Forums: Climbing Information: Gear Heads:
Different Biners
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Gear Heads

Premier Sponsor:

 


squeaka


Jun 14, 2013, 3:08 AM
Post #1 of 13 (1822 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 27, 2005
Posts: 18

Different Biners
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I did a quick search and came up with nought.

Why are there so many different types of carabiners. and what is there different function in climbing?

I get the big locking gate biners for belaying, and the smaller ones on quick draws. but what are all the other types for?
solid gates, wire gates, "D" shaped oval shaped Droplet shaped?


ChaseLeoncini


Jun 14, 2013, 5:48 AM
Post #2 of 13 (1777 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 6, 2013
Posts: 33

Re: [squeaka] Different Biners [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Some biners are better for certain things. One example might be using an oval carabiner to rack wires. Some prefer racking with other types such as pear or D. Ovals can also be used to make back-up rappel devices and i am sure they are great for many other things. I just don't use them. IMO these are the most useless. Of course, many would disagree.
The bent gates are for ease of clipping into.
The wire gates are to safeguard against flutter. To demonstrate this, take a regular carabiner and smack it against your hand. You should hear it open. Now take a wire gate biner and do the same thing. Quiet.
Gates opening is the number one cause of biner failure. Hence this design.
I'm sure others will comment more on what else other carabiners are good for but there is a quick answer for you.


(This post was edited by ChaseLeoncini on Jun 14, 2013, 5:51 AM)


marc801


Jun 14, 2013, 10:43 AM
Post #3 of 13 (1698 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 1, 2005
Posts: 2689

Re: [ChaseLeoncini] Different Biners [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (2 ratings)  
Can't Post

ChaseLeoncini wrote:
Some biners are better for certain things. One example might be using an oval carabiner to rack wires. Some prefer racking with other types such as pear or D. Ovals can also be used to make back-up rappel devices and i am sure they are great for many other things. I just don't use them. IMO these are the most useless. Of course, many would disagree.
The bent gates are for ease of clipping into.
The wire gates are to safeguard against flutter. To demonstrate this, take a regular carabiner and smack it against your hand. You should hear it open. Now take a wire gate biner and do the same thing. Quiet.
Gates opening is the number one cause of biner failure. Hence this design.
I'm sure others will comment more on what else other carabiners are good for but there is a quick answer for you.
If you aid/big wall climb, you'll quickly discover the advantages of oval biners in a number of situations.


jeepnphreak


Jun 14, 2013, 10:56 AM
Post #4 of 13 (1688 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 28, 2008
Posts: 1259

Re: [squeaka] Different Biners [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

-Key lock ovals for racking stopper (kong),
-Wire gates for alpine draws and cams(neutrienos)
-Solid streight gate one end and a solid bent gate on the other for my sport draws(spirits).
-Key nose lockers for sport anchors(positron),
-large HMS for belaying (willams).
-Large pacificOmega wire gates that are easy to use with gloves for ice climbing, but too big for rockclimbing.

and many more options bepending on what feels/works best for you.


ChaseLeoncini


Jun 14, 2013, 10:57 AM
Post #5 of 13 (1685 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 6, 2013
Posts: 33

Re: [marc801] Different Biners [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Yes, they are very useful for aid as well. They can be flipped around easy, they don't get in the way of other carabiners while clipped, they weight in the center nicely and I'm sure there is much more great about them... oh they're cheaper! Sweet.
But, i dislike their strength and weight in comparison to other stronger/lighter carabiners and the gate space being so minimal when opened annoys me. They have their use, like every piece of gear, don't get me wrong. I just prefer others while not aiding. I haven't done any big walls yet (unfortunately) but i am sure they are useful there, also.


majid_sabet


Jun 14, 2013, 3:52 PM
Post #6 of 13 (1622 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 12, 2002
Posts: 8331

Re: [squeaka] Different Biners [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

many climbers act like girls in shopping malls and they think few ounces of weight difference and fancy biner look will make them fly faster while eating fat food at local in-out burger forgetting about added weight .. while biner manufactures are making money marking biner that are very much offer same beefy rating


in reality, they are all the same


curt


Jun 14, 2013, 5:37 PM
Post #7 of 13 (1599 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 26, 2002
Posts: 18226

Re: [majid_sabet] Different Biners [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

majid_sabet wrote:
many climbers act like girls in shopping malls and they think few ounces of weight difference and fancy biner look will make them fly faster while eating fat food at local in-out burger forgetting about added weight...

Everybody knows it's not the biners that make you climb faster...






It's the lycra Cool

Curt


majid_sabet


Jun 14, 2013, 8:39 PM
Post #8 of 13 (1569 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 12, 2002
Posts: 8331

Re: [curt] Different Biners [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

curt wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:
many climbers act like girls in shopping malls and they think few ounces of weight difference and fancy biner look will make them fly faster while eating fat food at local in-out burger forgetting about added weight...

Everybody knows it's not the biners that make you climb faster...



[image]http://www.rockclimbing.com/images/photos/assets/1/193151-largest_29286.jpg[/image]


It's the lycra Cool

Curt


where is this crack ?


jt512


Jun 14, 2013, 9:51 PM
Post #9 of 13 (1552 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 11, 2001
Posts: 21887

Re: [curt] Different Biners [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

curt wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:
many climbers act like girls in shopping malls and they think few ounces of weight difference and fancy biner look will make them fly faster while eating fat food at local in-out burger forgetting about added weight...

Everybody knows it's not the biners that make you climb faster...






It's the lycra Cool

I contend that the lycra is the reason you have no climbing partner in this photograph.


jt512


Jun 14, 2013, 9:54 PM
Post #10 of 13 (1549 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 11, 2001
Posts: 21887

Re: [majid_sabet] Different Biners [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

majid_sabet wrote:
curt wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:
many climbers act like girls in shopping malls and they think few ounces of weight difference and fancy biner look will make them fly faster while eating fat food at local in-out burger forgetting about added weight...

Everybody knows it's not the biners that make you climb faster...






It's the lycra Cool

Curt


where is this crack ?

Which crack? Be more specific.


curt


Jun 15, 2013, 4:19 PM
Post #11 of 13 (1498 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 26, 2002
Posts: 18226

Re: [majid_sabet] Different Biners [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

majid_sabet wrote:
curt wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:
many climbers act like girls in shopping malls and they think few ounces of weight difference and fancy biner look will make them fly faster while eating fat food at local in-out burger forgetting about added weight...

Everybody knows it's not the biners that make you climb faster...






It's the lycra Cool

Curt


where is this crack ?

It's in Joshua Tree.

Curt


kiwiprincess


Jun 16, 2013, 1:57 PM
Post #12 of 13 (1394 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 25, 2007
Posts: 307

Re: [squeaka] Different Biners [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

Oval- Good for pulley or Ascenders as will hang straight down
D -really strong as force Goes down spine
Pear/HMS -good for a itailian hitch belay as wont jam in corner. Also if you need Lots of space( eg clip in point on anchor for several people, or gear.)

Wire gates don't freeze closed as much in alpine environment.
Solid gate- More comfy, quality spring back.

I usually have mainly D's. I put prussicks on a pear so I have it should I ever drop my belay device. I keep oval attched to ascenders etc so they come with the gear they are useful for.


(This post was edited by kiwiprincess on Jun 16, 2013, 2:00 PM)


billcoe_


Jun 18, 2013, 3:56 PM
Post #13 of 13 (1208 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 30, 2002
Posts: 4658

Re: [curt] Different Biners [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

majid_sabet wrote:
where is this crack ?


Right by the chalkbag Majid.

Kind of obvious. You're welcome.


Forums : Climbing Information : Gear Heads

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook