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amarius
Apr 30, 2013, 1:13 PM
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Registered: Feb 23, 2012
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No, this is not to start a 8 vs dbl flame war!
This article, World's toughest material, talks about creation of a toughest material, metric used is amount of energy absorbed before material gives up the ghost. The magic ingredient is just a simple knot - energy is dissipated as the knot tightens. Of course, once it gets tight and tension exceed strength of fiber, it falls apart.
How is this relevant to rock climbing? - Well, similar mechanism of energy dissipation could be applied for creation of load limiting tethers. Just tie a slipping knot with enough slack in the system so that by the time knot tightens resulting load will be less than a given amount.
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acorneau
Apr 30, 2013, 1:21 PM
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Registered: Feb 6, 2008
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amarius wrote: No, this is not to start a 8 vs dbl flame war! This article, World's toughest material, talks about creation of a toughest material, metric used is amount of energy absorbed before material gives up the ghost. The magic ingredient is just a simple knot - energy is dissipated as the knot tightens. Of course, once it gets tight and tension exceed strength of fiber, it falls apart. How is this relevant to rock climbing? - Well, similar mechanism of energy dissipation could be applied for creation of load limiting tethers. Just tie a slipping knot with enough slack in the system so that by the time knot tightens resulting load will be less than a given amount.
That exists and is in daily use already, it's called a Purcell Prusik.
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amarius
Apr 30, 2013, 3:54 PM
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Registered: Feb 23, 2012
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One shortcoming - slipping rope rubs against the same patches on Prusik loops. Compare that to tightening of a simple square knot - the patches change. Not saying that square knot is preferable ;)
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