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Lifting weights and the effect on climbing
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UpToTheOzone


May 21, 2013, 1:31 AM
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Lifting weights and the effect on climbing
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I'm currently living in a state and living a lifestyle where I don't get to climb more than once a week. That being said I've got a nice gym at my disposal (no climbing gym though). My primary goals are to become more flexible and to prevent injuries, while climbing, snowboarding, and just daily activity.

I currently am doing Yoga to improve flexibility, and I'm surprised at the muscular endurance and core building benefits that I am receiving as well. I've been lifting 2-3 times a week and doing yoga 1-2 times a week lately. I'm not necessarily trying to gain weight, but I've put on 10 lbs in the last 2 months. This is probably a combination of lifting and working a real job instead of being a ski bum and eating pbj sandwiches and clif bars exclusively.

Anyways, aside from losing finger strength, what effects will I likely see as I gain muscle? I've always had trouble gaining weight, so I'm hoping to keep it on and turn it all into muscle. I'm 6 feet tall and currently weight 178.

For anyone else who lifts on a regular basis, what exercises do you do? I've been working my core a lot... I feel like there's no such thing as having too strong of abs and they're great for stabilizing / preventing injury. I've been working my chest for opposition to my back, and also trying to avoid "the climbers hunch." And of course I've been working my legs so that long approaches and descents can be managed more easily with less of a chance for injury.

Anything I'm missing here? The descent is my least favorite part of multipitch, no lie I'd take a 10+ pitch rap over a 3rd class or worse descent


johnwesely


May 21, 2013, 7:17 AM
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Re: [UpToTheOzone] Lifting weights and the effect on climbing [In reply to]
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6 foot 180 is already pretty heavy.


shimanilami


May 21, 2013, 12:50 PM
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Re: [UpToTheOzone] Lifting weights and the effect on climbing [In reply to]
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It sounds to me like you spend too much time in a gym and not enough time doing the things you actually want to improve at. Being fit is, of course, better than being unfit; however, the benefits to your climbing will be tangential at best.

Sorry to tell you, but if you want improve your performance in the vertical realm, then you need to spend more time there.


Partner rgold


May 22, 2013, 9:52 AM
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Re: [UpToTheOzone] Lifting weights and the effect on climbing [In reply to]
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A lot of people have found a modified crossfit-style weight-training program to be an effective training tool for alpine climbing. Such programs emphasize multiple full-body exercises done at intervals that tax aerobic capacity.

The benefits of such a program for, say, high-level sport climbing are nil and may even be negative.

Classical body-building is nearly worthless for climbing, and if you are one of those people who can gain weight doing this, it is counterproductive.

If you want to get better at rock climbing and can't make it to a climbing gym and can't climb outside, then your best bet is a relatively small number of exercises for shoulder health, perhaps a little leg work if you are otherwise sedentary, a little body-weight training such as uneven grip pullups, some elementary flexibility exercises, and the rest of the time invested in good hangboard routines.

You also don't seem to understand the basics. It is the chest muscles that pull the shoulders forward into the classic hunched position. Working your chest more will, of course, only exacerbate this. Suffice it to say that posture is a complicated subject and chest exercises are not the answer. I'll leave the details to those on this site with far more expertise than I have.


johnwesely


May 22, 2013, 1:29 PM
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Re: [rgold] Lifting weights and the effect on climbing [In reply to]
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Anecdotal evidence I know, but my posture improved dramatically after I started lifting weights and doing chest work.


Partner rgold


May 22, 2013, 1:30 PM
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Re: [johnwesely] Lifting weights and the effect on climbing [In reply to]
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Maybe so, but it wasn't the chest work that did it.


johnwesely


May 22, 2013, 1:33 PM
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Re: [rgold] Lifting weights and the effect on climbing [In reply to]
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rgold wrote:
Maybe so, but it wasn't the chest work that did it.

I am choosing to withhold judgement one way or another, but aesthetically, having a larger chest makes me appear to have better posture even when I am slouching. I attribute most of the better posture to actively changing the way I hold myself, but the chest work certainly did not make my posture worse.


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