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using holds with no tape?
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bear99


May 16, 2013, 11:30 AM
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using holds with no tape?
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This might be a dumb question but here I go...

The local gym I climb at seems to have holds that are not taped. I'm a big proponent of not "cheating" when climbing a specific indoor route and in my climbs I have found that there are holds here and there (not many, mind you) dotting the walls that are not taped. Why this is, I have no idea. Maybe the tape fell off? Maybe they weren't taped for a reason?

Assuming the latter, (not taped for a reason) I'm assuming these holds are fair game and are just "neutral holds" to be used for any of the routes that come close to it? I have noticed that the majority of these "neutral" holds are excellent jugs. Really great spots for resting.

I'm fairly new to climbing but was curious if I was missing out on climbing ettiquette for something like this.

Thanks!


rocknice2


May 16, 2013, 12:48 PM
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Re: [bear99] using holds with no tape? [In reply to]
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If there is no tape it means it's not part of any set route. It's not a 'Wild Card Hold'.
Although it may be the 'No Tape Route' V15+.


lena_chita
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May 16, 2013, 12:49 PM
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Re: [bear99] using holds with no tape? [In reply to]
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bear99 wrote:
This might be a dumb question but here I go...

The local gym I climb at seems to have holds that are not taped. I'm a big proponent of not "cheating" when climbing a specific indoor route and in my climbs I have found that there are holds here and there (not many, mind you) dotting the walls that are not taped. Why this is, I have no idea. Maybe the tape fell off? Maybe they weren't taped for a reason?

Assuming the latter, (not taped for a reason) I'm assuming these holds are fair game and are just "neutral holds" to be used for any of the routes that come close to it? I have noticed that the majority of these "neutral" holds are excellent jugs. Really great spots for resting.

I'm fairly new to climbing but was curious if I was missing out on climbing ettiquette for something like this.

Thanks!

First of all, it has nothing to do with "etiquette"

Second, your best bet would be to ask people at the gym, if you think that tape may have fallen off, or if you are unsure why there are some holds without tape.

But my interpretation would be this:

NO, the holds that have no tape are NOT "neutral holds" that are fair game for the route you are trying to do. The default assumption in most gyms is that only taped holds are "on" for any given route, if the route is labeled "track" or "foot-follow".

Some gyms, usually the ones with plywood walls, have rules such as "jibs (screwed-on small holds, not bigger holds that are attached by bolts) are on by default, unless the problem is marked as tracking". Some gyms that have molded walls, such as Entreprize, Nicros, etc. have similar rules, something along the lines of " natural features are on, unless the problem is marked at tracking"

But this is why your best course of action is to ask people who work the desk at the gym, ask route-setters, and/or ask experienced climbers.

As to why there might be random holds on the wall that are not taped, there could be a few reasons:

--they are there for people who make up their own problems

--they are there as "fillers" for empty spots, so new people who like to just climb to the top of the wall without worrying what they grab, can do so. (the fact that you mention these hold as being usually jugs makes me favor this possibility)

--they are there because route-setters like to throw some big holds on the wall first, in strategic locations, while the wall is bare, and then use them up for hands/feet as they set problems, because otherwise there is never room to put those big holds or volumes on, once the wall is semi-filled with problems.

--tape fell off


Partner cracklover


May 16, 2013, 1:46 PM
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Re: [lena_chita] using holds with no tape? [In reply to]
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lena_chita wrote:
As to why there might be random holds on the wall that are not taped, there could be a few reasons:
<snip other possible reasons>

-- The bolt is a spinner, and requires someone going behind with either a wrench or a saw to get the bolt off.

GO


marc801


May 16, 2013, 7:50 PM
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Re: [bear99] using holds with no tape? [In reply to]
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bear99 wrote:
This might be a dumb question but here I go...

The local gym I climb at seems to have holds that are not taped. I'm a big proponent of not "cheating" when climbing a specific indoor route and in my climbs I have found that there are holds here and there (not many, mind you) dotting the walls that are not taped. Why this is, I have no idea. Maybe the tape fell off? Maybe they weren't taped for a reason?

Assuming the latter, (not taped for a reason) I'm assuming these holds are fair game and are just "neutral holds" to be used for any of the routes that come close to it? I have noticed that the majority of these "neutral" holds are excellent jugs. Really great spots for resting.

I'm fairly new to climbing but was curious if I was missing out on climbing ettiquette for something like this.

Thanks!
You wrote all that on the internet instead of just asking the folks at the gym???


amarius


May 17, 2013, 8:37 AM
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Re: [lena_chita] using holds with no tape? [In reply to]
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One more possibility -
- a route/problem is being developed


olderic


May 17, 2013, 12:39 PM
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Re: [marc801] using holds with no tape? [In reply to]
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marc801 wrote:
bear99 wrote:
This might be a dumb question but here I go...

The local gym I climb at seems to have holds that are not taped. I'm a big proponent of not "cheating" when climbing a specific indoor route and in my climbs I have found that there are holds here and there (not many, mind you) dotting the walls that are not taped. Why this is, I have no idea. Maybe the tape fell off? Maybe they weren't taped for a reason?

Assuming the latter, (not taped for a reason) I'm assuming these holds are fair game and are just "neutral holds" to be used for any of the routes that come close to it? I have noticed that the majority of these "neutral" holds are excellent jugs. Really great spots for resting.

I'm fairly new to climbing but was curious if I was missing out on climbing ettiquette for something like this.

Thanks!
You wrote all that on the internet instead of just asking the folks at the gym???

Lots of verbose people - who like to hear themselves talk - in this thread.


Alimali


May 27, 2013, 12:40 AM
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Re: [bear99] using holds with no tape? [In reply to]
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At the gym I go to there are a ton of holds with no tape. When they take a few problems down, they'll just throw a bunch of holds up. They obviously put holds on more strategically when they're setting problems, but often they'll incorporate the random holds already there.


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