|
cmn003
Jun 9, 2013, 12:19 AM
Post #1 of 35
(15024 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 9, 2013
Posts: 22
|
Please post here any shoes you can confirm any pro wearing.
For example, Chris Sharma designed the Pontas and the Shaman, but does he actually wear them?
Googling for what shoes Adam Ondra, or Alex Honnold wears yields no good results. 
And if course, ill say it so you don't have to; wearing the shoes Chris Sharma wears won't make you climb like Chris Sharma!
links and/or pictures appreciated
|
|
|
|
|
lena_chita
Moderator
Jun 9, 2013, 6:47 AM
Post #2 of 35
(14972 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 27, 2006
Posts: 6087
|
Chris Sharma definitely wears Evolv Pontas and Shamans.
Here are some pictures, quickly found online:
Alex Honnold climbs in Miuras-- again, simple image search:
You can do the same-- search for google images of any climber you consider a pro, and see what shoes they are wearing. Looking through half-dozen will get you at least one shot with a good view of the shoes.
But save yourself the trouble. Aside from complete beginner shoes, every brand and model of shoes has been worn by someone who climbs really hard and gets free gear from somewhere (loose definition of a pro).
|
|
|
|
|
Marylandclimber
Jun 9, 2013, 6:47 AM
Post #3 of 35
(14972 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 3, 2011
Posts: 224
|
It doesn't matter if he wears them or not he designed them and if people like them then they like them. Noboy is saying you'll climb like him its just if you like the shoe then wear it.
|
|
|
|
|
cmn003
Jun 9, 2013, 8:16 AM
Post #4 of 35
(14940 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 9, 2013
Posts: 22
|
Thanks! Exactly what I'm looking for.
I probably should have mentioned I've been climbing for about 7 months... I don't have quite the rock climbing shoe eagle-eye you have. But thats why I posted so thanks again! 
|
|
|
|
|
petsfed
Jun 9, 2013, 8:17 AM
Post #5 of 35
(14939 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 24, 2002
Posts: 8599
|
Lena,
In your first AH pic, he's wearing TC pros. Second pic, its actually hard to tell.
|
|
|
|
|
cmn003
Jun 9, 2013, 8:20 AM
Post #6 of 35
(14936 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 9, 2013
Posts: 22
|
Hi... see I totally get that the best shoe is the one that fits well and you like. However I live in Houston TX and our access to physical rock climbing shoes is super limited. As far as Evolv goes, in a city of 4.5 million people the only model I can find in any storefront is the Defy.
So I'm just looking for a little guidance before I start spending money to order shoes online. Seeing what pros wear just seemed like a simple way to target a few proven shoes. (But I'm also searching forums, reviews... kinda hitting it from all angles.)
|
|
|
|
|
cmn003
Jun 9, 2013, 8:22 AM
Post #7 of 35
(14935 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 9, 2013
Posts: 22
|
|
|
|
|
|
jomagam
Jun 9, 2013, 9:29 AM
Post #8 of 35
(14919 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 9, 2008
Posts: 364
|
Doesn't really matter. I heard that all Mad Rock shoes have done at least a 5.14, and very few climbers consider them top quality. Just find out what works for you and climb hard.
|
|
|
|
|
lena_chita
Moderator
Jun 9, 2013, 11:21 AM
Post #9 of 35
(14889 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 27, 2006
Posts: 6087
|
petsfed wrote: Lena, In your first AH pic, he's wearing TC pros. Second pic, its actually hard to tell.
Could very well be. The grey Miura lace-ups look very similar to TC-pro from the top.
Both La sportiva's, and I didn't spend too much time looking. :)
|
|
|
|
|
marc801
Jun 9, 2013, 11:29 AM
Post #10 of 35
(14888 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 1, 2005
Posts: 2806
|
cmn003 wrote: Hi... see I totally get that the best shoe is the one that fits well and you like.
cmn003 wrote: So I'm just looking for a little guidance before I start spending money to order shoes online. Seeing what pros wear just seemed like a simple way to target a few proven shoes that they get for free
|
|
|
|
|
cmn003
Jun 9, 2013, 5:47 PM
Post #11 of 35
(14818 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 9, 2013
Posts: 22
|
Ok so humor me... How do you suggest I select a shoe here in Houston with access to only about 5-6 models?
|
|
|
|
|
cmn003
Jun 9, 2013, 5:48 PM
Post #12 of 35
(14817 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 9, 2013
Posts: 22
|
Just saying a gotta start somewhere. Kinda shooting in the dark.
|
|
|
|
|
cmn003
Jun 10, 2013, 8:14 AM
Post #14 of 35
(14724 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 9, 2013
Posts: 22
|
Hey Allen thanks!
Id assume ordering them means id have to buy them, right? or are you saying they can order shoes for me test? That's my whole dilemma here in Houston.
(Frankly I'm vegan so I'd also like to buy Evolv, which is why my situation is a little different than most here in Houston who can just by 5.10 or La Sportiva which are in more abundance at the rock gyms / REI / Whole Earth . . . But it's looking like to get a good pair Evolv may not be an option.)
Thanks again
|
|
|
|
|
amarius
Jun 10, 2013, 10:15 AM
Post #15 of 35
(14693 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 23, 2012
Posts: 122
|
REI sells Evolv. There is REI in Houston.
I am somewhat confused by your statement it's looking like to get a good pair Evolv may not be an option
A few question to help folks in assisting you with your shoe problem - what do you climb in right now, why do you want to different shoes, what do you want out of your shoes?
|
|
|
|
|
marc801
Jun 10, 2013, 10:48 AM
Post #16 of 35
(14672 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 1, 2005
Posts: 2806
|
cmn003 wrote: Hey Allen thanks! Id assume ordering them means id have to buy them, right? or are you saying they can order shoes for me test? That's my whole dilemma here in Houston. (Frankly I'm vegan so I'd also like to buy Evolv, which is why my situation is a little different than most here in Houston who can just by 5.10 or La Sportiva which are in more abundance at the rock gyms / REI / Whole Earth . . . But it's looking like to get a good pair Evolv may not be an option.) Thanks again
For about the 18-bazillionth time.....
BRAND
DOES
NOT
MATTER!!!
And to some extent, neither does model. The *ONLY* thing that really matters is *FIT*, followed by style (low top, high top, lace vs velcro, etc) which depends on what you want to use them for and personal preference.
About the only place where brand begins to matter is if they use basically the same last across all models. For example, I've never been able to wear 5.10s because I have a high volume but very narrow foot, so I tend to stay away from 5.10s. Generally other brands fit me better. That doesn't mean that perhaps tomorrow 5.10 will produce a shoe that does fit me. What it does mean is that you shouldn't insist on, say, Evolvs because of your man-crush on Sharma or whoever.
Regarding ordering if you're in a locale that lacks retail stores - order from some place that allows returns.
And if you're avoiding certain brands because they use leather or other animal products, well.... 
|
|
|
|
|
cmn003
Jun 10, 2013, 11:19 AM
Post #17 of 35
(14661 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 9, 2013
Posts: 22
|
I have Defy's. the only Evolv shoe REI sells is Defy. I want a higher performance shoe. I prefer vegan (Evolv). (For the original purpose of this thread that didnt matter but now I'm needing to qualify that)
Like I mentioned before, I'm hitting this from all angles. I've tried on every shoe in Houston and researched so much about shoes. This was just another little piece of the puzzle I was working on. Apparently asking what shoes pros where doesn't go over very well with the rock climbing community. I'm new here, so I'm learning :). In other communities they consider what pros use as evidence of quality.
|
|
|
|
|
cmn003
Jun 10, 2013, 11:30 AM
Post #18 of 35
(14651 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 9, 2013
Posts: 22
|
"And if you're avoiding certain brands because they use leather or other animal products, well.... "
Yup. You got it.
Good to know rock climbers are passionate.
Btw - your description of you problem with 5.10 is similar to my experience with 5.10... Too narrow, especially in the toe-box I think. For example, I've found in a tight pair of 5.10 my big toe will be perfectly straight with even some room, while my other four toes are totally squished. So, can you recommend some shoes that work for you? I'm looking for an all around shoe, or maybe slightly aggressive.
|
|
|
|
|
SE_climber
Jun 10, 2013, 11:57 AM
Post #19 of 35
(14628 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 2, 2013
Posts: 31
|
Actually, there are only a few Evolv shoes that are truly vegan--many either have leather uppers or leather linings (synthetic upper but leather foot bed lining--like the shamans). Of their current line, the primes, bandits, defy vtr, and talons are their only vegan shoes.
Unless I'm missing something about Five Ten's linings (which they are less forthcoming about), Five Ten actually has more vegan shoes choices. Pretty much all of their aggressive shoes are synthetic (team, blackwing, dragon, quantum) and most of the anasazi line is synthetic as well (arrowhead, VCS, lace up, verde, blanco). The coyote canvas, stonelands lace up, and galileo are synthetic too.
I think Tenaya makes vegan shoes too. The oasi looks pretty good, but I don't think it's available yet.
|
|
|
|
|
cmn003
Jun 10, 2013, 12:06 PM
Post #20 of 35
(14618 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 9, 2013
Posts: 22
|
Wow im glad you said that about Tenaya. I've read really great things about the Ra.
|
|
|
|
|
billcoe_
Jun 10, 2013, 12:26 PM
Post #21 of 35
(14598 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 30, 2002
Posts: 4692
|
cmn003 wrote: Ok so humor me... How do you suggest I select a shoe here in Houston with access to only about 5-6 models?
I can't speak for you, what your goals are or where you climb. If it was me, I would try them all on, and wear the pair that fits best. My background is different than yours though. I've climbed for over 30 years and like long gear routes. I currently own @13 pairs of shoes of many makes and configurations. I've spent up to $160 for a pair, as little as $40. What I percieve is that there is little correlation between shoe and the grade I get up except that the grades go down if they don't fit right. Too loose or too painful are the outliers. Note that I think that rubber makes a difference, and avoid Boreal shoes (which can fit some folks real nice) for that reason. C4 and Evolv rubber both climb equally good in my view.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
cmn003
Jun 10, 2013, 1:06 PM
Post #23 of 35
(14579 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 9, 2013
Posts: 22
|
I'm not just making stuff up :). I've been to REI they only have Defys IN HOUSTON. Online they have a few more, yes, but if you click on that "find in store" button and hit Houston you'll see "not available"
For example
http://m.rei.com/mt/www.rei.com/storeProductLookup?style=830994&qty=1&colorsize=8309940001&un_jtt_v_sku=
|
|
|
|
|
cmn003
Jun 10, 2013, 1:11 PM
Post #24 of 35
(14578 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 9, 2013
Posts: 22
|
Thanks for your experienced advise. So far the only shoes I've found in Houston that fit me "quite right" are a la Sportiva, which is unfortunately a super aggressive one, and a Scarpa. The Scarpa felt really good actually... Do you have any experience on them and their rubber? (It was the "reflex" model)
|
|
|
|
|
cmn003
Jun 10, 2013, 1:42 PM
Post #25 of 35
(14559 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 9, 2013
Posts: 22
|
if you're done trying to tell me what my local REI down the street from that I visit all the time has in stock... I'd still love to hear your recommendation on shoes that fit you well, since it sounds like you have a similar problem with 5.10 as I do.
|
|
|
|
|
|
1
