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marc801


Apr 11, 2013, 2:39 PM
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Re: [DanielK] Indoor bouldering technique [In reply to]
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DanielK wrote:
So in your oppinion this route is easier than a V3?
And if yes, is your knowledge of the wall angle and grip quality enough to make such a statement in compare to the person that build the route?

On another note I've been practising on the F1 route for 3 sessions in the last 5 days nad have done great progress. First time I completed 2/3, second session just a grip further and today another couple of grips, making only the remaining 4 grips unconquered. F1 is still a V3-V5, but more difficult than I4 though. Will put up a video soon.
For fuck's sake they're holds, not "grips". And no one talks about making it to holds or grips, but making moves, since climbing is 60% or more footwork.


(This post was edited by marc801 on Apr 11, 2013, 2:42 PM)


marc801


Apr 11, 2013, 3:18 PM
Post #27 of 41 (2768 views)
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Re: [DanielK] Indoor bouldering technique [In reply to]
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DanielK wrote:
So in your oppinion this route is easier than a V3?
And if yes, is your knowledge of the wall angle and grip quality enough to make such a statement in compare to the person that build the route?
Most experienced climbers can look at a problem and make a reasonable guess as to its grade. If they can watch someone on it, their estimation will be even closer. Not always, but often close enough.

Your supposed V3-V5 just doesn't look as difficult as other problems in that range.
Here's a video of a Gunks V4:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hHBnpfV5wmU

And of course we're talking about indoor ratings in your case, which are often to usually pretty incorrect as compared to real rock. If you want to think you're bouldering at V3-V5, go right ahead and delude yourself. Just don't be surprised when you get totally spanked by your first outdoor 5.8.


DanielK


Apr 11, 2013, 11:20 PM
Post #28 of 41 (2741 views)
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Re: [marc801] Indoor bouldering technique [In reply to]
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marc801 wrote:
DanielK wrote:
So in your oppinion this route is easier than a V3?
And if yes, is your knowledge of the wall angle and grip quality enough to make such a statement in compare to the person that build the route?

On another note I've been practising on the F1 route for 3 sessions in the last 5 days nad have done great progress. First time I completed 2/3, second session just a grip further and today another couple of grips, making only the remaining 4 grips unconquered. F1 is still a V3-V5, but more difficult than I4 though. Will put up a video soon.
For fuck's sake they're holds, not "grips". And no one talks about making it to holds or grips, but making moves, since climbing is 60% or more footwork.
How the fuck should I know. Don't be rude..

marc801 wrote:
DanielK wrote:
So in your oppinion this route is easier than a V3?
And if yes, is your knowledge of the wall angle and grip quality enough to make such a statement in compare to the person that build the route?
Most experienced climbers can look at a problem and make a reasonable guess as to its grade. If they can watch someone on it, their estimation will be even closer. Not always, but often close enough.

Your supposed V3-V5 just doesn't look as difficult as other problems in that range.
Here's a video of a Gunks V4:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hHBnpfV5wmU

And of course we're talking about indoor ratings in your case, which are often to usually pretty incorrect as compared to real rock. If you want to think you're bouldering at V3-V5, go right ahead and delude yourself. Just don't be surprised when you get totally spanked by your first outdoor 5.8.
Thanks for your reply though.


amarius


Apr 12, 2013, 6:18 AM
Post #29 of 41 (2716 views)
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Re: [DanielK] Indoor bouldering technique [In reply to]
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Glad you have intestinal fortitude to take feedback from RC ;)

Anyways, as they said, all climbing grades are subjective, but the climbs that get most traffic asymptotically approach their true grades because a whole lot climbers give them a go. Indoor routes are very subjective since only a few people grade them. Furthermore some of indoor problems are ego climbs, that is set to increase one's self worth, not technique.

If you are interested, and you sound as if you do, John Gill, an objectively serious climber, has a wonderful website on history of climbing http://www.johngill.net/


marc801


Apr 12, 2013, 7:10 AM
Post #30 of 41 (2709 views)
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Re: [DanielK] Indoor bouldering technique [In reply to]
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DanielK wrote:
marc801 wrote:
DanielK wrote:
On another note I've been practising on the F1 route for 3 sessions in the last 5 days nad have done great progress. First time I completed 2/3, second session just a grip further and today another couple of grips, making only the remaining 4 grips unconquered. F1 is still a V3-V5, but more difficult than I4 though. Will put up a video soon.
For fuck's sake they're holds, not "grips". And no one talks about making it to holds or grips, but making moves, since climbing is 60% or more footwork.
How the fuck should I know. Don't be rude..
Read more.
On the rudeness scale on the net, that's about a 1.


DanielK


Apr 28, 2013, 2:39 AM
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Re: [DanielK] Indoor bouldering technique [In reply to]
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I finally managed to complete the F1 course after I made some changes to the footwork and my plan of attack.

The F1 is supposedly a V3-V5, but definitely more difficult than the I4 which is in the same range.
The first video shows 5 of my attempts at completing it just 1 week after setting foot on it the first time.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HcFsNZMwy6s

Second video is 2 weeks after the previous video and it shows me completing the course. This was actually my third completion that day, but because the first wasn't filmed and the second was supposed to be filmed but the cameraman forgot/mispressed the record-button this is the only completion recorded. So my technique is lagging a bit in compare to first and second completion due to fatigue:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n39ju2BrVac


(This post was edited by DanielK on Apr 28, 2013, 2:41 AM)


Partner cracklover


Apr 29, 2013, 7:38 AM
Post #33 of 41 (2532 views)
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Re: [DanielK] Indoor bouldering technique [In reply to]
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You still don't seem to be using your hips much, but your feet are coming off less frequently, even when you're tired, and you're starting to turn your shoulders when you want to reach, instead of just pulling up.

Clear progress.

GO


cpowers15


May 1, 2013, 1:07 PM
Post #34 of 41 (2478 views)
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Re: [DanielK] Indoor bouldering technique [In reply to]
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DanielK wrote:
So in your oppinion this route is easier than a V3?
And if yes, is your knowledge of the wall angle and grip quality enough to make such a statement in compare to the person that build the route?

Yes, and I think based on the number and size of the holds. You could definitely set some harder problems on that incline, but with an array of nice looking holds I would be inclined to think it's lower. But that is just one opinion


theextremist04


May 1, 2013, 8:57 PM
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Re: [DanielK] Indoor bouldering technique [In reply to]
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DanielK wrote:
I finally managed to complete the F1 course after I made some changes to the footwork and my plan of attack.

The F1 is supposedly a V3-V5, but definitely more difficult than the I4 which is in the same range.
The first video shows 5 of my attempts at completing it just 1 week after setting foot on it the first time.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HcFsNZMwy6s

Second video is 2 weeks after the previous video and it shows me completing the course. This was actually my third completion that day, but because the first wasn't filmed and the second was supposed to be filmed but the cameraman forgot/mispressed the record-button this is the only completion recorded. So my technique is lagging a bit in compare to first and second completion due to fatigue:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n39ju2BrVac
I'd like to echo cracklover, you should use your hips a lot more- very rarely will they be turned straight in. Check out this video:

http://www.youtube.com/...mp;feature=endscreen


Partner cracklover


May 2, 2013, 8:39 AM
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Re: [theextremist04] Indoor bouldering technique [In reply to]
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theextremist04 wrote:
DanielK wrote:
I finally managed to complete the F1 course after I made some changes to the footwork and my plan of attack.

The F1 is supposedly a V3-V5, but definitely more difficult than the I4 which is in the same range.
The first video shows 5 of my attempts at completing it just 1 week after setting foot on it the first time.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HcFsNZMwy6s

Second video is 2 weeks after the previous video and it shows me completing the course. This was actually my third completion that day, but because the first wasn't filmed and the second was supposed to be filmed but the cameraman forgot/mispressed the record-button this is the only completion recorded. So my technique is lagging a bit in compare to first and second completion due to fatigue:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n39ju2BrVac
I'd like to echo cracklover, you should use your hips a lot more- very rarely will they be turned straight in. Check out this video:

http://www.youtube.com/...mp;feature=endscreen

Nice video. Does a good job of explaining a few techniques.

GO


skalla92


May 12, 2013, 1:11 PM
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Re: [DanielK] Indoor bouldering technique [In reply to]
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I'm on a rok climbjng team and here is what helped me get from v0 to v5 and 5.easy to 5.11.

Every time you go to the rock gym, before you star working on routes do this warmup:
(On easy routs)
Perfect toe placement: try to place your foot only on the tip of your shoe and only place each foot once.

Finding balance: every hold that you go to, first of all turn in your hip, and once you grab the hold, balance yourself (make a triangle with your had in the center and wide feet. Once you get this stance, if your holding on with your left hand, reach thru to the left and turn your right hip in. This will help with muscle memory. Eventually you will balance yourself without thinking after every move.

Momentum/strait arms: use momentum and swing from hold to hold whal keeping your arm perfectly strait. You will find this is easier when your balanced and have high feet.

Then for the rest of the warm up, do 321s. 3 climbs way below your onsight level, 2 just below your onsight level, and one at your onsight level. If your a v3 climber, do 3 v0s, 2 v2s, and one v3.

This is what we do every team practice before our exercise. Everyone from new climbers to v8 climbers does it. It seriously helps!


squeaka


May 12, 2013, 6:35 PM
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Re: [theextremist04] Indoor bouldering technique [In reply to]
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theextremist04 wrote:
DanielK wrote:
I finally managed to complete the F1 course after I made some changes to the footwork and my plan of attack.

The F1 is supposedly a V3-V5, but definitely more difficult than the I4 which is in the same range.
The first video shows 5 of my attempts at completing it just 1 week after setting foot on it the first time.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HcFsNZMwy6s

Second video is 2 weeks after the previous video and it shows me completing the course. This was actually my third completion that day, but because the first wasn't filmed and the second was supposed to be filmed but the cameraman forgot/mispressed the record-button this is the only completion recorded. So my technique is lagging a bit in compare to first and second completion due to fatigue:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n39ju2BrVac
I'd like to echo cracklover, you should use your hips a lot more- very rarely will they be turned straight in. Check out this video:

http://www.youtube.com/...mp;feature=endscreen
Video is private, any chance of opening it up to general?


DanielK


May 28, 2013, 4:02 AM
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Re: [theextremist04] Indoor bouldering technique [In reply to]
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The video is private, so can't watch it :(

But to update you about my progress I have become a lot better. Remember the I4 and F1 I had so much trouble in completing? Well, my usual bouldering climbing sessions nowadays include completing F1 once (incl. top-out), I4 twice, I3 thrice, I2 four times and I1 5 times. All of these are completed within a timeframe of 10 minutes. Furthermore I almost never fail any of the routes anymore, eventhough I get tired.

I've gotten a bit back to working out with weightlifting and running again instead of doing climbing as the only form of exercise, so I now climb twice a week.

Next session, I'll be working towards completing the I3 with a top-out, which wont be that difficult I think.


I have also been looking at the hardest pink route on the wall, but the sit-start is in a position I'm just not flexible enough to start at, so I suppose stretching of the hamstrings and lower back will do me good in that compartment.
But I probably need to hurry since I heard they are thinking about rearranging completely new routes, because the current ones are too difficult for newbeginners to practise at.

Note: the pink route is supposedly somewhere around the difficulty of a V6-V10.


gunkiemike


Jun 15, 2013, 2:45 PM
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Re: [marc801] Indoor bouldering technique [In reply to]
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marc801 wrote:
Your supposed V3-V5 just doesn't look as difficult as other problems in that range.
Here's a video of a Gunks V4:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hHBnpfV5wmU

Wow, that kid has the skinniest forearms I've ever seen on anyone climbing. Freakishly thin. He'd make the Olsen twins jealous.


marc801


Jun 15, 2013, 4:37 PM
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Re: [gunkiemike] Indoor bouldering technique [In reply to]
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gunkiemike wrote:
marc801 wrote:
Your supposed V3-V5 just doesn't look as difficult as other problems in that range.
Here's a video of a Gunks V4:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hHBnpfV5wmU

Wow, that kid has the skinniest forearms I've ever seen on anyone climbing. Freakishly thin. He'd make the Olsen twins jealous.
Actually, I think whoever did the video monkeyed-with/hosed the video aspect ratio. Everything seems stretched out vertically - look at the length and thinness of the spotters hands and wrists.

Oh, and they got the name of the problem wrong as well.

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