|
iluvmylife1985
May 1, 2013, 12:19 AM
Post #1 of 25
(10718 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 1, 2013
Posts: 8
|
I have been bouldering for a year now. I tend to be injury prone (shoulder & knee), so I have been conservative in my progress. I currently boulder 2 days/week (1 hard day, 1 easy day) and can do all the V2s in the gym. I recently tried V3s, but could not do much; only 2 of the 10 I tried (sincerely).
I have set myself a 30-day challenge: I should be able to do any ten V3s and four V4 routes by May 31st. Is this a reasonable goal to set?
To complete this task in 1 month, I'd like to focus on areas that would have the biggest performance impact. I'd appreciate any general or specific advice pertaining to:
- Strength Training
- Technique
- Training Schedule (frequency, variety, etc.)
- Nutrition & Rest
- Mental Control
I am a 150lb 5'8" male (17% BF). Not super fit, but not in terrible shape either. I hope to not hurt myself in the coming month!
Thanks so much!
|
|
|
|
|
shockabuku
May 1, 2013, 4:29 AM
Post #2 of 25
(10663 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 20, 2006
Posts: 4868
|
Sounds like another injury in the making. Why push so hard? In my experience steady progress pays off a lot better than short bursts that may sideline you.
|
|
|
|
|
crackmeup
May 1, 2013, 5:59 AM
Post #3 of 25
(10648 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 23, 2006
Posts: 146
|
iluvmylife1985 wrote: Is this a reasonable goal to set?
No. Why the rush? If you want to set a reasonable 30-day goal, come up with a methodical and conservative training program to follow for 30 days. If anything, it seems to me that at this point you should focus on preventing injuries rather than on pushing the grade.
|
|
|
|
|
iknowfear
May 1, 2013, 1:18 PM
Post #4 of 25
(10609 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 8, 2004
Posts: 670
|
iluvmylife1985 wrote: I have been bouldering for a year now. I tend to be injury prone (shoulder & knee), so I have been conservative in my progress. I currently boulder 2 days/week (1 hard day, 1 easy day) and can do all the V2s in the gym. I recently tried V3s, but could not do much; only 2 of the 10 I tried (sincerely). I have set myself a 30-day challenge: I should be able to do any ten V3s and four V4 routes by May 31st. Is this a reasonable goal to set? To complete this task in 1 month, I'd like to focus on areas that would have the biggest performance impact. I'd appreciate any general or specific advice pertaining to: - Strength Training - Technique - Training Schedule (frequency, variety, etc.) - Nutrition & Rest - Mental Control I am a 150lb 5'8" male (17% BF). Not super fit, but not in terrible shape either. I hope to not hurt myself in the coming month! Thanks so much!
I see conflicts in these two statements. As of where you have most to gain... that really depends where your biggest weakness lies.
A tip: if you think its strenght, its probably technique holding you back...
|
|
|
|
|
Shanna
May 1, 2013, 2:19 PM
Post #5 of 25
(10594 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 7, 2012
Posts: 21
|
This is not a good strategy. If you can do all of the V2s in your gym, do them again and each time focus on doing them with perfect, efficient movement. Work on volume at your on-sight level for 30 days.
|
|
|
|
|
marc801
May 1, 2013, 2:52 PM
Post #6 of 25
(10587 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 1, 2005
Posts: 2806
|
iluvmylife1985 wrote: I have been bouldering for a year now. I tend to be injury prone (shoulder & knee)...
|
|
|
|
|
iluvmylife1985
May 1, 2013, 4:28 PM
Post #7 of 25
(10563 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 1, 2013
Posts: 8
|
Thanks for taking the time to reply! Yes, I recognize that it is definitely pushing the limits. Based on the advice I've received, I am considering setting more reasonable goals for my challenge.
I'll also post below my current training schedule. Let me know if you have any thoughts after reading that.
|
|
|
|
|
iluvmylife1985
May 1, 2013, 4:51 PM
Post #8 of 25
(10552 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 1, 2013
Posts: 8
|
Thanks for your replies everyone - appreciate the feedback! The unanimous advice appears to be that this is too aggressive. Taking that into advisement, I am rethinking my goals for my 30-day challenge. May be I will reformulate them to capture a well-rounded training schedule.
I also want to point out my current routine. This might give a better picture of where I'm at, and what I can do to improve. I climb 2 days a week:
Tue: Progressive climbing day. I climb at my current level (V2). I do 15 V2s in a 90 minute session. I have been doing this for 2 months. I have done each route at least 5-6 times.
Sat: Endurance climbing day. I climb all the VB, V0 and V1 (about 35 routes in total) with almost no breaks in between. This takes about 45 mins.
Mon/Fri: Squats and Deadlifts respectively. I do 5 sets of 15 reps each with low weights (90 lb or less)
Here's a video of me attempting a V3 (and failing): http://youtu.be/tTkCE7-ZCjg. It may be due to lack of mental preparation/preplanning, losing strength en-route, not applying the right technique, or all the above and more. But this is the level I am at.
Ideally, I'd like to climb 3 days a week (and cut down on one of my weight days). I am leaning towards setting a 30-day challenge, as opposed to gradual progression, since I tend to be more motivated with a deadline in sight. Of course, I want to do this safely and will set more realistic goals. The last thing I want is to be hurt again.
Any feedback on improvement or appropriate goals for the next 30 days given my progress so far is appreciated! (I just ordered the Self Coached Climber and Climbing: Training for Peak Performance to see if there's solid training regimen I can follow)
(This post was edited by iluvmylife1985 on May 1, 2013, 4:52 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
iluvmylife1985
May 1, 2013, 4:58 PM
Post #9 of 25
(10548 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 1, 2013
Posts: 8
|
Given my post above on details on my current regimen, what do you think I am doing wrong? Any pointers on improving? Thanks!
|
|
|
|
|
shimanilami
May 2, 2013, 12:00 AM
Post #10 of 25
(10469 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 24, 2006
Posts: 2043
|
I think you need to build a bit more "intelligence" into your training plan. I don't see any problem with shooting for some V3's and even a V4 or two, but this should be part of a broader plan to become a better climber ...
... which might include V2's as well, perhaps some 4x4's with V1/V2's, movement drills ... holy shit, even route climbing.
Suggestion: Self Coached Climber.
|
|
|
|
|
redlude97
May 2, 2013, 12:20 AM
Post #11 of 25
(10463 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 27, 2008
Posts: 990
|
Are you at SG Bellevue?
|
|
|
|
|
redlude97
May 2, 2013, 12:25 AM
Post #12 of 25
(10459 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 27, 2008
Posts: 990
|
BTW, in that video the thing that seems to be limiting you more than anything is you simply didn't know what to do. You didn't run out of strength/endurance, as you were able to hold onto that last hold and switch feet multiple times. Watch someone do the same route and use their beta, or ask some of the stronger climbers around
|
|
|
|
|
jt512
May 2, 2013, 3:52 AM
Post #13 of 25
(10418 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904
|
redlude97 wrote: BTW, in that video the thing that seems to be limiting you more than anything is you simply didn't know what to do.
Exactly. After grabbing that second yellow handlebar, you're lost. Just figure out that move—or have someone show it to you—and send the fucking problem.
|
|
|
|
|
atpclimbing
May 2, 2013, 1:23 PM
Post #14 of 25
(10369 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 8, 2011
Posts: 32
|
Shanna wrote: This is not a good strategy. If you can do all of the V2s in your gym, do them again and each time focus on doing them with perfect, efficient movement. Work on volume at your on-sight level for 30 days.
It sounds like you're already doing the above. Looking at your routine, are you even trying the v3's and 4's? You gotta get on 'em to ever have a chance of sending them. Climbing every easy problem in the gym will never build the strength required for sending harder problems. Just don't hurt yourself...
As for your lifting routine. Why? The way you're approaching those lifts is not a recipe to get stronger. If you have knee problems, lifting heavy (well, heavier) will actually help strengthen the supporting muscles.
I too suffer from recurrent shoulder injuries - start doing something about it! The weight room is the place to do it. Tons of useful information on shoulder rehab/prehab on the net.
Edited to add: Good luck!
(This post was edited by atpclimbing on May 2, 2013, 1:26 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
Shanna
May 2, 2013, 5:58 PM
Post #15 of 25
(10324 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 7, 2012
Posts: 21
|
Yes- I based the recommendation on the assumptions from the original post and didn't provide much detail. Like most beginners, I assumed technique is lacking (??) and a base. In my experience (N=1), the best place to learn movement and technique is at the OS +1 level. Repeating problems focusing on how to do each move more efficient is a key component to getting better. Volumen and mileage are critical for any beginner level climber.
There are many other components, but I was only stating a 30day plan with what I thought was important.
|
|
|
|
|
deschamps1000
May 2, 2013, 11:48 PM
Post #16 of 25
(10282 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 29, 2004
Posts: 343
|
I don't think that training is a good thing to do after only one year. Just keep climbing. Get some mileage under your belt.
|
|
|
|
|
mleogrande
May 11, 2013, 2:21 PM
Post #17 of 25
(9972 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 6, 2009
Posts: 48
|
Are you able to train more than 2 days. Climbing maybe 4 days a week would be a lot better. You said you can climb all the V2's. I'm sure your already strong enough for V4. Here are my tips. Make sure to warm up. Your nervous system has to warm up. To get your system amped up, start with 5-10 min of very light traversing. Make sure to really warm up the legs and body. Then climb a few easy boulders and progress slowly to more difficult ones. Avoid getting pumped during warm-up. Also, don't stretch too hard. Light stretching before hard climbing is best, as over stretching can weaken muscle tissue during the session. Also, do some light massage to your forearms. All of this will get your power and body ready for hard injury free climbing.
While projecting your V3/4, make sure to avoid pump while figuring out the moves. Pump will affect your power during your project session. Every time you fall, take 1-5 min to rest depending on how many moves you just performed. This will prevent pump, and allow fingers to recover from strenuous grips. I always see newb's not resting enough.
Lastly, in a gym, the higher the grade, the more beta the climb may have. Make sure your posture, footwork, grip positioning is all correct. Relax, breath, and get rid of any wasted movement.
As a experienced climber, I can say that keeping injuries away is a big part of getting better. Train safely and have fun. Try many different climbs on different terrain and different setters. For now stay away from fingerboards until your 100% injury free and have months of climbing under your belt.
You'll get all types of advise here. Over time you'll figure out what works for you. Everyone trains different.
|
|
|
|
|
camhead
May 11, 2013, 3:22 PM
Post #18 of 25
(9951 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 10, 2001
Posts: 20939
|
For once on this site, this thread has had quite a bit of good advice for you: work on technique of moving smoothly over rock and plastic, don't push yourself too hard, etc. If you have been taking things "conservatively" because you are injury prone, do NOT set goals like breaking into v4 in 30 days or whatever.
In the last two months, four climbers at my gym have injured tendons. Every one of them slacked off all winter, did not train or undertrained, and then when the spring season came along, they suddenly remembered that they wanted to climb hard, pushed themselves too much in catching up, and wound up worse off then they were initially.
Short version: don't push it.
|
|
|
|
|
surfstar
May 12, 2013, 5:32 AM
Post #19 of 25
(9870 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 31, 2011
Posts: 206
|
camhead wrote: For once on this site, this thread has had quite a bit of good advice for you: work on technique of moving smoothly over rock and plastic, don't push yourself too hard, etc.
Woah, woah, woah.
Hold on there.
No one said anything about outdoor climbing. "rock" climbing takes place in the gym. Where #s count.
|
|
|
|
|
Muenchener
May 12, 2013, 8:23 PM
Post #20 of 25
(9808 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 10, 2010
Posts: 7
|
Contrary to the general opinion here, I think your challenge sounds like quite a nice idea and should be feasible. How's it going?
Trying to complete a challenge is a different thing from training, though, and you shouldn't confuse the two. The idea is you are supposed to train for something before you do it, not during. For the duration of May you should try to plan your rest days, nutrition etc. tactically with a view to feeling good on your bouldering days, and on your bouldering days, warm up on a few easy problems then have at it.
I echo the previous comment about the lifting sessions. Are they supposed to be helping your bouldering? They're not. I know a few people who think heavyish deadlifting is quite valuable for hard bouldering, but that doesn't mean light deadlifting is valuable for easy bouldering. Even if you're doing them for some other reason, I don't see what that particular protocol would be good for. Anyway, for the duration of the challenge would it be feasible to ditch one of the sessions in favour of an extra bouldering session? Bouldering is harder on shoulders & elbows than route climbing though, so be careful about upping the volume & intensity too much all at once.
Regarding the video: what was your plan at the point at which you let go and gave up and why didn't it work out? I assume you had a plan? In bouldering - especially indoor bouldering - it's generally possible to see and plan what's required of you before you leave the floor, and you should always try to do so. If you can't see what to do, or the sequence you had planned didn't work out, than as other have said watch or ask other people. In my experience they're generally happy to help.
|
|
|
|
|
iluvmylife1985
May 13, 2013, 8:52 PM
Post #21 of 25
(9716 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 1, 2013
Posts: 8
|
Thanks for the great advice! Here's what I've doing the last couple of weeks.
- As far as my goals for the month are concerned (10 V3 and 4 V4), I can now comfortably send 6 V3s in the gym. I have been projecting one V4 for the last 2 sessions, but haven't been able to complete it yet.
- I am not being hell bent on achieving my target (based on feedback I received that it is aggressive). But having it gives me a goal to work towards. I'm climbing with injury prevention on top of mind (sufficient warming up, starting with plenty of VBs and avoiding routes that are finger-strength intensive)
- The advice on resting between attempts is golden! In the past, I've usually tried to limit my time in the gym to 1 hour and try to get in as much climbing as possible. Yesterday, I set no time limits and took plenty of rest in between attempts. The results were remarkable. Thanks!
(This post was edited by iluvmylife1985 on May 13, 2013, 8:53 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
iluvmylife1985
May 13, 2013, 9:03 PM
Post #22 of 25
(9713 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 1, 2013
Posts: 8
|
Hello there, thanks for your advice!
It's been going decent I'd say. I've been able to have repeatable success with some V3s and been attempting a couple of V4s (no success there yet). But, all in all, I am happy with my progress the last couple of weeks.
I've been been paying special attention to my non-climbing activities as well. Eating healthier at home, 8 hours of sleep, etc. Cut down 2% BF in 2 weeks, so guess some of that is working.
I have stopped lifting weights for this month, for two reasons: (i) It doesn't seem to directly improve my climbing (ii) I can spare 4 evenings/week. If I lift more, I have to cut down on my climbing days. I ended up climbing 3-4 days/week and taking a hiatus on the lifting.
I currently climb on Day1, 2 and 4, 5. What is a good schedule for people who climb 4 days/week? I am able to do it, but find myself a little weaker on days 2 and 5.
|
|
|
|
|
iluvmylife1985
May 13, 2013, 9:07 PM
Post #23 of 25
(9710 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 1, 2013
Posts: 8
|
Regarding the video I posted:
For the most part, I didn't know where to go from there. The reasons I posted this were: (1) this was the only video I had and (2) to give an idea of where I'm currently at (i.e. not a complete newbie), but not good enough for sighting a V3 either.
I ended up sending the same route on my next attempt, after this video was taken.
|
|
|
|
|
iluvmylife1985
May 13, 2013, 9:10 PM
Post #24 of 25
(9709 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 1, 2013
Posts: 8
|
Yes, sir, I climb at SG Bellevue. Keen observation! Do you climb there as well?
|
|
|
|
|
redlude97
May 13, 2013, 10:06 PM
Post #25 of 25
(9692 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 27, 2008
Posts: 990
|
iluvmylife1985 wrote: Yes, sir, I climb at SG Bellevue. Keen observation! Do you climb there as well?
Your 1 hour sessions are way to short if you are training. 2-3 hour sessions are a goal, 2-3 nights a week at 2-3 hours is going to be more productive than 4 nights at 1-2 hours IME. I spend close to 30 minutes warming up either doing ARCing on the autobelays or traversing, or v0-v2s. When you pack too many climbs in too quickly in your session you'll flash pump which will limit the rest of your session. For where you are at it seems like technique is your biggest limiter, so getting more mileage in is where you should be aiming. Reclimbing V1-V2's using different techniques should help immensely. Another option is heading over to Ballard or the SBP for different styles of setting to get more practice at various moves at your climbing level.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
