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jpfricot


May 21, 2013, 12:39 PM
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Rack Suggestions
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So, I currently have a whole bunch of passive pro... 2 sets of nuts, a set of micro nuts, 5 tricams and 8 hexes.i got them all from a trusted climbing partner.
I also have a good 50m rope, grigri, belay plate, trango equalizer, lots of anchor webbing and a stack of locking biners (for anchors) and now i'm looking to complete my rack (or most of it)

Here is what i'm looking at purchasing:

BD Camalot C4s 0.3-4 (with matching neutrinos)
60cm slings x10
12cm slings x2
wiregate biners for trad draws x22
biners for racking x8 (or so)

any suggestions?
Thanks


sbaclimber


May 21, 2013, 1:01 PM
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Re: [jpfricot] Rack Suggestions [In reply to]
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BD Camalot C4s 0.3-4 (with matching neutrinos) = check (type of, or even single 'biner for racking = irrelevant)
60cm slings x10 = check
12cm slings x2 = meh, I wouldn't bother, (IMO just get 2 more 60cm)
wiregate biners for trad draws x22 = check (weightwise, wiregate is good. pricewise, you can save on the non-rope end...)
biners for racking x8 (or so) = check (IMO non-keylock)


(This post was edited by sbaclimber on May 21, 2013, 1:04 PM)


vinnie83


May 21, 2013, 1:38 PM
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Re: [jpfricot] Rack Suggestions [In reply to]
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Unless you're planning on climbing a lot of splitter desert cracks you might look into another option for cams in the .3, .4, and maybe even .5 C4 range. Small C4s tend to have a very wide head and are not as versatile in some types of rock.


jp_sucks


May 21, 2013, 4:48 PM
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Re: [vinnie83] Rack Suggestions [In reply to]
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IMO, I'd agree with other options for the .3 and .4

I think the .5 Camalot is usually the tipping point for me on C4 vs another option.


bearbreeder


May 21, 2013, 4:50 PM
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Re: [jpfricot] Rack Suggestions [In reply to]
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jpfricot wrote:
So, I currently have a whole bunch of passive pro... 2 sets of nuts, a set of micro nuts, 5 tricams and 8 hexes.i got them all from a trusted climbing partner.
I also have a good 50m rope, grigri, belay plate, trango equalizer, lots of anchor webbing and a stack of locking biners (for anchors) and now i'm looking to complete my rack (or most of it)

Here is what i'm looking at purchasing:

BD Camalot C4s 0.3-4 (with matching neutrinos)
60cm slings x10
12cm slings x2
wiregate biners for trad draws x22
biners for racking x8 (or so)

any suggestions?
Thanks

1. where are you climbing? ... ask LOCAL climbers what gear works best for em

2. have you tried the different cams yet? ... find partners with racks and use their gear ... find out what you like ... it comes down to personal preference and where you climb

not what someone on the intrawebs youve never and dont even know if they really climb alot tells ya Wink


acorneau


May 21, 2013, 5:06 PM
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Re: [jpfricot] Rack Suggestions [In reply to]
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I'll toss in my two cents...


jpfricot wrote:
So, I currently have a whole bunch of passive pro... 2 sets of nuts, a set of micro nuts,...

One set of nuts should be good for many routes. I doubled up with offset nuts (DMM Peenuts and Alloy Offsets) although for the areas where I climb the most I find that I don't use them that much.


In reply to:
5 tricams and 8 hexes.i got them all from a trusted climbing partner.

I keep 3 small Tricams (black, pink, red) and three large (#5, 6, and 7) in my bag and rack them as needed. The larger ones are excellent light-weight alternatives to the big expensive/heavy cams that you'll most likely use infrequently.

I never carry hexes for leading.


In reply to:
I also have a good 50m rope, grigri, belay plate, trango equalizer, lots of anchor webbing and a stack of locking biners (for anchors) and now i'm looking to complete my rack (or most of it)

Depending where you climb you might consider getting a 60m (or even a 70m) rope.


In reply to:
Here is what i'm looking at purchasing:

BD Camalot C4s 0.3-4 (with matching neutrinos)
60cm slings x10
12cm slings x2
wiregate biners for trad draws x22
biners for racking x8 (or so)

C4's: they're fine, just remember there are other options out there that may be more to your liking if you're willing to give them a chance.

Slings: I've ended up settling into a rig of 6-60's, 6-30's and 2-120's of the BW Titan slings all of which may or may not be carried on a given climb. I found the variety in sling length to be helpful. I don't carry any sport draws on trad climbs so the 12" (30cm) end up being my most used size.

Wiregates: good call, although I only put one biner on each sling and carry 8-10 extras that get deployed as needed for nuts or Tricams that don't have their own racking biner. I don't need two biners on a sling when 75% of the time I'm adding it to a cam which already has one.

As you build your rack and try out different systems you'll find what works for you and adapt your rack to your preferences.

Good luck with your search.


Partner climbinginchico


May 21, 2013, 9:54 PM
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Re: [jpfricot] Rack Suggestions [In reply to]
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jpfricot wrote:
So, I currently have a whole bunch of passive pro... 2 sets of nuts, a set of micro nuts, 5 tricams and 8 hexes.i got them all from a trusted climbing partner.
I also have a good 50m rope, grigri, belay plate, trango equalizer, lots of anchor webbing and a stack of locking biners (for anchors) and now i'm looking to complete my rack (or most of it)

Here is what i'm looking at purchasing:

BD Camalot C4s 0.3-4 (with matching neutrinos)
60cm slings x10
12cm slings x2
wiregate biners for trad draws x22
biners for racking x8 (or so)

any suggestions?
Thanks


My two cents...

I might go with something else for the smaller cams, perhaps a set of mastercams, the new X4's, new aliens, etc. below the .4 or .5 C4 size. I personally carry a full set of aliens from blue/black to Orange (.75 C4 size), C4's down to .4, and a set of C3's. I didn't much care for the mastercams, and have yet to play with the X4, so try before you buy. I rack mine on Nano23's to save weight, but some of my partners don't care for the small size and worry about dropping them. The Nanos are half the weight of the hotwires I had for years.

The 30cm slings will be fairly useless. Get the 60cm slings and make them into trad draws, and I would recommend getting 2-4 120cm slings. They're nice for when you need to really extend a piece on a wandering pitch. I tend to link pitches together a lot so I carry a lot of slings, usually 12-16 with 4 long slings. I prefer the skinny Mammut slings, but also have had the BD 10mm slings. They're both good. I don't like bulkier nylon slings for trad draws. I do usually carry one or two 60cm nylon slings over my shoulder on longer routes- you never know when you might want to use it for a rap, knob tie off, etc.

I carry all wiregates except for my lockers. I just went light and replaced all my hotwires with CAMP photon wires. Very light and easy clipping. REI has them on sale too for under $6 each. Get two per trad draw (obviously) and I got one straight wiregate and one bent wiregate. My miscellaneous biners are a mix of my old ones since it's just a handful of random biners. I have hotwires, some BD ovalwires, positron keylock and a couple booty biners for leavers.


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