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bowshaaa
May 5, 2013, 5:08 PM
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Registered: Jun 12, 2012
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I have been training on campus rungs for the past 6 months and have seen some amazing improvements in my climbing ability (v8 to v10 bouldering). I have put together some video of the training I do on a weekly basis:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kKtEQzo-K2c
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BmROhnOLjL4
My question to the readers of this post is if you have any advanced technique exercises that can complement my current training. (if possible, have links also please to training vids/articles) If you have tried any advanced training exercises, do you feel they have worked or which ones worked best? Thanks in advance for any responses!
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livefree
May 5, 2013, 11:13 PM
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The best training for climbing is climbing.
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rhythm164
May 6, 2013, 2:16 PM
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livefree wrote: The best training for climbing is climbing.
enjoy your V4 plateau.
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granite_grrl
May 6, 2013, 2:33 PM
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What other training have you been doing? Doing campusing doesn't seem like it's going to help much without some hangboarding, endurence training, etc as well.
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bowshaaa
May 6, 2013, 3:03 PM
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I do hangboard exercises also (moon fingerboard: dead hang, frenchies, off set lock offs, etc.). Campus routines do quite a bit for performance and endurance if you turn the exercises into endurance runs (ie, longer runs with alternating movements). My goal is to do different exercises to stave off boredom, stagnation, and to keep from plateau-ing.
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bowshaaa
May 6, 2013, 6:26 PM
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Thanks! This is a great read that will be sure to give me some help!
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flesh
May 29, 2013, 8:56 PM
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What works over time training is too mix it up. Personally, I recommend keeping as open hand as possible. Maybe 10% crimp training when power training.
You can add weight or add distance of course. I have a 20 lb weight vest. Make sure to keep track of your progress in each work out so you KNOW that you are improving. Sometimes, it helps to rate different workouts to use as bench marks as well.
For example, I have a custome 22mm rung (in between small and medium metolius), If I can do four reps of doubles skipping one rung (spaced 8 inches standard) on the way up and down on this rung... I all it hard v10. 5 reps is soft v11, 6 reps is hard v11, I call a rep going up and down once.
soft v12 is using a 20lb vest and skipping one rung up one down doing doubles 3 reps, hard v12 is 4 reps.
Add distance. If you can go up and down the board skipping , say, one rung, try skipping two on the way down or up. The further you pull the harder you must pull on your fingers ofc.
Mix it up. I usually do 7 sets of campus workouts with 10 minute rests between sets (for close to full recovery). I usually have 3 different workouts I'll focus on where I'll do 2 or 3 sets of each workout.
Right now, I'll do doubles on the medium rung with 20 lb vest one set. The next I'll skip three rungs on the small/medium/custom rungs on the way up then come right back down to where I started and do it again. On the third set.... (I have a set of t-nuts for holds on the left and right side of my medium and custom rungs) I'll paste my feet (with c shoes on) to some small footholds that require alot of body tension to keep on and intentionally (whether or not its the easiest way) keep my feet on while using two crimps low on the board do big reaches with 3 points on keeping very square. I'll go up down up down till failure. When I improve, I add distance, make the hold smaller, or add my 20 lb vest.
Get psyched!
You must keep track of your results, I have a dry erase board next to my well where I do this. If I'm always making Personal best's I know I'm improving. Using bench marks and rating them helps with this as well.
It should be for pure power (3-6 reps max, or the equivalent of time elapsed till failure). Improve your pure power and adding endurance is a no brainer. If you find yourself going above 4-5 reps or an elapsed time of, say 10 seconds until failure, add weights/distance/use smaller holds.
In between sets, work your core... with 10 minute rests between sets that gives me plenty of time to work my core. To go beyond v10, You'll need a very strong core..... a strong core effectively makes every hold larger because you'll be able to hold the rest of your body in the optimum position for efficiency.
This is directed to the OP who climbs v10 already, FYI.
NOt responsible for errors. IDC
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bentgate03
May 30, 2013, 3:41 PM
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granite_grrl wrote: What other training have you been doing? Doing campusing doesn't seem like it's going to help much without some hangboarding, endurence training, etc as well.
If you improve your strength and power, endurance comes along with it. The stronger you are, your muscles are capable at working at a lower % so your endurance is better.
Consider this: If you had a goal to bench 100lbs 10 times, would you only bench 100lbs max. No, you would be better served doing bench presses at a higher amount like 120 x6, 140x4 etc. This would make 100 lbs easier since your muscles are working at a lower % of their max. You would hit your goal much faster doing it that way than doing 80x12,90x10.
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amarius
May 30, 2013, 4:11 PM
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That is a very interesting point you are making regarding higher weight training.
Ultimately, strength is determined by amounts of muscle fibers - this is presuming all the usual bits, such max recruitment, neural mumbo-jumbo, taken to the max. Then the question becomes - what stimulates muscle growth better - high load/low rep, or lower load/high rep?
Surprisingly, some folks did research!
Low-Load High Volume Resistance Exercise Stimulates Muscle Protein Synthesis More Than High-Load Low Volume Resistance Exercise in Young Men
In reply to: Conclusions/Significance These results suggest that low-load high volume resistance exercise is more effective in inducing acute muscle anabolism than high-load low volume or work matched resistance exercise modes.
Some other folks also noticed that high load/low reps are not that great for connective tissues, try to find it!
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flesh
May 30, 2013, 5:03 PM
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I guess it depends on what you call high/low. If low was 3 reps and high was 6 reps, based on my own power training I would say 6 is better. If its 20 reps vs 10 reps, 10 is definitely better.
I know personally for sure that my max power as it applies to short boulder problems of say, four moves, would slowly increase if I focused on the ten hardest moves I could do. It would be faster by focusing on 4-6 moves. I'm sure it is harder on your connective tissue to focus on more weight/less reps which is good reason for all the disclaimers when campusing.
I tried to understand the study but it was a bit confusing. Are we sure this is a comparable workout to campusing? What they measured, is this the only/best way to measure what would add finger strength fastest in climber?
Isn't it true that when lifting weights its common to focus on low reps to add strength/size?
Do you have any personal experience with what this study suggests will work best?
For me, a big part of why campusing is a critical component is because it's measurable. I always rest 10 minutes between sets, using the same exact holds, I know if I'm improving. Having proof of improvement for me is what keeps my psyche up. If I'm psyched, I try harder and therefore I get stronger and improve.
I also have benchmark boulder problems outside.... but I can't rely on outdoor grades because they vary so much from area to area and are subjective by nature. Even the boulder problems outside that I've done 20 times can be harder/easier based on temperature/humidity/wind, etc. However, the campus board in my garage seems to be a much more controlled environment.
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bentgate03
May 30, 2013, 7:09 PM
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amarius wrote: That is a very interesting point you are making regarding higher weight training. Ultimately, strength is determined by amounts of muscle fibers - this is presuming all the usual bits, such max recruitment, neural mumbo-jumbo, taken to the max. Then the question becomes - what stimulates muscle growth better - high load/low rep, or lower load/high rep? Surprisingly, some folks did research! Low-Load High Volume Resistance Exercise Stimulates Muscle Protein Synthesis More Than High-Load Low Volume Resistance Exercise in Young Men In reply to: Conclusions/Significance These results suggest that low-load high volume resistance exercise is more effective in inducing acute muscle anabolism than high-load low volume or work matched resistance exercise modes. Some other folks also noticed that high load/low reps are not that great for connective tissues, try to find it!
They also dont distinguish between the two types of hypertrophy - myofibrillatedr and sarcoplasmic. If you are talking about the latter, yes a higher rep range induces greater sarcoplasmic hypertrophy. I am talking about myofibrillar which is an increase in strength without an requisite increase in muscle size. This is what low load/power exercises induce and is what most climbers should be going for - strenght gain without the resultant buffing up.
Think of sarcoplasmic as body builders and myofibrillated as olympic lifters who want to maintain their weight class but get as strong as possible.
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