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Q: Scarpa Omega boot
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Partner kimgraves


Apr 30, 2006, 4:25 PM
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Q: Scarpa Omega boot
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Hi Gang,

I need a warmer boot than my Scarpa Freney XT's for Mt Washington. I tried a pair of Kofach Degrees but they didn't fit my feet. Supposedly the Scarpa Omega has a wide fit, walks well, and is warm. Anyone have experience with this boot?

Thanks, Kim


squeakyclimber


Apr 30, 2006, 6:22 PM
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Dude , who are you? Have you ever tried climbing ice in the alphas? Oh, wait, they rock and If you aren't a f'n pansy they are warm enough. I have had mine down to -5 (I had a thermometer) up on longs in the winter, No Problem. I have used them on tons of alpine routes throughout Colorado. But of course all my gear must be shiny because I like having a technical boot on technical terrain.


Did she even ask about the Alphas? Nope.

(this isn't a response to the post, just to agent posting nonsense hearsay)

Peace

-Eric


beefy


Apr 30, 2006, 8:30 PM
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I have a pair of the alphas with thermo mouldable liners. Used em on Amadablam late October and the toes were nice and toasty. The boots are great with a reasonable amount of dexterity compared to other plastics. the omegas are apparently an improvement over the alphas.
Marko prezel (sp?) climbs in them on quite technical stuff.
-R


Partner kimgraves


Jul 26, 2006, 5:01 PM
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Hi Gang,

I'm gonna bump this one back up and see if anyone got a chance to try out the Scarpa OMEGA's last season. I defered my purchace and so back in the market for "somethin' that will do me."

Thanks,

Kim


crackers


Jul 27, 2006, 5:55 AM
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Do you still have the Expes? Have you considered calling http://www.intuitionsports.com/ and asking them about your problem? Their liners might well alleviate the problem...


Partner kimgraves


Jul 27, 2006, 6:25 AM
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In reply to:
Do you still have the Expes?

Hi Graham,

Degre's actually.... No I rented from IME. If I could find a cheap pair of shells on ebay I might try the Intuition liners. I got some material from them, cut it to the size of my foot and use it in the bottom of my boots. VERY useful.

Kim


mrodaddy


Jul 27, 2006, 7:16 AM
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For what it's worth, I have used a pair of Degres with Morrow (made by Intuition) liners for the past year (Cordillera Blanca and Mt. Baker) and they've worked out very well. Fit is made nearly perfect with the thermomolding and the boots are extremely (if not too) warm.

From what I hear (and this is not from direct experience, but from another guy's report on his boots), the Omegas are extremely comfortable and perform great, but seem to have a problem with the liners falling apart around the upper ankle area (he was on his second set and they had already started falling apart). Supposedly, this is something that was being fixed by Scarpa. Again, I don't have direct experience with this, but it's something you might want to inquire about if the Omegas remain a consideration.

Good luck finding something that works. Cheers.


mankypin


Aug 31, 2006, 12:14 PM
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Kim,

I've compared the Omegas and the Alphas and don't really notice a difference in fit or performance. One is very red the other is not, same thermo-fit liners and superior performance on mixed alpine routes and steep steep ice. I'm into my second pair of Alphas and they've never disappointed me. Cold feet suck, and I've never had that problem in AK or playing on ice at 12-14K here in colorado. I'm not surprised that the Aussie was using em on Ama Dablam, they are a great double boot, easy to dry over night and climb much like a leather type. I'd climb them at any altitude with some brooks rangers above 14. If you can get em cheap with the thermo-fits, all the better.


stymingersfink


Aug 31, 2006, 6:44 PM
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didn't a couple guys do some FA's last summer down in queen maude land wearing the Alphas?

Oh yeah, Mike Libecki and Josh Helling did. I seem to recall they returned with all of their toes, too. :wink:

If you need a little extra warmth for an expedition, a pair of Alveolite liners should do the trick. Of course, proper foot care is key too, but then you knew that.


builttospill


Nov 6, 2006, 6:16 AM
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Partially just to revive this thread to see if anyone has had a chance to use these boots, I'm posting this question here....

my local shop has the omegas for $400-$440 (can't remember which).

Alaska Mountaineering and Hiking has them for $340 online. I'm tempted to buy them local, from a shop I trust, since durability may be a concern (also cause I like the guys at the shop, they're nice to me and all that). I know the size I need already, but if durability becomes an issue (or the size IS wrong somehow), is AMH pretty good about timely returns/reshipments/whatever? Or should I stick to local and spend more (will be $60 more, since I'll get thermoliners for free instead of spending $40 if I buy at the shop).

And anyone used these lately and have an opinion?


redpoint73


Nov 6, 2006, 6:29 AM
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Mt. Washington? You can climb it in a day.

I use my leather Asolo ice boots that I bought for $99 at Sierra Trading Post for Mt. Washington.

Why spend $400 on that trip?


Partner kimgraves


Nov 6, 2006, 7:18 AM
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In reply to:
Mt. Washington? You can climb it in a day.

I use my leather Asolo ice boots that I bought for $99 at Sierra Trading Post for Mt. Washington.

Why spend $400 on that trip?

Everyone has a different metabolism and a different history. 25 years ago I too tried to climb in the Whites in leather boots. I froze my feet and they never recovered. I've used my Scarpa Franey XT's for early season, but late season I need double boots. $400 seems cheap to protect an asset as irreplaceable as the nerves in my toes. But if leather boots work for you, then by all means use them. They don't work for me.

Best, Kim


stymingersfink


Nov 7, 2006, 6:36 PM
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In reply to:
Partially just to revive this thread to see if anyone has had a chance to use these boots, I'm posting this question here....

my local shop has the omegas for $400-$440 (can't remember which).

Alaska Mountaineering and Hiking has them for $340 online. I'm tempted to buy them local, from a shop I trust, since durability may be a concern (also cause I like the guys at the shop, they're nice to me and all that). I know the size I need already, but if durability becomes an issue (or the size IS wrong somehow), is AMH pretty good about timely returns/reshipments/whatever? Or should I stick to local and spend more (will be $60 more, since I'll get thermoliners for free instead of spending $40 if I buy at the shop).

And anyone used these lately and have an opinion?

I wouldn't worry too much about durability, as by the time they start to fall apart they'll be loooong past warranty. IF there is an issue in the first year or two, you'll need to send them to Scarpa anyway.

As far as the online vs. local shop thing goes, I will always suggest you support your local climbing shop. When the staff and clientel say "NORM" at your entrance (or "BUILT" in your case) you'll know that service will never be an issue. When I was working retail there were many customers who were known on a first name/current project basis who regularly got ten-percent off or better, without even asking for it. This was due in part to their loyalty to the local shop.

In the mean time, perhaps you might ask them to split the difference in price? Be prepared to show them the page where the price can be found, and make sure it's legit too. It's easy to put a sale price on boots in size 13 when it's the last pair in stock, if you catch my drift.

It can't hurt, the worst they can say is "Sorry, no." OTOH, if you do this too often you run the risk of becoming "That Guy" who's such a pain in the ass no employee will feel like volunteering the good deals to, so use the above suggestion sparingly.


builttospill


Nov 8, 2006, 6:57 AM
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eh, not really my thing, sty......don't want to be "that guy" and besides, I'm not one to ask for things people shouldn't have to give..... :wink:

full retail is fine with me....if I'm not willing to pay it, I'll buy mail-order, but I shoudln't expect a mail-order kind of price from a shop that's fitting me, doing the thermo-liners for free, and being nice while they're at it.

I'm just still debating on whether the omegas are what I want at the moment and my old boots are holding up okay for now in the mild temps.


skinner


Nov 13, 2006, 11:28 PM
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Re: [kimgraves] Q: Scarpa Omega boot [In reply to]
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Kimgraves asks about Omegas.. and everyone responds about Alphas Sly

I just got a pair of OMEGA's (not alphas) There is a big difference between the two, although at first glance the differences may seem subtle. As far as I understand.. the Alphas are a pure nylon shell, where the Omegas are Pebax® and not "PEEBAX" like 99% of the websites state. Here is more then you ever wanted to know about Pebax®

In reply to:
Pebax®
http://www.arkema-inc.com/index.cfm?pag=356

Pebax®
http://www.pebaxpowered.com/specifications.html


The use of Pebax® has been a major factor in the new generation of light weight mountaineering boots. It's the very low density of Pebax® that has made it the #1 choice of materials of top end moutaineering boots. Pebax® is ideal for outsoles, offering resilience to repeated stress, along with resistance to distortion and deformation. Pebax® offers great flexibility and maximum strength where you need support, flexibility where you need movement. Pebax® grades can be combined within a single component to provide stiffness at one end, flexibility at the other. Controlled flexibility that governs the movement of the shoe and returns it to its original shape at each stride.

Dampening shock absorbance
Due to the inheient amount of kicking involved in climbing steep galcier or water formed ice, the degree of shock and vibrations transmitted through boots used for such endevours is unusually high comapared with other forms of outdoor footware.
Pebax® is the ideal material for this application as it can absorb much of the shock and vibrations normally experienced. Dampening shock absorbance in sports equipment improves control and increases enjoyment.

Cold Resistant
Unlike leather and many other nylons and plastics, Pebax® doesn't stiffen in cold weather. Pebax® retains it's mechanical properties (strength and impact resistance) and resilience under frigid conditions (-40°C).


Resiliency
Pebax® is an ideal material for high performance athletic shoes and equipment. Exceptional compression and fatigue resistance make Pebax® the best choice
for outsoles where high strength and support are needed at low density.
Premium golf balls exploit Pebax® high resistance to deformation and excellent compressive strength. Pebax® in various core technologies offers excellent resistance to permanent deformation, which can improve distance and ball flight.


High Strength
Pebax® can be injected into very low thickness parts allowing for lighter weight components that have the supeirior properties to that of traditional thicker/heavier materials used in outdoor footware manufacturing.

Easy processing
Pebax® polyether block amides are plasticizer-free thermoplastic elastomers belonging to the engineering polymer family. They are easy to process by injection molding and profile or film extrusion. Pebax® can achieve a wide range of physical and mechanical properties by varying the monomeric block types and ratios.

Pebax® can be easily melt blended with other polymers. It offers a good resistance to most chemicals and a large ability to be impregnated with fragrances. (now there's an idea for a few of my partners boots!)

"..the new sleek, close fitting profile improves lightness and sensitivity; the thermoplastic insert in carbon fibre strengthens the boot without adding weight; the asymmetric position of the lacing and the closure of the tongue assure natural movement; the special Pebax (inserts reduce heel pressure. The whole structure – shell, cuff, tongue and closure system – works in harmony to assist the dynamic movements of the foot while wearing crampons. "

Blah, Blah, Blah... but compared to any other plastic boot I have owned/used, it's definitely the closest feeling to a leather boot I have ever walked in. The first thing I noticed is how light they are @ 1860g pair, which is lighter then my leather boots. The other obvious thing is how small the profile is for a double boot, I actually had to adjust my crampons smaller then they're set for my leather boots. Someone mentioned -5 degree temps.. I really am hoping for more like -40, but haven't had a chance to test the temp. rating because it just hasn't been that cold yet. I did read.. not sure if this is the same person as posted earlier or not.. this is from UKClimbing.com
In reply to:
"by - jonah jones on - 11 Oct 2006
In reply to drumming_ronnie:
Used a pair on Ama Dablam last Nov / Dec. Found them very comfortable, light, and warm. Also were suprisingly delicate on the rock climbing bits.

I up'ed the warmth by adding the top rated scapa insoles, two pairs of thick socks, and terragaiters (these also helped to cover up the god awful colour).
"
Can't say I'm in love with the color either Unsure
But Ama Dablam..Damn! one of the most aesthetic peaks in the world IMHO.
The only complaints I have heard seem to be related to the longevity of the liners, which as previously mentioned, some have gone to the intuition liners.
Here's another comment from UKClimbing.com:
In reply to:
"by - TradBrad on - 11 Oct 2006
In reply to drumming_ronnie:

Got a pair and lived in them for 10 days winter ice on the South Island of New Zealand. Super warm, climb beautifully and walk very comfortably (some long approaches).

My only grip is that the liners are already shot! I have sent them back to Scarpa for replacement. Basically the liner foam separated at around the ankle bone but was still held together by the liner fabric.

My recommendation is replace the factory ones with Intuition liners if you can get a pair.

That said, I'm still very happy with mine (for ice)."

I honestly haven't had a chance to climb anything substantial in them yet, but have walked, bush-whacked, and scrambled quite a few miles in them and they are by far the lightest, most comfortable plastic boots I have worn yet. I'll let you know what I think of them on steep, technical ice and cold temps in a few weeks with any luck.
Hope this helps some.

-Kevin


skinner


Nov 17, 2006, 8:39 PM
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I thought I would add something to this (as if I haven't said enough already)
I can't seem to find it, maybe it disappeared with the rest of the old content, but I remember reading a comment in one of the threads about the Omega's, where someone said that it seemed like the Omega's had extremely high arches. I remember this because I thought the same thing when I first tried a pair on. I figured either that or I had developed flat feet!
Anyway.. to make a long story even longer, I had my liners molded today in one of the Scarpa convection oven thingy's and the high arch syndrome completely disappeared. Just when I thought they couldn't get anymore comfortable.. they are unbelievable now. Walking in them compared to the Alphas, is like waking in running shoes compared to ski boots. Scarpa claims to have taken care of the original durability issue that people were experiencing with the liners, I guess I'll find out soon enough.


skinner


Nov 23, 2006, 11:27 AM
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Re: [kimgraves] Q: Scarpa Omega boot [In reply to]
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I am monopolizing an old thread I know, but I thought that anyone considering Omegas, might be interested in this.

I have read in various threads, complaints about the Omega liners wearing out in 10-days, two weeks, etc. After having my liners thermally molded I was inspecting them closely and noticed a few areas where the stitching appeared to be sub-standard. So I contacted Scarpa who replied the same day and were more then willing to exchange my liners of warranty if there was a problem. I sent them photos of the areas I was concerned about along with links to the forums where people had poor experiences with the liners.

Scarpa again replied the same day with the following

Kevin- Thanks for the background story. >From your photos I can make a clear diagnosis: this is NOT the issue you’ve heard of online. The issue we’ve had with a small number of Omega liners was near the ankle and did not involve ANY seams. It appears that some of the layers of foam are visible within the boundaries of the seaming juncture. This is fairly common (the foam is 4 layers laminated together) and is NOT cause for alarm. Additionally, the outer layer can shift a bit during the molding process, depending on the heat applied during molding and how they are inserted into the shells. This should result in no ill-effects. I suggest you go out and use the heck out of these. If you experience any stitching failure we will gladly perform a warranty evaluation.

No worries- go climbing!


Apparently they HAD an issue with the cuffs on some if the early boots that were shipped, but the problem was identified and had since been corrected.

BTW.. I finally got a chance to climb some grade 3-4 ice in mine last Sunday, and absolutely love them. Traditionally the first ice of the season has been a killer for me as the muscles are just not in condition after a summer or rock. But they felt great, a huge difference dropping so much weight off of my feet/legs.

I give them ***** stars!

-Kevin


Partner kimgraves


Nov 23, 2006, 2:45 PM
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Keven,

The more info the better, dude! No need for apologies. Thanks for posting up.

I'm certainly going to try on the Omega's and see if I can get a good fit.

I do want to point to Andy Kirkpatrick's recommendation of a new sock from RBH Designs. Here's his review. I've ordered a pair hoping I can combine them with my Scarpa Freney's and be good enough for an overnight on Washington. (A $42 solution vs. $350 for boots) Matt and I are hoping to go up for Christmas. Even though it will be early season I should get a good idea if they'll work. I had an interesting talk with the customer service women when I ordered the socks. RBH seems to be a small two person operation that really believes in their products. Worth a look. I'll post up a review after I use them.

Best, Kim


(This post was edited by kimgraves on Nov 23, 2006, 2:49 PM)


Ak99654


Dec 4, 2007, 6:55 PM
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In regard to purchasing online from AMH

1) AMH is your local climbing shop if you come up to Alaska

2) You'll be lucky if the accept returns of any kind on anything.


semicolin


Sep 10, 2008, 10:33 PM
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I didn't get much response in the "gear" section (except from kimgraves- thanks!), so I'm going to bump this from a looong time ago. Might be bad etiquette, but here it is:

Anyone have experience with the Omegas? My usual street shoe size is US men's 8. I have Scarpa T3 Tele boots in mondo size 25.5 that are a bit tight, but OK for skiing and I have La Sportiva Makalus in size 42, which converts to larger than my street shoe size, but La Sportivas tend to run narrow. Living in New Mexico, I don't get a chance to try these on, so are there any recommendations about the fit of these boots?

Thanks mucho.


dezz


Jun 9, 2013, 5:00 AM
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Hope you guys won't be super upset bout me digging this fossil out Crazy

Could you please help out with IDing the liners from what i gathered on internet there are older intuitions that fell apart and the new ones that are piece of art...

Could someone help out pointing out which of two from attached pics are the new ones?
Attachments: OMEGA1.JPG (115 KB)
  DSC_0624.JPG (123 KB)


semicolin


Jun 9, 2013, 8:47 PM
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If it helps, I have the simple sock type with the velcro around the ankle and they haven't fallen apart. I've used the Scarpa Omegas since the winter of '08-'09, only a few times a year and maybe hiked/climbed a total of 50 miles in them over the years. I never got them thermo-fitted.


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