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Rappelling Montezuma's Tower
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skeet79


Jun 23, 2013, 2:07 PM
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Registered: Jun 23, 2013
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Rappelling Montezuma's Tower  (North_America: United_States: Colorado: Front_Range: Garden_of_the_Gods)
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I have read some of the route reviews for Montezuma's Tower, and am wondering about the rappel. I have a 60m rope, and no available funds to purchase a second rope for the rappel right now. Someone said you can make it down in two rappels by using the belay ledge at about 100' up. Does anyone know whether this belay ledge has suitable permanent anchors for belaying/rappelling? Appreciate any insights!


jmeizis


Jun 23, 2013, 3:19 PM
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Registered: Apr 25, 2006
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Re: [skeet79] Rappelling Montezuma's Tower [In reply to]
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You cannot rappel from the summit anchor to the first pitch anchor. You can get off the first pitch with a 60 but not the summit. Of you are familiar with the reepschnur technique that is how I get down with one rope.


skeet79


Jun 23, 2013, 7:33 PM
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Re: [jmeizis] Rappelling Montezuma's Tower [In reply to]
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Brilliant idea! Thanks for the tip. Read up on the technique and definitely plan to use it. Have you used it on a 3 or more pitch climb? Seems like dodging the carabiner in your backup knot could be difficult when tied into an intermediate anchor. Much appreciate the tip, as I had never before heard of the technique.


jmeizis


Jun 23, 2013, 9:07 PM
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Re: [skeet79] Rappelling Montezuma's Tower [In reply to]
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You can use it on any rappel where you need to get a little extra distance. Whatever length pull cord you use will extend your reach about that much. I only use it on things where I can reach with the length of a cordalette or two. Otherwise it's probably worth it to just bring another rope or a full size pull cord. I usually don't do this with multiple rappels. Generally if there are a lot of raps they are about the same size so you can reach with a single rope or you're not even close because it's a double rope rap. I wouldn't carry a 60 and do this for a bunch of 70 meter raps unless I really had to.

I would definately practice this on the ground or with someone who can double check because it's easy to screw up and the results will be real bad.

When you've got the one end on the ground, that's your rap line. The other side you tie off to it is the pull side. When you rap to the end of the short side tie a cordalette or a couple slings to that end so they reach the ground and you can pull. It works well on Montezuma's because it's only like 62 meters.

I guide Montezuma's a lot and I think I'm one of the few guides who does this. The rest of the poor suckers have to carry two ropes.


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