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How to get better and acheive my goals
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skalla92


May 5, 2013, 12:44 PM
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How to get better and acheive my goals
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I'm 16 and have been climbing for about a year now. I climb indoors mainly as i haven't been able to get outside much. Indoors, i have flashed some 5.11s and some V5s. Ive projected a 5.12+ to the top twice. I'm on my local gyms climbing team.

My main weak point is large moves on small crimps. I could get better at slopers. I would say i gave pretty great technique, as my climbing team has spent a lot of time mainly with that. I practice technique every time before i climb (Perfect toe placement, balance, strait arms, and momentum)

I climb 2 times a week with my team for 1.5 hrs, and every Saturday with climbing friends. I also try to make it one more time a week. This is usually at the gym.

My goal is to be able to flash a 5.12 by the end of the year. What are the main things (training, technique, anything else) that i can do to be able to get better at climbing and achieve my goals?


dan2see


May 5, 2013, 3:23 PM
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Re: [skalla92] How to get better and acheive my goals [In reply to]
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Hey! You've already reached one important milestone toward your goals: your ego is right up there!


shimanilami


May 5, 2013, 3:33 PM
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You should ask your coach if he can put together a personalized training program for you. Unlike us anonymous posters at RC.com, he's actually seen you climb and presumably knows your strengths and weaknesses. I'd guess that he also has a vested interest in seeing you improve.


skalla92


May 5, 2013, 3:58 PM
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Sweet, Great idea! Ill do that next practice! thanks!


marc801


May 5, 2013, 4:29 PM
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skalla92 wrote:
I'm 16 and have been climbing for about a year now. I climb indoors mainly as i haven't been able to get outside much. Indoors, i have flashed some 5.11s and some V5s. Ive projected a 5.12+ to the top twice. I'm on my local gyms climbing team.

My main weak point is large moves on small crimps. I could get better at slopers. I would say i gave pretty great technique, as my climbing team has spent a lot of time mainly with that. I practice technique every time before i climb (Perfect toe placement, balance, strait arms, and momentum)

I climb 2 times a week with my team for 1.5 hrs, and every Saturday with climbing friends. I also try to make it one more time a week. This is usually at the gym.

My goal is to be able to flash a 5.12 by the end of the year. What are the main things (training, technique, anything else) that i can do to be able to get better at climbing and achieve my goals?
Be careful with the crimpers - you're at the perfect stage for a pulley injury. You've only been climbing for a year and you're into the 12s and you're very young. Your muscles can get strong very quickly - your tendons lag behind by anywhere from 1 to 5 years. You're one of the classic candidates for posting here 3 months from now about hearing a loud pop in one of your fingers and feeling intense pain when you do such and such. Then you'll whine and complain when people tell you that you'll need to lay off hard climbing for 3, 6 or even 12 months.


Jimmiekehl


Jun 27, 2013, 3:35 AM
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If you are planning for a better level, go for a rock climbing course near your locality. Just like Shimanilami commented, they can better understand your strength and weakness and show the path you should follow. Also rock course trips are effective to study various locations and mountains. A lot of study centers like Mountain Skills Academy(http://mountainskillsacademy.com/) are now providing these kind of guide training programs to help hikers. Smile


(This post was edited by Jimmiekehl on Jun 27, 2013, 3:54 AM)


Mikek


Jun 27, 2013, 7:10 AM
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Well, sorry, but you don't have "pretty great technique." I know tons of V2 to V3 climbers who float 5.12 or better - technique. It sounds like you're getting a good understanding of some foundations of technique, and good on you and your coach for that. Keep your focus on that aspect, and keep Marc's advice in mind, too.


olderic


Jun 27, 2013, 8:55 AM
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I'll give you the standard knee jerk cliched response - focus more on the mental/emotional aspects as opposed to the number chasing. The physical aspect of training is not difficult - lots of "coaches" have made easy $$$ by documenting various approached to training for climbing - shouldn't be hard to find one.

Developing and attitude such that climbing is a fun activity that you can pursue your whole life is harder.

Oh - and find a soft slabby 12 that caters to your amazing footwork.


N_Oo_B


Jul 8, 2013, 12:13 PM
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It couldn't hurt to make a log of your diet for a week or so and start to consider tuning every food for top performance.

I think the warning about finger injury is worth reading twice.

Also the idea of talking to your coach, gym staff, or others around the gym who can pull 12's what they see that you can work on / what type of route you'll push that rate on with what strong areas you have atm.


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