Forums: Climbing Information: The Lab:
Esoteric knots
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for The Lab

Premier Sponsor:

 


amarius


Apr 30, 2013, 6:13 AM
Post #1 of 3 (1413 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 23, 2012
Posts: 98

Esoteric knots
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

No, this is not to start a 8 vs dbl flame war!
This article, World's toughest material, talks about creation of a toughest material, metric used is amount of energy absorbed before material gives up the ghost. The magic ingredient is just a simple knot - energy is dissipated as the knot tightens. Of course, once it gets tight and tension exceed strength of fiber, it falls apart.
How is this relevant to rock climbing? - Well, similar mechanism of energy dissipation could be applied for creation of load limiting tethers. Just tie a slipping knot with enough slack in the system so that by the time knot tightens resulting load will be less than a given amount.


acorneau


Apr 30, 2013, 6:21 AM
Post #2 of 3 (1411 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 6, 2008
Posts: 2889

Re: [amarius] Esoteric knots [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

amarius wrote:
No, this is not to start a 8 vs dbl flame war!
This article, World's toughest material, talks about creation of a toughest material, metric used is amount of energy absorbed before material gives up the ghost. The magic ingredient is just a simple knot - energy is dissipated as the knot tightens. Of course, once it gets tight and tension exceed strength of fiber, it falls apart.
How is this relevant to rock climbing? - Well, similar mechanism of energy dissipation could be applied for creation of load limiting tethers. Just tie a slipping knot with enough slack in the system so that by the time knot tightens resulting load will be less than a given amount.


That exists and is in daily use already, it's called a Purcell Prusik.


amarius


Apr 30, 2013, 8:54 AM
Post #3 of 3 (1362 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 23, 2012
Posts: 98

Re: [acorneau] Esoteric knots [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

One shortcoming - slipping rope rubs against the same patches on Prusik loops. Compare that to tightening of a simple square knot - the patches change. Not saying that square knot is preferable ;)


Forums : Climbing Information : The Lab

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?
$57.31 (10% off)



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook