|
squeaka
Jun 14, 2013, 10:08 AM
Post #1 of 13
(6647 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 28, 2005
Posts: 19
|
I did a quick search and came up with nought.
Why are there so many different types of carabiners. and what is there different function in climbing?
I get the big locking gate biners for belaying, and the smaller ones on quick draws. but what are all the other types for?
solid gates, wire gates, "D" shaped oval shaped Droplet shaped?
|
|
|
|
|
ChaseLeoncini
Jun 14, 2013, 12:48 PM
Post #2 of 13
(6602 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 6, 2013
Posts: 33
|
Some biners are better for certain things. One example might be using an oval carabiner to rack wires. Some prefer racking with other types such as pear or D. Ovals can also be used to make back-up rappel devices and i am sure they are great for many other things. I just don't use them. IMO these are the most useless. Of course, many would disagree.
The bent gates are for ease of clipping into.
The wire gates are to safeguard against flutter. To demonstrate this, take a regular carabiner and smack it against your hand. You should hear it open. Now take a wire gate biner and do the same thing. Quiet.
Gates opening is the number one cause of biner failure. Hence this design.
I'm sure others will comment more on what else other carabiners are good for but there is a quick answer for you.
(This post was edited by ChaseLeoncini on Jun 14, 2013, 12:51 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
marc801
Jun 14, 2013, 5:43 PM
Post #3 of 13
(6523 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 1, 2005
Posts: 2806
|
ChaseLeoncini wrote: Some biners are better for certain things. One example might be using an oval carabiner to rack wires. Some prefer racking with other types such as pear or D. Ovals can also be used to make back-up rappel devices and i am sure they are great for many other things. I just don't use them. IMO these are the most useless. Of course, many would disagree. The bent gates are for ease of clipping into. The wire gates are to safeguard against flutter. To demonstrate this, take a regular carabiner and smack it against your hand. You should hear it open. Now take a wire gate biner and do the same thing. Quiet. Gates opening is the number one cause of biner failure. Hence this design. I'm sure others will comment more on what else other carabiners are good for but there is a quick answer for you.
|
|
|
|
|
jeepnphreak
Jun 14, 2013, 5:56 PM
Post #4 of 13
(6513 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 29, 2008
Posts: 1259
|
-Key lock ovals for racking stopper (kong),
-Wire gates for alpine draws and cams(neutrienos)
-Solid streight gate one end and a solid bent gate on the other for my sport draws(spirits).
-Key nose lockers for sport anchors(positron),
-large HMS for belaying (willams).
-Large pacificOmega wire gates that are easy to use with gloves for ice climbing, but too big for rockclimbing.
and many more options bepending on what feels/works best for you.
|
|
|
|
|
ChaseLeoncini
Jun 14, 2013, 5:57 PM
Post #5 of 13
(6510 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 6, 2013
Posts: 33
|
Yes, they are very useful for aid as well. They can be flipped around easy, they don't get in the way of other carabiners while clipped, they weight in the center nicely and I'm sure there is much more great about them... oh they're cheaper! Sweet.
But, i dislike their strength and weight in comparison to other stronger/lighter carabiners and the gate space being so minimal when opened annoys me. They have their use, like every piece of gear, don't get me wrong. I just prefer others while not aiding. I haven't done any big walls yet (unfortunately) but i am sure they are useful there, also.
|
|
|
|
|
majid_sabet
Jun 14, 2013, 10:52 PM
Post #6 of 13
(6447 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 13, 2002
Posts: 8390
|
many climbers act like girls in shopping malls and they think few ounces of weight difference and fancy biner look will make them fly faster while eating fat food at local in-out burger forgetting about added weight .. while biner manufactures are making money marking biner that are very much offer same beefy rating
in reality, they are all the same
|
|
|
|
|
majid_sabet
Jun 15, 2013, 3:39 AM
Post #8 of 13
(6394 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 13, 2002
Posts: 8390
|
curt wrote: majid_sabet wrote: many climbers act like girls in shopping malls and they think few ounces of weight difference and fancy biner look will make them fly faster while eating fat food at local in-out burger forgetting about added weight... Everybody knows it's not the biners that make you climb faster... [image]http://www.rockclimbing.com/images/photos/assets/1/193151-largest_29286.jpg[/image] It's the lycra  Curt
where is this crack ?
|
|
|
|
|
jt512
Jun 15, 2013, 4:51 AM
Post #9 of 13
(6377 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904
|
curt wrote: majid_sabet wrote: many climbers act like girls in shopping malls and they think few ounces of weight difference and fancy biner look will make them fly faster while eating fat food at local in-out burger forgetting about added weight... Everybody knows it's not the biners that make you climb faster...  It's the lycra
I contend that the lycra is the reason you have no climbing partner in this photograph.
|
|
|
|
|
jt512
Jun 15, 2013, 4:54 AM
Post #10 of 13
(6374 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904
|
majid_sabet wrote: curt wrote: majid_sabet wrote: many climbers act like girls in shopping malls and they think few ounces of weight difference and fancy biner look will make them fly faster while eating fat food at local in-out burger forgetting about added weight... Everybody knows it's not the biners that make you climb faster... It's the lycra Curt where is this crack ?
Which crack? Be more specific.
|
|
|
|
|
curt
Jun 15, 2013, 11:19 PM
Post #11 of 13
(6323 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 27, 2002
Posts: 18275
|
majid_sabet wrote: curt wrote: majid_sabet wrote: many climbers act like girls in shopping malls and they think few ounces of weight difference and fancy biner look will make them fly faster while eating fat food at local in-out burger forgetting about added weight... Everybody knows it's not the biners that make you climb faster... It's the lycra Curt where is this crack ?
It's in Joshua Tree.
Curt
|
|
|
|
|
kiwiprincess
Jun 16, 2013, 8:57 PM
Post #12 of 13
(6219 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 26, 2007
Posts: 307
|
Oval- Good for pulley or Ascenders as will hang straight down
D -really strong as force Goes down spine
Pear/HMS -good for a itailian hitch belay as wont jam in corner. Also if you need Lots of space( eg clip in point on anchor for several people, or gear.)
Wire gates don't freeze closed as much in alpine environment.
Solid gate- More comfy, quality spring back.
I usually have mainly D's. I put prussicks on a pear so I have it should I ever drop my belay device. I keep oval attched to ascenders etc so they come with the gear they are useful for.
(This post was edited by kiwiprincess on Jun 16, 2013, 9:00 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
|
