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Nayas


Jun 25, 2013, 10:47 AM
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First Trad Rack
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Hi All,

Just got my trad class and was looking around to buy my 1st trad rack. Seeing so many different brand, model, etc... I'm a bit lost.

So far, I bought the Black Diamond nuts set (#4 to #13) and nut removal tool. I also bought Black Diamond C4 0.5, 0.75, 1 and 2.

What else is a "must have" at the beginning?

Thanks alot for all suggestions / reply.

Felix


dagibbs


Jun 25, 2013, 11:02 AM
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Re: [Nayas] First Trad Rack [In reply to]
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This has been, repeatedly, discussed on this forum already. Try doing a search.

Most common answer: it depends on where you're climbing. Secondly, it depends on your budget.

You need an appropriate selection of passive and active gear, in the appropriate ranges, with appropriate duplication for the climbs you are expecting to climb. On top of that, you need an appropriate amount of slings of appropriate length for the climbs you are expecting to climb.


ChaseLeoncini


Jun 25, 2013, 5:39 PM
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Top rope some trad climbs and put pieces in. Youll learn what you need after a few routes.


mikebee


Jun 26, 2013, 1:08 AM
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A selection of quick draws and slings sound like the next purchase!


Marylandclimber


Jun 26, 2013, 9:44 AM
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Re: [Nayas] First Trad Rack [In reply to]
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Kind of depends really where you climb.


theextremist04


Jun 26, 2013, 6:16 PM
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Re: [Marylandclimber] First Trad Rack [In reply to]
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Marylandclimber wrote:
Kind of depends really where you climb.
I disagree. Starter racks are pretty universal, it's when you get into the less common stuff that it matters.


Marylandclimber


Jun 27, 2013, 6:31 AM
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Fair enough. It wouldn't hurt to include it though.


dagibbs


Jun 27, 2013, 10:46 AM
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theextremist04 wrote:
Marylandclimber wrote:
Kind of depends really where you climb.
I disagree. Starter racks are pretty universal, it's when you get into the less common stuff that it matters.

From that point of view:

A set of nuts (e.g. Black Diamond) from small (.5 cm or 1/4 inch) to moderate (5cm or 2 inches). A set of cams from about the size of your baby finger to about the size of your fist (compressed, that is, with the trigger pulled in). That's probably about 8 nuts, and maybe 6 cams. Possibly add pink & red tri-cams, and a couple hexes to give some passive gear choices at the larger end of the scale.

Assuming you already have a set of sport draws, add a few slings, or trad-draws to allow for extending pieces when you need to.

The rack will grow by:
-- extending cams to the smaller and larger end of the scale
-- doubling cams
-- doubling nuts
-- extending passive gear range
-- adding more tricams
-- adding more trad draws


oldguy53


Jul 13, 2013, 6:37 AM
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I led for 10 years with a rack like yours. I did double up on the .75 & 1. And two BIG hexes . I like BD gear.


Nayas


Aug 2, 2013, 5:57 AM
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Re: [dagibbs] First Trad Rack [In reply to]
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Hi,

Sorry for late reply, was out of town.
Thanks a lot for the information. Really appreciate.

Have a good day!


Marc1


Aug 2, 2013, 11:08 AM
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hey man - sounds like you have to much time on your hands if you need to reply telling somebody to search old posts :) everybody who buys a new rack likes a brand new post as well :)


fx101


Sep 26, 2013, 7:39 AM
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Something I don't see recommended for starter racks too often are tricams...

But they are really handy to have on a variety of different kinds of rock (okay maybe not at Indian creek where you need an infinite supply of #2 cams). Also, they're relatively cheap.

At least in my experience, having a tricam or two on the rack has allowed me to protect what would have otherwise been an 'R' rated pitch.


rocknice2


Sep 26, 2013, 8:20 AM
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Blue Tricam / Red Camalot ?
Hmmm?

Unless the route specifically says to carry one, I don't. They suck most of the time.


fx101


Sep 26, 2013, 11:52 AM
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They're incredibly bomber in pockets and odd-shaped horizontal cracks where the guidebook would expect you to use a sketchy cam placement.

I don't use them anymore, however...

Totem cams are not only adjustable but you can also use only half of the cams in a placement. All of the super shallow pockets and cracks where I used to use tricams now take totems. Reason I don't recommend them for a 'first trad rack' is that they're expensive and can be a little cumbersome to place.


crjanow


Oct 24, 2013, 3:49 PM
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I would start with a full set of big bros. Then get a set of Ball Nutz. If money allows get a set of brass micro stoppers. One thing to remember is if you only place gear every 30 or 40 feet you wont need as much which makes you lighter and climb better.


marc801


Oct 25, 2013, 12:49 PM
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crjanow wrote:
I would start with a full set of big bros. Then get a set of Ball Nutz. If money allows get a set of brass micro stoppers. One thing to remember is if you only place gear every 30 or 40 feet you wont need as much which makes you lighter and climb better.
What prompted you to post useless nonsense in a thread that till now had a pretty good signal to noise ratio?


5.samadhi


Oct 27, 2013, 6:35 AM
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marc801 wrote:
crjanow wrote:
I would start with a full set of big bros. Then get a set of Ball Nutz. If money allows get a set of brass micro stoppers. One thing to remember is if you only place gear every 30 or 40 feet you wont need as much which makes you lighter and climb better.
What prompted you to post useless nonsense in a thread that till now had a pretty good signal to noise ratio?
what prompted you to think that your useless post was going to deal with the problem of his hilarious troll?


crjanow


Oct 27, 2013, 2:55 PM
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marc801 wrote:
crjanow wrote:
I would start with a full set of big bros. Then get a set of Ball Nutz. If money allows get a set of brass micro stoppers. One thing to remember is if you only place gear every 30 or 40 feet you wont need as much which makes you lighter and climb better.
What prompted you to post useless nonsense in a thread that till now had a pretty good signal to noise ratio?
I just didn't think the good answer to dickhead answer ratio was right for rc.com


crjanow


Oct 27, 2013, 2:56 PM
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5.samadhi wrote:
marc801 wrote:
crjanow wrote:
I would start with a full set of big bros. Then get a set of Ball Nutz. If money allows get a set of brass micro stoppers. One thing to remember is if you only place gear every 30 or 40 feet you wont need as much which makes you lighter and climb better.
What prompted you to post useless nonsense in a thread that till now had a pretty good signal to noise ratio?
what prompted you to think that your useless post was going to deal with the problem of his hilarious troll?
Thank you for the kind words, glad you enjoyed it.


crjanow


Oct 27, 2013, 3:02 PM
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Nayas wrote:
Hi All,

Just got my trad class and was looking around to buy my 1st trad rack. Seeing so many different brand, model, etc... I'm a bit lost.

So far, I bought the Black Diamond nuts set (#4 to #13) and nut removal tool. I also bought Black Diamond C4 0.5, 0.75, 1 and 2.

What else is a "must have" at the beginning?

Thanks alot for all suggestions / reply.

Felix
I will give a serious answer though, what you have is a good start. Might want doubles of the cams you have and add a #3. Possibly some mastercams in the 1-6 range to compliment the bd's.


5.samadhi


Oct 29, 2013, 7:12 AM
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Re: [crjanow] First Trad Rack [In reply to]
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crjanow wrote:
Nayas wrote:
Hi All,

Just got my trad class and was looking around to buy my 1st trad rack. Seeing so many different brand, model, etc... I'm a bit lost.

So far, I bought the Black Diamond nuts set (#4 to #13) and nut removal tool. I also bought Black Diamond C4 0.5, 0.75, 1 and 2.

What else is a "must have" at the beginning?

Thanks alot for all suggestions / reply.

Felix
I will give a serious answer though, what you have is a good start. Might want doubles of the cams you have and add a #3. Possibly some mastercams in the 1-6 range to compliment the bd's.
solid answer.

I've always liked TCUs+ aliens in smaller sizes and Camalots in larger sizes (or C4 if you want to be all hip and new).


ChalkIsCheap


Oct 29, 2013, 9:40 AM
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5.samadhi wrote:
crjanow wrote:
Nayas wrote:
Hi All,

Just got my trad class and was looking around to buy my 1st trad rack. Seeing so many different brand, model, etc... I'm a bit lost.

So far, I bought the Black Diamond nuts set (#4 to #13) and nut removal tool. I also bought Black Diamond C4 0.5, 0.75, 1 and 2.

What else is a "must have" at the beginning?

Thanks alot for all suggestions / reply.

Felix
I will give a serious answer though, what you have is a good start. Might want doubles of the cams you have and add a #3. Possibly some mastercams in the 1-6 range to compliment the bd's.
solid answer.

I've always liked TCUs+ aliens in smaller sizes and Camalots in larger sizes (or C4 if you want to be all hip and new).
I don't know what anyone else thinks but I love my Wild Country Rocks, they go in sizes up to #3 C4 and are my go to nut for most large placements. I don't trust cam's much in ontario limestone so these nuts get me through most climbs. Not sure how they would apply to your rock but the where I climb they more then do the job.


majid_sabet


Oct 29, 2013, 2:11 PM
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Re: [theextremist04] First Trad Rack [In reply to]
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theextremist04 wrote:
Marylandclimber wrote:
Kind of depends really where you climb.
I disagree. Starter racks are pretty universal, it's when you get into the less common stuff that it matters.

what is this universal rack suppose to have ?


billcoe_


Nov 4, 2013, 7:53 PM
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CRJAnow must be teasing. I have a bunch of ballnuts and a bunch of big bros and they rarely get used. I do like the brass micro stopper idea, and I'd specifically suggest the DMM offsets or also in that range (not brass but kick ass) Wild Country Superlights. You can buy a lot of wireds for the price of a single cam, they weigh less and there's always spots for them if you are looking anywhere outside of a splitter hand crack.

Next, I'd look to add smaller cams for finger to hand size. If you could find a decent used set of either Totems (Green, Yellow and Red) or Metolius TCUS I'd do that. Remember that the Metolius hold great, and Metolius will resling them fairly inexpensively if you find a set that looks too used. Just make sure that the wires aren't bent or sticking out, or that there are any flat spots on the cams form hard falls and you'll be good to go.

crjanow wrote:
I would start with a full set of big bros. Then get a set of Ball Nutz. If money allows get a set of brass micro stoppers. One thing to remember is if you only place gear every 30 or 40 feet you wont need as much which makes you lighter and climb better.


carabiner96


Nov 5, 2013, 5:09 PM
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Re: [majid_sabet] First Trad Rack [In reply to]
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majid_sabet wrote:
theextremist04 wrote:
Marylandclimber wrote:
Kind of depends really where you climb.
I disagree. Starter racks are pretty universal, it's when you get into the less common stuff that it matters.

what is this universal rack suppose to have ?
Do a search, nOOb!


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