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what do do with those round holds (technique)
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socrats


May 26, 2013, 9:08 PM
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what do do with those round holds (technique)
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Went to an indoor gym for the first time and had a lot of fun.

What's the best way to deal with those half round ball type holds.

Can't seem to get a grip on them so maybe they are just for your feet or I could possibly use them to launch myself to another hold with my hand. Definitely can't maintain a grip on them with my hand for long.

Lats and forearms are sore today. good workout and fun :)


squeaka


May 27, 2013, 3:35 AM
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Re: [socrats] what do do with those round holds (technique) [In reply to]
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socrats wrote:
Went to an indoor gym for the first time and had a lot of fun.

What's the best way to deal with those half round ball type holds.

Can't seem to get a grip on them so maybe they are just for your feet or I could possibly use them to launch myself to another hold with my hand. Definitely can't maintain a grip on them with my hand for long.

Lats and forearms are sore today. good workout and fun :)
haha "slopers", they ARE hand holds but they do take some work


Marylandclimber


May 27, 2013, 8:22 AM
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Re: [socrats] what do do with those round holds (technique) [In reply to]
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There slopers, you need to palm them with your whole hand which can be hard so you need to develop open hand strength.


MarkMyWords


May 27, 2013, 2:55 PM
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Re: [socrats] what do do with those round holds (technique) [In reply to]
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Considering that, in the gym almost all holds project away from the wall, what you might consider is working your thumb hard on slopers, or "pinching" them. Your thumb has a lot more power in it than you might expect, so use it to your advantage.


JAB


May 28, 2013, 2:59 AM
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Re: [socrats] what do do with those round holds (technique) [In reply to]
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Two points:

* The easiest way is to try to use the sloper as a sidepull, which requires much less force on your hand.

* If it is not possible to use it as a sidepull, try to place yourself as much directly under the hold as possible.


camhead


May 28, 2013, 7:38 AM
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Look for little divots or edges that you might be able to crimp on sloping holds. Brush them. Chalk them. Only climb them in cold, low humidity. Learn to use balance, shoulder, and core strength. Work on your feet. Generally, the lower you keep your feet, the more you can make use of a sloper. Heelhooks, toehooks, bicycles, and any other footwork that is not simply toeing in can make slopers more secure, too.

Oh, and this exercise might make slopers feel better. Vimeo does not allow linking to a specific time, but go to the 2 minute mark. Or just watch the whole video, it will make you feel WEAK:

http://vimeo.com/66473915


sbaclimber


May 28, 2013, 12:12 PM
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Re: [camhead] what do do with those round holds (technique) [In reply to]
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camhead wrote:
Or just watch the whole video, it will make you feel WEAK:

http://vimeo.com/66473915
Holy hell!! Shocked
I started feeling weak at exaclty 0:20...and just continued to feel weaker and weaker for the duration of that video. Frown
I have always known that I was weak, but that guy is a mutant!


hyhuu


May 29, 2013, 9:27 AM
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I need some ibuprofen from just watching that video. My tendons are sore.


tagreen


Jun 3, 2013, 12:57 PM
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Oldie, but goodie from Steven Jeffrey:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=78MlribAX3Y


(This post was edited by tagreen on Jun 3, 2013, 12:58 PM)


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