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overshot the belay whilst abseiling, carrying your pig and soloing
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csproul


Jun 20, 2013, 9:21 AM
Post #26 of 42 (3138 views)
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Re: [marc801] overshot the belay whilst abseiling, carrying your pig and soloing [In reply to]
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marc801 wrote:
jagster wrote:
if you use the (chongos 2 to 1 hauling system) I believe that's what its called. you use a z cord, 2 pullys and a jumar. that should do it.Smile
But that's not what he asked.
He did effectively answer the question. The system he describes does not use the rope in the hauling system, and therefore it does not matter if the rope is weighted or not. The hauling is done with a separate cord (z-cord) to pull up an ascender attached to the weighted rope. The system he describes is 2:1, but it would not need to be in this case, especially if the bag wasn't too heavy.


marc801


Jun 20, 2013, 9:51 AM
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Re: [csproul] overshot the belay whilst abseiling, carrying your pig and soloing [In reply to]
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csproul wrote:
marc801 wrote:
jagster wrote:
if you use the (chongos 2 to 1 hauling system) I believe that's what its called. you use a z cord, 2 pullys and a jumar. that should do it.Smile
But that's not what he asked.
He did effectively answer the question. The system he describes does not use the rope in the hauling system, and therefore it does not matter if the rope is weighted or not. The hauling is done with a separate cord (z-cord) to pull up an ascender attached to the weighted rope. The system he describes is 2:1, but it would not need to be in this case, especially if the bag wasn't too heavy.
Oh. OK. Missed that.


rocknice2


Jun 20, 2013, 9:55 AM
Post #28 of 42 (3126 views)
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Re: [jagster] overshot the belay whilst abseiling, carrying your pig and soloing [In reply to]
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jagster wrote:
im sorry I don't understand what you mean? can you elaborate

Do you really need a 2:1 to haul 60/70 lbs worth of crap.

Once your get to the rap station and set your anchor, put both prussics on the rope below you. Attach one to the anchor and the other to your belay loop. Squat down and extend your prussic down. Now stand up hauling the bag. Once your standing straight up slid the anchor prussic down. Repeat.

You could probably haul the bag all the way like this if it's not too far. If not the just setup a 1:1 and haul. You can use your own body weight as a counter weight.

Have you ever hauled anything , ever?


jagster


Jun 20, 2013, 10:59 AM
Post #29 of 42 (3115 views)
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Re: [rocknice2] overshot the belay whilst abseiling, carrying your pig and soloing [In reply to]
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Tsh tsh old sport no need to throw mud!!! Unsure I see what your doing its just I'd rather have gravity on my side and sit down to haul rather than stand. Being a light fellow and all!!


skiclimb


Jun 20, 2013, 11:00 AM
Post #30 of 42 (3112 views)
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Re: [rocknice2] overshot the belay whilst abseiling, carrying your pig and soloing [In reply to]
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Here is a very good answer.

First off you should not be rapping on double strands while ferrying the haulbag. SO I won't answer what to do if you rapping double strand. DONT do that. Not end of the world if you do but it's gonna be more of a pain in the arse to fix. Especially if your rope can feed both ways or the haulbag is too light to provide counterweight for single line ascending.

You should be rapping single strand with a gri-gri. Other side of the rapp should be freehanging. The haulbag should be attached to the belay loop on a seperate pearbiner (gate up configuration if small end at the belay loop) usually with a 24 inch sling. Lots of good reasons for this.

SO you've gone past the belay. No problem. Stop place a prussik on the rap line. Attach to haulbag below the biner that attaches your bag to the belay loop. Then lower yourself a few inches till prussik is holding the haulbag weight. Unclip the haulbag biner from the belay loop and you have escaped. (this is easy if you always have your biner clipped in the correct direction)

Attach ascenders and preferably ascend to the intended anchor you passed.

Setup your anchor and clip the weighted side of the rope with ascender. haul it up a bit however you have to (should be able to by directly lifting on the line but can do it other ways that should be self evident for a wall climber) till you have enough slack to setup a proper haul (if that is even needed). Bring bag up to the anchor and remove from line.

Pull rope and you are back on track.


2nd Option

If the bags are light enough I would just skip the whole escaping from them and simply ascend with bag dangling off my belay loop. Not too big a deal for a short distance perhaps.


rocknice2


Jun 20, 2013, 11:53 AM
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Re: [jagster] overshot the belay whilst abseiling, carrying your pig and soloing [In reply to]
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That's the whole point gravity is on your side with a 1:1.
I didn't throw mud. Just a good backhand because already you have mud in your ears WinkSly

Skiclimb and I have given you very real world solutions to something that should not happen too a party of two in the first place.
The Chongo solution will leave you yarding on a 6mm cord. But to each their own.


mikebee


Jun 20, 2013, 7:31 PM
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Re: [skiclimb] overshot the belay whilst abseiling, carrying your pig and soloing [In reply to]
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In reply to:
You should be rapping single strand with a gri-gri. Other side of the rapp should be freehanging.

I've never done a wall, so haven't ever rapped with a haulbag, hence a newbie question: how do you rig the ropes for this system. Do you use a "biner block" type system, so you can pull one end, but rap on the other?


skiclimb


Jun 20, 2013, 9:29 PM
Post #33 of 42 (3066 views)
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Re: [mikebee] overshot the belay whilst abseiling, carrying your pig and soloing [In reply to]
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mikebee wrote:
In reply to:
You should be rapping single strand with a gri-gri. Other side of the rapp should be freehanging.

I've never done a wall, so haven't ever rapped with a haulbag, hence a newbie question: how do you rig the ropes for this system. Do you use a "biner block" type system, so you can pull one end, but rap on the other?

Exactly.
And by free hanging I don't mean let the free side blow away off in the wind where you can't get it. You should tend to it.


(This post was edited by skiclimb on Jun 21, 2013, 7:14 AM)


chris


Jun 23, 2013, 7:05 PM
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Re: [skiclimb] overshot the belay whilst abseiling, carrying your pig and soloing [In reply to]
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skiclimb wrote:
Here is a very good answer.

First off you should not be rapping on double strands while ferrying the haulbag. SO I won't answer what to do if you rapping double strand. DONT do that. Not end of the world if you do but it's gonna be more of a pain in the arse to fix. Especially if your rope can feed both ways or the haulbag is too light to provide counterweight for single line ascending.

You should...

I like skiclimb's answer best. Ditto.


Partner xtrmecat


Jul 9, 2013, 8:46 AM
Post #35 of 42 (2882 views)
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Re: [skiclimb] overshot the belay whilst abseiling, carrying your pig and soloing [In reply to]
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Ahemm. Have any of the posters ever done a piggy rap?

One rope?? OMG. Shut the fuck up will you. If you are rapping the route, or just the normal descent, it makes no sense to complicate anything and just go with the normal procedures.. Rapping with a pig is no big deal, just ride the sucker till you discover your oops.

Tie a backup to the piggies rap device, (You were riding the pig, right?) Get you ascenders off your harness and ascend to the anchors. Anchor yourself and set up your haul. Anchor your piggie, and get back on board.

Pull ropes from last station, get back on rappel, and rinse and repeat till you are on the deck.

Why in the world would someone have a sixty meter rap, using two ropes, and only use one and a grigri?
Big wall theory? Just go with standard operating procedures. If there is a shortcut, please oh please let it come from someone with some wall mileage, not from theory on the intardnet.

Burly Bob


csproul


Jul 9, 2013, 9:22 AM
Post #36 of 42 (2873 views)
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Re: [xtrmecat] overshot the belay whilst abseiling, carrying your pig and soloing [In reply to]
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xtrmecat wrote:
Ahemm. Have any of the posters ever done a piggy rap?

One rope?? OMG. Shut the fuck up will you. If you are rapping the route, or just the normal descent, it makes no sense to complicate anything and just go with the normal procedures.. Rapping with a pig is no big deal, just ride the sucker till you discover your oops.

Tie a backup to the piggies rap device, (You were riding the pig, right?) Get you ascenders off your harness and ascend to the anchors. Anchor yourself and set up your haul. Anchor your piggie, and get back on board.

Pull ropes from last station, get back on rappel, and rinse and repeat till you are on the deck.

Why in the world would someone have a sixty meter rap, using two ropes, and only use one and a grigri?
Big wall theory? Just go with standard operating procedures. If there is a shortcut, please oh please let it come from someone with some wall mileage, not from theory on the intardnet.

Burly Bob
I'm a complete BWT (Big wall Theorist), so can you answer a couple questions:

You're rapping a double rope (two strands). How can you use your ascenders to climb up a doubled rope? Do you just make sure you pick the correct strand and rely on the knot jamming in the anchor? Or are you relying on the weight of the pig to keep the ropes from pulling through the anchor?

If you tie back-ups on the rap device attached to the pig, the weight of the pig is left on the doubled up rope. When you get to the anchor and setup your haul, how do you get the loaded rope into a pulley if the bag is on the ropes (unless you use a z-cord or something similar)?

I can think of a couple of reasons to rap a single line, a fixed line being one of them. I have done very little aid climbing, but I have been a few pitches up and decided to bail to the ground to come back the next day. We fixed three ropes to the ground via a couple rap anchors so we could reach the ground and then head back up the single line(s) the next day. We did take our bags with us, so we ended up rapping on a single line on a Grigri with a haul bag. Of course, in our case it was easy to send the first person down without the bag and make sure it ended at the next rap...but what if you were soloing?


(This post was edited by csproul on Jul 9, 2013, 9:50 AM)


rocknice2


Jul 9, 2013, 9:35 AM
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Re: [xtrmecat] overshot the belay whilst abseiling, carrying your pig and soloing [In reply to]
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When riding the pig, I still set myself as the primary on the rap device and then tether the pig to the rap device. You could do it the other way around but I like to be the primary. Never know when you need to cut the little heffer loose.


Partner xtrmecat


Jul 9, 2013, 9:59 AM
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Re: [csproul] overshot the belay whilst abseiling, carrying your pig and soloing [In reply to]
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I cannot think why someone would take a piggy they hauled down to the deck, just to jug back up and haul it agian the next day. I and every one I have ever walled with just take the necessities to the deck, and then simply jug back up to the top in the am with our goodies on the back of the harness. A whole pig worth, why?

I phrased my post on purpose this way to try to weed out some honesty or stupidity, whichever rose to the top would let me know how to reply.

When rapping with the pig, most people I know, including me, put the pig on rappel, and tie off to the pig via a sling doubles or tripled via lockers to the main rappel locker. Some use the prussic backup above and some use it below the atc. I prefer above.
When the problem arises. just stop the rap, lock the prussic. Tie a munter mule and put a biner, prefer a locker on it. Get out the ascenders, whick are always on the harness, right. Hook em up and get into the aiders above the pig on both strands. Tie your backup, which will probably be a prussic or kliemheist. When jugging. the muntered pig should stay right where it is, but if it is so light that the ropes try to slip, put a couple of the smallest slings you have and prussic up to the belay on both strands together. If the pig is so light that it causes this issue, you probably were not walling, as I rarely have less than 75 lbs of misc. crap to come back with, with all food and water consumed.

I solo wall a lot and have never passed a belay anchor, but have needed to play around with a mess or two. Usually in the dark involving ropes stuck in a crack in the dark, with rain and wind. Better to be diligent and careful when descending than get yourself into the pickle described, but if it happens, just use the Standard Operating Procedures.

Gris get pretty dang hot when loaded with the whole kit and and me, so never saw them as a good alternative to rap. You already have two ropes to bring back, and the atc can do the job with an extra friction biner inserted to compensate for just about as hurculean a load as you can get. The Gri gets hot, as already stated, and when loaded heavily, very tiresome to try to rap smoothly when it has a buttton of weight on it. Just my $0.02.. Done this personal experiment once, and that is all it took.

I can however see rapping one strand with leaving lines fixed to try another attempt in the future, but no change in procedure needed.

Setting up the haul is not complicated, Piss of everyone Pete, and Chongos methods are all over the web. It is no big deal to anchor ones self, put the pulley on a loaded strand, put an ascender on, and then get a loop of slack by pulling the pig up manually. You only need to do this till there is enough to get the much desired downward pull slack. If you cannot acquire two feet of slack and the load is too heavy, eat more food more often, and go to the gym. Seriously, this would only need to result in a mechanical advantage hauling situation very rarely, but you already have the prussic slings on you , right. Add a couple of ovals and there you go. get it done

Burly Bob


Partner xtrmecat


Jul 9, 2013, 10:05 AM
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Re: [rocknice2] overshot the belay whilst abseiling, carrying your pig and soloing [In reply to]
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  Why cut her loose, when you can just escape yourself? No magic, no tricks. Just straight forward stuff.

Burly Bob


billcoe_


Jul 9, 2013, 10:58 AM
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Re: [jagster] overshot the belay whilst abseiling, carrying your pig and soloing [In reply to]
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jagster wrote:
Apologies if the situation is a bit taxing for you. Maybe there will be simpler questions on this forum you can answer helpfully, rather than wasting everyone's time with pointless replies.

Love the British sarcasm thing. (not being sarcastic here either)


rocknice2


Jul 9, 2013, 11:37 AM
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Re: [xtrmecat] overshot the belay whilst abseiling, carrying your pig and soloing [In reply to]
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xtrmecat wrote:
Why cut her loose, when you can just escape yourself? No magic, no tricks. Just straight forward stuff.

Burly Bob
The cut pig loose was in jest.
Probably need to cut the pig as often as some one over shoots the belay. Wink


skiclimb


Jul 9, 2013, 5:39 PM
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Re: [xtrmecat] overshot the belay whilst abseiling, carrying your pig and soloing [In reply to]
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I prefer to be the primary and rap with the bag attached to my loop. Works great for me. I like the clearance, control and center of gravity better that way.

I prefer to rap on just one side of the two ropes with a gri-gri.

Gri-Gri-s suck a bit for rapping and do get hot.. however I do like the ability to lock off easily at any time for any reason including rocks hitting my head and knocking me out.

If I'm looking for a faster smoother rap then I happen to prefer the old square tuber to the crappy catchy less versatile ATC.. but again it's preference.. no perfect answer.. lotsa things work. and being familiar with many things and used to dealing with snafu's quickly is just part of being a good waller.

Theory.. nope..

How many folks you know bailed from the triple cracks. Might not exactly be bragging rights but I think of it as one my more unusual and well done moments on a wall. Bailing overhanging terrain quickly is a damn useful skill to have when needed.

It was also a place where rapping on a gri- gri made a hell of a lot of sense when I was reversing the roof backcleaning the whole way. Was also nice that my partner was able to intentionally rap past the anchor and send me the bag quickly on the tag line by simply unclipping the bag from his harness.

Lotsa ways to skin a cat on a wall.. I like mine, it works and is simple, versatile and can adjust quickly to various messes you run into on a wall.


(This post was edited by skiclimb on Jul 10, 2013, 2:00 PM)

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