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Climbing guide for Yosemite
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Novil


May 30, 2013, 7:56 AM
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Climbing guide for Yosemite
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I would like to have my first visit to Yosemite, but i need your help to know which is the best Sport climb guide for the area?
thanks


USnavy


May 30, 2013, 10:19 PM
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Re: [Novil] Climbing guide for Yosemite [In reply to]
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Yosemite is not a sport-climbing destination. There are a few sport climbs here and there, but if you are looking to clip bolts all day, Yosemite is not for you.


csproul


May 31, 2013, 5:41 AM
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Re: [USnavy] Climbing guide for Yosemite [In reply to]
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I agree that I don't really think of Yosemite as a sport climbing destination. I'm not sure I've ever done a sport climb in Yosemite. Here is the TR/sport Supertopo guide to Yosemite. Not sure what's in it, but check it out and see for yourself. I'd guess that there are dozens of threads asking the same question.
http://www.supertopo.com/...limbs-top-ropes.html


(This post was edited by csproul on May 31, 2013, 6:27 AM)


shimanilami


May 31, 2013, 11:44 AM
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Re: [Novil] Climbing guide for Yosemite [In reply to]
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Macnamara's Supertopo guidebooks for Tuolumne and the Valley are the most comprehensive ones out there (as far as I know). They are organized by area rather than "sport" vs. "trad", however, so you'll need to leaf through them to pick out the "bolts only" routes.

As others have said, you'll find that sport routes are few and far between in Yosemite.


marc801


May 31, 2013, 12:47 PM
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Re: [shimanilami] Climbing guide for Yosemite [In reply to]
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shimanilami wrote:
As others have said, you'll find that sport routes are few and far between in Yosemite.
And make sure to remember that the mere presence of bolts does not make it a sport route. Many, many routes were put in ground-up, with the leader hand drilling bolts from whatever stances they could find. This means there are bunches of bolted routes with 20, 40, 60, 80, or more foot run-outs and not clean falls. This is most evident on Glacier Point Apron, the Royal Arches slabs, and the old-school slab routes in Tuolumne Meadows. For example, Sweet Jesus on Medlicott Dome in the Meadows is "fully" bolted and "only" 5.9, but almost every crux move, usually a couple of friction steps, is at the end of a 20-30 foot run-out and the bolt is *after* the move. Angelica on the GPA has it's crux 5.9 sequence 90 feet out from the last pro. The first bolt on Misty Beethoven (10d) is 45' off the ground, with mostly 5.8/9 friction getting to it.


billcoe_


Jun 5, 2013, 12:46 PM
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Re: [marc801] Climbing guide for Yosemite [In reply to]
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Plenty of just bolted routes, but the bolts are further apart on some of them. Plenty of safer stuff left over though.

Glacier Point is a good example. You can get to the top of Lucifers Ledge after getting past the crux 5.9's and then shit your pants on a full pitch no bolts 5.7 1400' or so off the deck. A mistake on the pitch and you'll be screwed trying to get off it. You know the seriousness is ramped up when you step on something like Misty Beethoven, look up at the bolt a long way up a bunch of bright shiny polished granite, and the shoe rubber makes a squeaky noise, but some of those other routes can sucker you in. LOL.

Anyway, there is only one concession for guiding in Yosemite. http://www.yosemitepark.com/...climbing-guides.aspx

Good luck and have fun!!!!


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