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scott.nearing
Oct 15, 2012, 2:15 PM
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Hi, I'm curious about some recent bolt chopping at Seneca Rocks. Not burning issue but more than idle curiosity. I'd welcome a 'pm' if you think a reply would start a bandwidth wasting flame and troll fest.
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kennoyce
Oct 15, 2012, 2:20 PM
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scott.nearing wrote: Hi, I'm curious about some recent bolt chopping at Seneca Rocks. Not burning issue but more than idle curiosity. I'd welcome a 'pm' if you think a reply would start a bandwidth wasting flame and troll fest.
There's more info over at Mountain Project
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scott.nearing
Oct 15, 2012, 2:43 PM
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thank you, just read that thread... still in the dark, maybe someone might start an 'alt' profile and explain why. I think they owe the community that much.
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marc801
Oct 15, 2012, 3:18 PM
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scott.nearing wrote: Hi, I'm curious about some recent bolt chopping at Seneca Rocks. Not burning issue but more than idle curiosity. I'd welcome a 'pm' if you think a reply would start a bandwidth wasting flame and troll fest.
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notapplicable
Oct 16, 2012, 5:18 AM
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While people have been more restrained at seneca than other areas, convenience anchors have spread rapidly there as well. It doesn't really surprise me that someone decided to push back. History clearly shows that chopping bolts is completely unproductive but I'm still not surprised.
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markc
Oct 16, 2012, 3:40 PM
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I haven't visited Seneca in longer than I care to confess - maybe 5 years. The list from Mountain Project included Conn's West, which had newish bolts to spare the tree the last time I went down. It also included Traffic Jam. As best I can recall, that hasn't had major changes in as long as I've been climbing. If this was in protest to increased convenience anchors, why target some of the older and most-used stations?
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notapplicable
Oct 17, 2012, 5:37 AM
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If you're trying to get peoples attention, those would be the ones you'd want to chop.
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ecade
Oct 17, 2012, 1:37 PM
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markc wrote: I haven't visited Seneca in longer than I care to confess - maybe 5 years. The list from Mountain Project included Conn's West, which had newish bolts to spare the tree the last time I went down. It also included Traffic Jam. As best I can recall, that hasn't had major changes in as long as I've been climbing. If this was in protest to increased convenience anchors, why target some of the older and most-used stations?
I did Conn's west in june, I saw 2 bolts at the last belay station but they were rap bolts. There were many placement options on that ledge.
I didn't see any bolts at any other belays.
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hyhuu
Oct 17, 2012, 3:48 PM
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ecade wrote: markc wrote: I haven't visited Seneca in longer than I care to confess - maybe 5 years. The list from Mountain Project included Conn's West, which had newish bolts to spare the tree the last time I went down. It also included Traffic Jam. As best I can recall, that hasn't had major changes in as long as I've been climbing. If this was in protest to increased convenience anchors, why target some of the older and most-used stations? I did Conn's west in june, I saw 2 bolts at the last belay station but they were rap bolts. There were many placement options on that ledge. I didn't see any bolts at any other belays.
All bolts mentioned are supposed to be rap bolts but unfortunately sometimes people use them as belay bolts.
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ecade
Oct 17, 2012, 9:24 PM
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In reply to: All bolts mentioned are supposed to be rap bolts but unfortunately sometimes people use them as belay bolts.
Ah some sport climbers eh...as a sport climber first, I remember leading that pitch on Conns west, its the chimney/stemming pitch, I got onto the ledge, saw those bolts, my eyes gleamed, BOLTS! AH I trust those things, then I looked saw they were rap bolts [and remembered (in 300 Spartan scream) This Is Seneca!!!] so I slung the tree for a persona tether and built an anchor for belay (there is a kick ass bottleneck for a I think its a #11 Stopper) was my first time leading trad multipitches, I wanted to be connected to a gear anchor and something that was permanent just in case :) hence both.
but wait people are chopping the rap bolts??? So folks in Seneca are into down climbing? or I guess they're big trad climbers and don't mind leaving gear?? or what am I missing? there aren't too many trees nor are they that well spaced...
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billcoe_
Oct 30, 2012, 4:36 AM
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scott.nearing wrote: Hi, I'm curious about some recent bolt chopping at Seneca Rocks. Not burning issue but more than idle curiosity. I'd welcome a 'pm' if you think a reply would start a bandwidth wasting flame and troll fest.
Cool. Let me start by saying that I've never been to Senaca and can't even spell it. However, I've got opinions, as do everyone else here and since you asked, I'll tell you whats up. NO ONE SHOULD EVER CHOP A BOLT. EVER!!!! WHO THE FUCK? Just don't clip it JACKASS if you are so damned bothered ya pussy. People who show up after 35 year offfolks using gear on a route, just fine, and then slag in bolts cause they don't know how gear works, are trying to help. Sure, they don't know what the fuck is up, and their head smells like their asses from being stuffed up there for so long, but what the hell. DON'T CLIP THEIR NEW BOLTS IF YOU ARE SO BOTHERED TO ASKED THIS ON AN INTERNET FOR YA PUSSY .
Are the routes at Senaca bolted or gear? Nevermind. I mean what I said. TOTAL BULLSHIT THERE HEY????!!!! CHOP EVERY GODDAMNED BOLT I SAY!!!! EVERYONE CRATERS! FUCK EM I SAY. IT'S A LEARNING PROCESS.
YOU WANT MORE OF THIS? Burning like an itching hemorrhoid after a hefty Jalapeno filled burrito to spill the beans here. But I'll withhold the info for now. Re-read my post, I have it covered.
You're welcome.
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notapplicable
Oct 30, 2012, 6:21 AM
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Heh heh heh...
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scott.nearing
Nov 5, 2012, 1:38 AM
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Seems a burning issue for you. So you're welcome for the chance to rant;and thanks for all that
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USnavy
Nov 8, 2012, 8:21 AM
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billcoe_ wrote: scott.nearing wrote: Hi, I'm curious about some recent bolt chopping at Seneca Rocks. Not burning issue but more than idle curiosity. I'd welcome a 'pm' if you think a reply would start a bandwidth wasting flame and troll fest. O ONE SHOULD EVER CHOP A BOLT. EVER!!!! WHO THE FUCK? Just don't clip it JACKASS if you are so damned bothered ya pussy. People who show up after 35 year offfolks using gear on a route, just fine, and then slag in bolts cause they don't know how gear works, are trying to help. Sure, they don't know what the fuck is up, and their head smells like their asses from being stuffed up there for so long, but what the hell. DON'T CLIP THEIR NEW BOLTS IF YOU ARE SO BOTHERED TO ASKED THIS ON AN INTERNET FOR YA PUSSY .
(This post was edited by USnavy on Nov 8, 2012, 8:22 AM)
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scott.nearing
Nov 8, 2012, 10:34 PM
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FWW: I'd be anti bolt chopping; I just don't have a dog in this fight. I've only been climbing for a few years.
Just wanted to see if someone would stand up and claim their work. Go out of your way to do all that and at least anonymously explain why it was a good idea to you.
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tomcecil
Nov 15, 2012, 5:27 PM
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". Unless the bolt is going to cause access issues, it is unsafe, or it is your route, leave it the fuck alone. Bolts are not free and people put tons of time into bolting routes. If you have an issue with someone, speak to them. Chopping bolts only leads to more bolts more chopping, and punctured tires. No one wins"
I could not agree more.
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Marylandclimber
Nov 19, 2012, 2:53 PM
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If the bolt isn't on the route and is on top of the climb then there is 100% no reason to chop it if its safe because it won't have any affect on the climb itself... Then again i'm against any kind of bolt chopping.
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ArdenTao
May 2, 2013, 12:46 PM
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There are two excellent guide services at Seneca who do a pretty damn good job of maintaining the anchors there. If any bolts were installed or chopped consulting them should be a priority. Seneca is predominantly a trad area with a rich history and is very popular. There is very little room for route development and any new bolting would be met with general disapproval, and retro bolting any existing route might get you killed.
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virial
May 2, 2013, 6:17 PM
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I agree with you the guides take care of the rap stations, bolting, chopping bolts, and chipping holds will get the guides after you. And before you go putting up any new bolt routes you should talk with guides, lots of x and r rated routes are in area. There are accepted bolt routes there also.
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billcoe_
Jun 5, 2013, 8:07 PM
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I would like to recant my previous unhelpful post. Trying to be funny but it didn't come off so much so second read. There is something to be said about sharing it with locals and keeping it off the net.
Best of luck.
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ubu
Jun 6, 2013, 2:27 AM
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billcoe_ wrote: I would like to recant my previous unhelpful post. Trying to be funny but it didn't come off so much so second read. There is something to be said about sharing it with locals and keeping it off the net. Best of luck.
Well, it made me laugh...
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