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how hard can a hand crack be?
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ghisino


May 16, 2013, 8:42 AM
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how hard can a hand crack be?
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Dumb troll question.

as a euro crack climbing wannabe i am wondering how hard an existing crack pitch offering mostly bomber hand jams (yellow camalot for my hands) can be...
(ie how long, how sustained, how steep is the hardest you know, what approximate grade does it get)

i have climbed or closely inspected a handful examples in valle dell'Orco, Italy, but they are either very short or the good hand jams ain't the meat of the bussiness.


deschamps1000


May 16, 2013, 9:21 AM
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Re: [ghisino] how hard can a hand crack be? [In reply to]
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A perfect vertical hand crack in the U.S. will generally not be harder than 5.9+.

If there are roofs and steep sections in the climb, it will usually be 5.10 but no harder if it is perfect hands.


camhead


May 16, 2013, 9:28 AM
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Re: [deschamps1000] how hard can a hand crack be? [In reply to]
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Three factors determine the difficulty of a crack, even if it's perfect hands: its angle, the distance between jams, and the quality of the jams (the more outwardly flared, the harder; the more inwardly flared, the easier).

In theory, a handcrack that is long enough, flared enough, and steep enough could get up to the 5.13 range. The crackhouse in Moab is a good example, although it has a technical crux that is thinner than hands. If there was a line that really pumped you into redlining, then threw a v6 crux of dynamic movement between spaced, flared handjams, yeah, 5.13 easy.

But for practical purposes, most handcracks stay at 5.11- or less. Once you get harder than that, it's usually because it gets narrower or wider than perfect hands.


lena_chita
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May 16, 2013, 12:22 PM
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Re: [camhead] how hard can a hand crack be? [In reply to]
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camhead wrote:
Three factors determine the difficulty of a crack, even if it's perfect hands: its angle, the distance between jams, and the quality of the jams (the more outwardly flared, the harder; the more inwardly flared, the easier).

In theory, a handcrack that is long enough, flared enough, and steep enough could get up to the 5.13 range. The crackhouse in Moab is a good example, although it has a technical crux that is thinner than hands. If there was a line that really pumped you into redlining, then threw a v6 crux of dynamic movement between spaced, flared handjams, yeah, 5.13 easy.

But for practical purposes, most handcracks stay at 5.11- or less. Once you get harder than that, it's usually because it gets narrower or wider than perfect hands.

WHOSE perfect hands?


ACJ


May 16, 2013, 4:14 PM
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Re: [lena_chita] how hard can a hand crack be? [In reply to]
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Agreed.

Crack climbing is outrageously subjective. Hand size vs crack size vs flare vs how steep vs how long.

Just when somebody says it can't be any harder, the next hardest thing seems to be found...


jomagam


May 16, 2013, 5:10 PM
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Re: [ACJ] how hard can a hand crack be? [In reply to]
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Didn't Steph Davis say that the crack ratings should be "easy", "hard", and "can't do it" ?


edge


May 16, 2013, 5:12 PM
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Re: [jomagam] how hard can a hand crack be? [In reply to]
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jomagam wrote:
Didn't Steph Davis say that the crack ratings should be "easy", "hard", and "can't do it" ?

Sounds like she borrowed from Dale Bard's old rating system; Easy, Hard, and Too Hard for Bard.


(This post was edited by edge on May 16, 2013, 5:13 PM)


curt


May 17, 2013, 1:53 PM
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Re: [jomagam] how hard can a hand crack be? [In reply to]
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jomagam wrote:
Didn't Steph Davis say that the crack ratings should be "easy", "hard", and "can't do it" ?

Like B1, B2 and B3? Cool

Curt


lemon_boy


May 17, 2013, 2:26 PM
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Re: [curt] how hard can a hand crack be? [In reply to]
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i think there are several more factors that affect the difficulty of a hand crack - lean (ie in a diagonal direction), skew (whether the crack is straight into the rock or if it is splitting the rock at an angle), and friction (a really slippery crack will be more difficult than a crack with grippy texture).


deschamps1000


May 17, 2013, 4:01 PM
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Re: [lena_chita] how hard can a hand crack be? [In reply to]
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lena_chita wrote:
WHOSE perfect hands?

The average male's hands. That is why you see some women cruise 5.11 at the creek while flail on some 5.10s.


sonso45


May 20, 2013, 9:33 AM
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Re: [deschamps1000] how hard can a hand crack be? [In reply to]
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My hardest size is .75 camalot. That's knuckles on my fist. I usually try to layback. Gold camalots are usually easier but I recently found an overhanging hand crack that is difficult.


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