and you're hoping to get there in 6 months with absolutely no base of knowledge or experience to begin with.

Good luck.


Kartessa


Apr 22, 2013, 3:24 AM
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Re: [Kartessa] beginner for big wall climbing El Capitan and half dome [In reply to]
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Kartessa wrote:
nashleung wrote:
hi friend, i am a guys form Hong Kong, and i plan go to south american for a trip on coming Nov-13, you know i come from another side of earth, so i hope can be finish my climbing dream on this time on the trip.

My age of climb is about 4 year, and level around 6C and just a boulder and training wall, however i wanna climb up the big wall, and sleep between the wall 1 night, that is my dream of climbing life.

any one can suggest which wall is better for my virgin big wall climb?, (north or south american), now i look forward to El Capitan & half dome, but i don't know using the nuts or friend too much(in hong kong all nature wall has bolt already)
may i ask half dome is it good for me? there has a bolt on the route already? and if i really go to... where can i find the partner climb with me in US?

hope can has a friend give me a suggestion, and teach me how can i do ...thx Wink

Oh dear lord...

The only way I can foresee you getting up any big wall is if you quit your job or your education, and start working on pretty much EVERYTHING now... and even still you'll probably need to hire a guide.

Aiding on a big wall ( at 6c, you won't be freeing the climbs you mentioned) is serious business, this is something people work up to for years, even decades - and you're hoping to get there in 6 months with absolutely no base of knowledge or experience to begin with.

Good luck.


david_g48


Apr 22, 2013, 6:15 AM
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Re: [Kartessa] beginner for big wall climbing El Capitan and half dome [In reply to]
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What scale are you using? Could be you are a 5.11B climber or a 5.13B climber on the US YDS scale depending on what scale you were referencing in your initial post.


Kartessa


Apr 22, 2013, 6:38 AM
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Re: [david_g48] beginner for big wall climbing El Capitan and half dome [In reply to]
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david_g48 wrote:
What scale are you using? Could be you are a 5.11B climber or a 5.13B climber on the US YDS scale depending on what scale you were referencing in your initial post.

Ha! I CT'd my post!

Well he's a boulderer, I'm gonna assume that 6c equals V5, and I'm pretty sure this means he's not going to be freeing a 5.12 (Regular North West Face on Halfdome), 5.14a (The Nose), or 5.13b (Salathe).

Even in the off chance he was refering to a rarely-used british grade, 2000-3000 feet of climbing doesn't seem very boulderer-ish. When was the last time you saw a boulderer do a 200ft route without whining about pump?

And don't forget the "i don't know using the nuts or friend too much" - he's either gonna need some gear or a guide... unless he think's he's Honnold, in which case, he just needs a mop.


david_g48


Apr 22, 2013, 6:54 AM
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Re: [Kartessa] beginner for big wall climbing El Capitan and half dome [In reply to]
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Did not the Osbourne boy climb a big wall (LOL)?? He was only a 5.10 climber. With the right guides and pulley system its all good.
Yes, Kartessa a guide with the known skill set for the climbs would be a good investment for Nasleung's dream climb or it could turn into a nightmare.


(This post was edited by david_g48 on Apr 22, 2013, 6:56 AM)


csproul


Apr 22, 2013, 6:58 AM
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Re: [nashleung] beginner for big wall climbing El Capitan and half dome [In reply to]
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Yeah, at 6c, he could easily free climb most all of the RNWF. Assuming he can climb cracks and chimneys, that is. It is mostly below 5.11. He would obviously have to aid some of the pitches.

Now, "don't know using nuts or friend too much" is going to be a huge problem! There are many bolted belays on the route, lots of fixed gear, and even a couple of bolt ladders too, but you'll still need to place all your own gear!


(This post was edited by csproul on Apr 22, 2013, 7:00 AM)


marc801


Apr 22, 2013, 10:17 AM
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Re: [csproul] beginner for big wall climbing El Capitan and half dome [In reply to]
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csproul wrote:
Now, "don't know using nuts or friend too much" is going to be a huge problem! There are many bolted belays on the route, lots of fixed gear, and even a couple of bolt ladders too, but you'll still need to place all your own gear!
Due to its size and approach logistics, Half Dome is generally not a good choice for a first wall. Neither is El Cap for that matter (despite the number of relatively unskilled parties that manage it - but there's a huge failure rate as well that few discuss).

The OP has so many basic skills to learn and so much gear to acquire that his suggested time frame is pretty unrealistic.


zchandran


Apr 22, 2013, 10:50 AM
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Re: [nashleung] beginner for big wall climbing El Capitan and half dome [In reply to]
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You just need to contact the Yosemite Mountaineering School and Guide Service and let them take it from there. Per their website, they currently charge $4466 for a 6 day climb of El Cap. You will need some experience, but nowhere near what is needed without a guide.

The guide will tell you exactly what to bring. I've worked with them before, they are about the most professional people on the planet.


donnie


Apr 22, 2013, 11:10 AM
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Re: [nashleung] beginner for big wall climbing El Capitan and half dome [In reply to]
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*gulp*...that boy's ambitious...it's good to have dreams and get out there and try them, but you better get out there and prepare big time! Good Luck!!!


majid_sabet


Apr 22, 2013, 12:56 PM
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Re: [nashleung] beginner for big wall climbing El Capitan and half dome [In reply to]
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nashleung wrote:
hi friend, i am a guys form Hong Kong, and i plan go to south american for a trip on coming Nov-13, you know i come from another side of earth, so i hope can be finish my climbing dream on this time on the trip.

My age of climb is about 4 year, and level around 6C and just a boulder and training wall, however i wanna climb up the big wall, and sleep between the wall 1 night, that is my dream of climbing life.

any one can suggest which wall is better for my virgin big wall climb?, (north or south american), now i look forward to El Capitan & half dome, but i don't know using the nuts or friend too much(in hong kong all nature wall has bolt already)
may i ask half dome is it good for me? there has a bolt on the route already? and if i really go to... where can i find the partner climb with me in US?

hope can has a friend give me a suggestion, and teach me how can i do ...thx Wink

most virgin climbers when they see how big el cap is for the first time, its like a virgin girl see a big dic* for the first time.













They run for their lives


skelldify


Apr 22, 2013, 3:18 PM
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Re: [nashleung] beginner for big wall climbing El Capitan and half dome [In reply to]
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If you had any idea what you are asking, you'd know how ridiculous it sounds.

Since you clearly have no idea what you're asking, I'll give you an analogy.

What you're asking is like saying "I'm okay at flying an airplane using a flight simulator. Do you think I can fly a space shuttle to the moon in 6 months? "


(This post was edited by skelldify on Apr 22, 2013, 3:24 PM)


brinosaur


Apr 22, 2013, 8:58 PM
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Re: [skelldify] beginner for big wall climbing El Capitan and half dome [In reply to]
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What's the meme again? Obvious... something... is obvious.
Or something like that.

The busted spelling and funky grammar of the original post are nothing like badly Sinicized English (aka, Chinglish). If you're going to engage in ethnic stereotyping, at least do it properly.

Also, they use the UK grading system, not French,in Hong Kong. If someone is climbing UK 6c, why on earth would they post such a question? That, and there's plenty of gear climbing in HK -- not everything's been bolted, etc etc.


(This post was edited by brinosaur on Apr 22, 2013, 9:02 PM)


nashleung


Apr 23, 2013, 1:04 AM
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Re: [brinosaur] beginner for big wall climbing El Capitan and half dome [In reply to]
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hi too all friend, i think my post made some shaking to all you guy, sorry about that, maybe my question is too foolen or i not mention it too much. let me explain more detail.

i check in the convert list, that i should be has 5.13a~b YDS,

and in Hong kong, i has try the muilt-patch at hill about 80m high, but the hill already has bolt on the route, so we never using the nut and friend at all.

and i have half of year to prepare my gear and skill when i decide go to finish my dream.

let me using the point form to ask some question:

1. the El Cap and half dome is it more high level then me so much? because i cant find the route grade on this 2 wall, so i have no idea on that, i mean if that at least 5.14 level, then i have give up this time. and find other hill.

2. how many gear has to using if i wanna to finish the line?, in hong kong, when i decide go to climbing server wall, i have friend tell me how many quick draw you need how long of rope, what belay device to bring etc,
but i really have no idea that if i wanna to climb on, how many gear i should bring.

3. i think i will not join the climbing school, sorry about that that is too expensive to me, in my foolen concept, i hope to find one boulder training or some group in LA or San francisco, that i can contact, and ask may i join to climbing of half dome when u to go.

really thanks all you guy answer my question, i will hear all the advise, as i really have no idea on this 2 dreaming wall , thanks again Wink


(This post was edited by nashleung on Apr 23, 2013, 1:08 AM)


Kartessa


Apr 23, 2013, 3:51 AM
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Re: [nashleung] beginner for big wall climbing El Capitan and half dome [In reply to]
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nashleung wrote:
hi too all friend, i think my post made some shaking to all you guy, sorry about that, maybe my question is too foolen or i not mention it too much. let me explain more detail.

i check in the convert list, that i should be has 5.13a~b YDS,

and in Hong kong, i has try the muilt-patch at hill about 80m high, but the hill already has bolt on the route, so we never using the nut and friend at all.

and i have half of year to prepare my gear and skill when i decide go to finish my dream.

let me using the point form to ask some question:

1. the El Cap and half dome is it more high level then me so much? because i cant find the route grade on this 2 wall, so i have no idea on that, i mean if that at least 5.14 level, then i have give up this time. and find other hill.

2. how many gear has to using if i wanna to finish the line?, in hong kong, when i decide go to climbing server wall, i have friend tell me how many quick draw you need how long of rope, what belay device to bring etc,
but i really have no idea that if i wanna to climb on, how many gear i should bring.

3. i think i will not join the climbing school, sorry about that that is too expensive to me, in my foolen concept, i hope to find one boulder training or some group in LA or San francisco, that i can contact, and ask may i join to climbing of half dome when u to go.

really thanks all you guy answer my question, i will hear all the advise, as i really have no idea on this 2 dreaming wall , thanks again Wink

Yer phuked


marc801


Apr 23, 2013, 8:06 AM
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Re: [nashleung] beginner for big wall climbing El Capitan and half dome [In reply to]
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Stop. Enough already. Before asking any other basic beginner questions, buy this book and read it from cover to cover. Then read it again. http://www.supertopo.com/packs/howtobigwall.html

nashleung wrote:
...but the hill already has bolt on the route, so we never using the nut and friend at all.
That is a major impediment, and it's going to take you longer than 6 months on an 80m cliff to learn how to use them safely and efficiently for 10 or more pitches per day. It's sometimes not the difficulty of the route that stops people, but the sheer amount of work and the unrelenting nature of it. Excessive time spent on belay change-overs and hauling screw-ups stop more parties than technical difficulty.

nashleung wrote:
and i have half of year to prepare my gear and skill when i decide go to finish my dream.
That's probably not enough unless you're willing to learn and practice many days per week. Have you done any aid climbing and set up hauling systems? Do you know about lowering out, either you or the bags? Do you know how to construct a 2:1 hauling system off of any anchors? Are you aware that a party of 2 for 3 days can easily have 50kg. of stuff to haul? Do you know how to build a safe, bomb-proof anchor entirely out of nuts and cams? What do you do with your human waste on the wall?

The big problem here is that you're using questions on an internet forum to substitute for basic instruction and research. You need to learn from someone who knows what they are doing - not from questions on the net.



nashleung wrote:
2. how many gear has to using if i wanna to finish the line?, in hong kong, when i decide go to climbing server wall, i have friend tell me how many quick draw you need how long of rope, what belay device to bring etc,
but i really have no idea that if i wanna to climb on, how many gear i should bring.
Again, you can find this out with some research instead of asking questions. If you're not doing that research, you really have no business even considering this. If you're asking this most basic of questions only 6 months out, you are absolutely not ready.

Well, there's this list for starters, but remember that:
1. it's not route specific - some routes may require more, others less
2. how much you intend to do free vs aid will have an impact
3. there are other considerations that will alter the list - eg: attempting Half Dome Regular Route in a day - but you don't have the necessary skills or knowledge yet to even think you can manage that.

From: http://www.supertopo.com/...ar-List/a10980n.html

In reply to:
Rack for all clean routes (Example: The Nose)
Nuts:
1 set DMM Offset Nuts or ABC Huevos (BB)
1 set DMM Peenuts
1-2 sets DMM Brass Offsets
Cams:
1-2 sets Metolius Master Cams (#00-4) or Aliens
1 set Metolius Offset Master Cams (optional) (#00-4)
2 sets Black Diamond Camalot C4s to (#0.5-4)
1-2 ea Moses Cam Hook
- 1 or 2 ea of the two smallest Totem Cams
Ropes: 1 60m or 70m x 10.2mm and one 60m x 9mm static haul rope (8mm if traveling light, 10mm if hauling massive loads).
Quickdraws: 12 CAMP Photon Wire Straight quickdraw or CAMP Nano 23 Quickdraw to go ultralight
Carabiners: 50 extra Camp Photon Wire Straight or Mad Rock Ultra-Light Straight (BB) or CAMP Nano 23 to go ultralight
Locking Carabiners: 5 Petzl Attache 3D or Black Diamond Rocklock (BB)
Slings: 15 Mammut Contact Dyneema and a few 9/16" runners in case you need to leave them at rappels
Cordelette: Mammut Pro Cord
Harness: Arcteryx B360 or CAMP Quartz CR3 or Black Diamond Momentum (BB)
Belay Device: Petzl Reverso 4
Climbing Shoes: La Sportiva TC Pro or Mad Rock Flash (BB)
Helmet: Petzl Meteor III helmet or Petzl Elios
Metolius Adjustable Gear Sling
Nut Tool: Metolius Torque
Hauling Device: Petzl Micro Traxion for loads smaller than 80lb or Petzl Pro Traxion for loads 80-160lb
Ascenders: Petzl Ascension
Aiders: Petzl Wall Step Etrier
Daisy Chains: Metolius Monster Daisy Chain or Metolius Nylon Daisy Chain (BB)
Black Diamond Fifi hook
Approach Shoes: La Sportiva Ganda or Five Ten Camp Four or Five Ten Guide Tennie or Evolv Bolt
Haul Bag: Metolius Half Dome Haul Bag or Metolius El Capitan Haul Bag
Gloves: Black Diamond Stone Glove or Homemade Fingerless Climbing Glove (BB) or Black Diamond Transition Glove (for cleaning only)

Then there's all that other stuff, plus food and water:
In reply to:
Big Wall Bivy Gear
Runout Customs Double Portaledge
Bivy Sack: Black Diamond Big Wall Bivy Sac
Synthetic Sleeping Bag: Mountain Hardwear Ultralamina 15 or Mountain Hardwear Pinole 20 (BB)
Sleeping Pad: Therm-a-Rest Ridge Rest
Stove: JetBoil Flash with JetBoil Hanging Kit and Snow Peak Titanium Spork
Headlamp: Petzl Tikka XP 2
Rain Jacket: Outdoor Research Helium 2
Poles: Black Diamond Trail Compact (optional)
Poop Tube: Metolius Waste Case and Wag Bags
Stuff Sacks: Metolius Big Wall Stuff Sacks
Portable Solar Panel (optional)
Duct Tape
Wet One's wipes
cell phone

Oh. Besides just gear lists, you also have to know how to use every item on those lists. Even when you're dead tired and exhausted. After climbing all day. With 2 more pitches to go to the bivi. In the dark. And be able to do this for 2 or 3 or 4 or more continuous days. It's surprising how often parties either take unexpected additional time or outright bail when they discover their hands don't work too well after the 2nd day.


marc801


Apr 23, 2013, 8:09 AM
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Re: [marc801] beginner for big wall climbing El Capitan and half dome [In reply to]
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Of course there's an entirely different approach - go anyway and try it with your minimal skills and knowledge. You'll definitely have an adventure. Maybe you'll even successfully climb a route. Maybe you'll find a partner willing to put up with your lack of skills. Chances are you'll fail though. Maybe even get injured or killed. Or wind up killing your partner. At least you'll give YOSAR some practice.


brinosaur


Apr 23, 2013, 11:24 AM
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Re: [marc801] beginner for big wall climbing El Capitan and half dome [In reply to]
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Great, well-informed reply. Can't find anything to argue with and it serves a general PSA. But...

If my last post wasn't clear enough:
He's a troll, and an increasingly successful one at that.


marc801


Apr 23, 2013, 12:11 PM
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Re: [brinosaur] beginner for big wall climbing El Capitan and half dome [In reply to]
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brinosaur wrote:
If my last post wasn't clear enough:
He's a troll, and an increasingly successful one at that.
Oh, I totally agree. but with this being a beginners forum and all......

Seriously, even if the OP is indeed a probably troll, answers here should probably be more complete than just snark.


nashleung


Apr 23, 2013, 11:27 PM
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Re: [marc801] beginner for big wall climbing El Capitan and half dome [In reply to]
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thx so much,

that is i really wanna to know at all
let me check with my friend is it possible to us to do this

thx so much


hyhuu


Apr 24, 2013, 5:55 AM
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Re: [nashleung] beginner for big wall climbing El Capitan and half dome [In reply to]
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If you can find a suitable partner (experienced) and work hard to practice big wall skills and have the will, 6 months is not ideal but doable. Bigwall climbing isn't rocket science. Read as much as you can then go out and practice and pratice (on the ground first) so see what works for you. Even if you don't succeed, the experience is worthwhile. Good luck.


nashleung


Apr 25, 2013, 12:12 AM
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Thank hyhuu , under the safety, i will try to finish my dream


Jamie_B


Apr 27, 2013, 12:37 PM
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Re: [nashleung] beginner for big wall climbing El Capitan and half dome [In reply to]
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A question related to the OP-how long do you guys think it take to be able to climb big walls? I've not been climbing long but it looks like a very good thing to aim for. What sort of things would you recommend doing to start heading down that route?

Note that I don't plan on doing anything anytime soon, since I value my life quite highly.


csproul


Apr 27, 2013, 12:49 PM
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Re: [Jamie_B] beginner for big wall climbing El Capitan and half dome [In reply to]
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Jamie_B wrote:
A question related to the OP-how long do you guys think it take to be able to climb big walls? I've not been climbing long but it looks like a very good thing to aim for. What sort of things would you recommend doing to start heading down that route?

Note that I don't plan on doing anything anytime soon, since I value my life quite highly.
Most all of your answers are here:

http://www.supertopo.com/packs/road2nose.html

http://www.supertopo.com/packs/howtobigwall.html


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