Forums: Climbing Information: Injury Treatment and Prevention:
Knee surgery
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Injury Treatment and Prevention

Premier Sponsor:

 


samburger


Jun 26, 2013, 6:17 AM
Post #1 of 8 (1409 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 26, 2013
Posts: 2

Knee surgery
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

So I have been climbing for a year now and the majority of my training hhas just been climbing 4 times a wake. I might be going in for knee surgery and need some advice on off wall training. If some one can help me out, I worked hard to get where I am and would hate for all that work to go to waste:( HELP!


gblauer
Moderator

Jun 26, 2013, 10:10 AM
Post #2 of 8 (1373 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 3, 2002
Posts: 2802

Re: [samburger] Knee surgery [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

get 5 pounds of raw rice
put it into a bucket
dip both hands in bucket
open and close your hands/fingers, make fists

This really works your forearms; helps maintain forearms strength.

Do pull ups and dips
Get LOTS of cardio


Syd


Aug 5, 2013, 2:12 PM
Post #3 of 8 (1213 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 25, 2012
Posts: 300

Re: [samburger] Knee surgery [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Sam, I'd do my best to avoid the knife altogether. I should have had knee surgery, disc surgery and a hip replacements but I've found my own cures and am now careful but pain free and still climbing at 65. I have had lots of friends who have gone under the knife, but not many successes long term.


shimanilami


Aug 5, 2013, 2:50 PM
Post #4 of 8 (1206 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 24, 2006
Posts: 2043

Re: [samburger] Knee surgery [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

There isn't much you can do to maintain climbing-specific fitness besides climbing. There simply is no good substitute.

So the best thing you can do is to focus on maintaining general fitness. If you're off your feet, then swimming, core training, stretching, weight training, etc. will help you to keep your fitness and "psyche" at a place where, once you're cleared to climb again, you'll actually be able to get on it.

I feel for you. I've had both knees (and shoulders) worked on. These were some of the most depressing times of my life. Just remember that you'll be back before long, and that you will crush it upon your return!


marc801


Aug 5, 2013, 3:35 PM
Post #5 of 8 (1203 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 1, 2005
Posts: 2729

Re: [Syd] Knee surgery [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Syd wrote:
Sam, I'd do my best to avoid the knife altogether. I should have had knee surgery, disc surgery and a hip replacements but I've found my own cures and am now careful but pain free and still climbing at 65. I have had lots of friends who have gone under the knife, but not many successes long term.
Which university did you say granted you your degree in medicine?
You have a full diagnostic assessment of Sam's problem to offer this advice, yes? Absent any detail, this is kinda pointless if not potentially dangerous advice.


Syd


Aug 5, 2013, 4:14 PM
Post #6 of 8 (1196 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 25, 2012
Posts: 300

Re: [marc801] Knee surgery [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

marc, you sound like a surgeon looking for more business.


marc801


Aug 5, 2013, 5:19 PM
Post #7 of 8 (1188 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 1, 2005
Posts: 2729

Re: [Syd] Knee surgery [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

Syd wrote:
marc, you sound like a surgeon looking for more business.
No, just a 40+ year climber seeing really poor, baseless medical advice being given out in a climbing discussion forum.


Partner rgold


Aug 5, 2013, 6:39 PM
Post #8 of 8 (1178 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 3, 2002
Posts: 1800

Re: [marc801] Knee surgery [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Well, I have quite a few friends who have "gone under the knife" and have had excellent outcomes. Plus, I have a number of other friends who didn't opt for operations and are very sorry about the decision. So Syd's perspective is far from the only one, not to mention the fact that it is based on total ignorance of the circumstances (and now I'm inclined to say, "as usual").

I had a ruptured ACL surgically replaced a year and a half ago. The alternative was to deal with an unstable knee, which would have made even exposed hiking dangerous. The decision was a no-brainer for me.

Unless you have a lot of disposable time, you will have to devote a lot of your training time to rehabbing your knee, because if you don't do that properly it really will have been a big mistake to get the operation. So I'd get used to the idea that you will lose climbing fitness, I certainly did. But you can build it back up again as your knee gets better---the main thing is to recover full strength and range of motion for your knee.

You can do quite a lot with a hangboard mounted so that you can grab the holds while standing on the floor. Just don't put yourself in a situation requiring you to jump down onto the good leg only.


Forums : Climbing Information : Injury Treatment and Prevention

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook