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DIY removable doorway hangboard mount
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FFSchooley


Feb 6, 2013, 7:25 AM
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DIY removable doorway hangboard mount
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Have you seen the http://www.blankslateclimbing.com/shop/item/blank-slate/ doorway mount for your hangboard?
Have you seen the price! I figured out a DIY way to make it for $40 instead of the $130 it costs to buy it. Here ya go;

Parts list
Doorway pull-up bar from local big box store $29.95
(2) 1/2" x 4" galvanized nipples
(2) 1/2" galvanized floor flanges
(2) 1/4" x 3/4" bolt with nut? (not sure exactly what size, just grabbed bolts off my workbench that fit.)
3/4" plywood (I cut mine 30" x 18")
3/4" wood screws



Be sure to take the pull-up bar you get to the store with you to make sure the 1/2" nipples fit. You will see where below...

1. Assemble the pull up bar and screw the nipples into the flanges to make what I will call the nipple mounting bracket :) . Pop the end caps off the pull up bar tubes where the handgrips are(see photo below)



2. Insert nipple mounting brackets into tubes and drill a hole through the pull up bar and nipple mounting bracket to allow you to put a bolt through both to secure the nipple mounting bracket. Insert bolts loosely to assemble.





3. Place pull up bar system on plywood and mark where you want the plywood to mount. I placed mine 6" from the bottom of the board. Seems to work well (see final photo).

4. Screw nipple mounting brackets to plywood. (Note, you might have to remove them from the pull up bar to give room from to access screws.



5. Assemble pull up bar if removed and tighten all bolts/screws. Hang in doorway to test and add hang board and holds. Enjoy!




(This post was edited by FFSchooley on Feb 6, 2013, 7:30 AM)


niknarly


Feb 12, 2013, 8:55 AM
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Re: [FFSchooley] DIY removable doorway hangboard mount [In reply to]
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Hey thanks for posting this,
help my friend out a lot.

He used bolts and washers instead of plywood screws, just to make sure its more rigid. Because if you put holds near the top of the board, could be a lot of torque on just screws... but i'm no engineer.
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seancharles


Jun 23, 2013, 10:18 PM
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Registered: Jun 23, 2013
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Re: [FFSchooley] DIY removable doorway hangboard mount [In reply to]
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do you know where i can get the nipple mounts I cant find them anywhere


adeffis


Oct 10, 2014, 7:33 AM
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Re: [FFSchooley] DIY removable doorway hangboard mount [In reply to]
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This is excellent, really appreciate that you shared it.
Smile


naitch


Oct 11, 2014, 9:30 AM
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Re: [adeffis] DIY removable doorway hangboard mount [In reply to]
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I have come up with something similar (see link below) that I believe is a bit stronger. The Blank Slate is engineered for the leverage and stresses that it will incur by having a board and holds mounted to it. Your average pull-up bar is only engineered to have the weight applied between the ends of the pull-up handles and the horizontal bar. The square steel stock of the Blank Slate is larger and able to handle more leverage and downward stress. The most stress occurs where the bolts go through the cross-bar to hold it to the two uprights. By adding the board on the end of the horizontal pull-up handles and then having holds/hangboard on the outside surface of that, you are moving the weight even further out which increases the leverage and stress on the bolt holes which are the weak link. Use at your own risk!

There are some ways to mitigate this however. One way, is to cut the pull-handles slightly shorter (~ 2 inches). This moves the board closer to the horizontal bar and reduces the leverage and thus the stress.

Further stress can be taken off the pull-bar bolt holes by adding a 2 x 2 cross piece at the bottom of the board that spans the width of the doorway and rests against the doorway just like the pull-up cross-bar. This helps distribute some of the weight to the facing of the doorway casing/trim.

Finally, having a 3/4" piece of plywood with no reinforcing allows the board to flex some (depending upon the user's weight and where the holds/hangboard are mounted on the board). I don't know the thickness of the Blank Slate board, but it might even be 1" thick. One way to make the board stiffer is to use a couple vertical stringers on the back side of the board (2 x 2s or 2 x 4s).

For illustrations of these points and an alternative to using the pipe flanges (though that seems like a cool idea too), see http://sicgrips.blogspot.com/...tring-backboard.html

For those who don't mind putting in a bit more work, here is folding unit you could make from scratch with plywood, 2 x 2s, a couple turnbuckles, and a bit of strap steel from the hardware store. This would save you the price of the pull-up bar if you don't already have one. We designed it originally to hang Gstrings but it could easily be sheathed with 3/4" hardwood ply with t-nuts or a hang board: http://sicgrips.com/gstring_gallows.html


(This post was edited by naitch on Oct 12, 2014, 5:27 AM)


adeffis


Oct 11, 2014, 9:49 AM
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Re: [naitch] DIY removable doorway hangboard mount [In reply to]
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Thanks a lot ... it looks like it'll take a little bit more of work to do, but more stable and sturdy indeed.
I actually do have the G strings that I bought from you guys not so long ago, so I'm going to get the materials and get to work.
Thanks once again.
Smile


marc801


Oct 13, 2014, 10:44 AM
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Re: [naitch] DIY removable doorway hangboard mount [In reply to]
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How do any of these devices manage to not crush and mar the doorway trim or the wall above the door?


naitch


Oct 13, 2014, 12:22 PM
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Re: [marc801] DIY removable doorway hangboard mount [In reply to]
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The top of the doorway is not a problem with either the pull-up bar or the ones I've made from scratch. The medium-hard plastic or the wood hasn't marred the wall or trim on top of the doorway in my experience - YMMV.

The commercial pull-up bar I use does have a very thin piece of closed cell foam on it (~1/16") and the ones I've made from scratch, I originally put a piece of yoga mat that was glued to the wooden bar at the top (second link in my post above.) However since then, I've eliminated that because it didn't seem to be an issue in my situation and because it pushes the bar out away from the wall slightly. On one version I used thin felt which was OK.

Re the trim on the sides of the doorway, the commercial pull-up units have foam padding that helps distribute the weight. With the board I made (first link in my previous post above) I added foam padding on the auxiliary wood crossbar that presses against the trim. Never had any problems, though it might depend upon how much the user weighs and how sculpted the doorway trim is. Ours isn't flat but not as sculpted as some that I've seen.

Also, with the added cross-bar, it helps distribute the weight over a larger surface area of the doorway trim than just the pull-up bar by itself.


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