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How to belay with one arm
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BartHumphries


May 26, 2013, 5:28 PM
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How to belay with one arm
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For a person with a missing or amputated arm just below the elbow, how should belaying be accomplished? I've been thinking of some sort of foot sling with a Grigri 2 (speaking of which, how do I tell whether one should have been recalled or is a new one -- wish they'd just gone to Grigri 3)? Perhaps a chest harness with an attachment point mid-chest... I'm not really sure where I'm going with that. We have a staff member that I'd like to be able to feel more involved.


majid_sabet


May 26, 2013, 6:13 PM
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Re: [BartHumphries] How to belay with one arm [In reply to]
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its not that hard with gri gri however during lowering, you probably need to redirect the rope in to a biner from leg loop in to the side of grigri. I may post a photo later to show the setup.


BartHumphries


May 26, 2013, 8:14 PM
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Re: [majid_sabet] How to belay with one arm [In reply to]
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Most of our participants climb up then are lowered down, though.


squeaka


May 27, 2013, 3:37 AM
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Re: [BartHumphries] How to belay with one arm [In reply to]
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BartHumphries wrote:
For a person with a missing or amputated arm just below the elbow, how should belaying be accomplished? I've been thinking of some sort of foot sling with a Grigri 2 (speaking of which, how do I tell whether one should have been recalled or is a new one -- wish they'd just gone to Grigri 3)? Perhaps a chest harness with an attachment point mid-chest... I'm not really sure where I'm going with that. We have a staff member that I'd like to be able to feel more involved.
go to the Petzl website they have the serial numbers listed for the recalled early Gri2


acorneau


May 27, 2013, 6:24 AM
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Re: [BartHumphries] How to belay with one arm [In reply to]
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You should contact Mal Daly with Paradox Sports. They probably have some good info for you.

http://paradoxsports.org/


dindolino32


Jun 27, 2013, 12:36 PM
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Re: [BartHumphries] How to belay with one arm [In reply to]
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Hi Bart. My job is actually right up this alley. Im a prosthetis. Are you a Right or a Left amputee. Do you have a functioning prosthetic arm? You should be able to manipulate the lever of a grigri with a prosthesis and then use your other hand to lower. A hook has the most dexterity, but it depends what you have. Let me know and I could think of a couple of good ideas.


gblauer
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Jun 27, 2013, 1:49 PM
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Re: [dindolino32] How to belay with one arm [In reply to]
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dindolino32 wrote:
Hi Bart. My job is actually right up this alley. Im a prosthetis. ... Let me know and I could think of a couple of good ideas.


The power of the web and this site. How awesome.


maldaly


Jun 27, 2013, 2:13 PM
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BartHumphries,
PM me your email address and I'll connect you to Aron Ralston, Pete Davis and Maureen Beck, all one-arm climbers and belayers.
Mal


carabiner96


Jun 27, 2013, 8:53 PM
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Re: [maldaly] How to belay with one arm [In reply to]
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maldaly wrote:
BartHumphries,
PM me your email address and I'll connect you to Aron Ralston, Pete Davis and Maureen Beck, all one-arm climbers and belayers.
Mal
Mal! You're supposed to be in the bush!!!


BartHumphries


Oct 1, 2013, 12:20 AM
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Re: [BartHumphries] How to belay with one arm [In reply to]
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I reported that guy. Anyway, now that my attention has been drawn back to this thread, let me share what I went with -- a Mammut Smart Belay, It took some getting used to. It's pretty finicky, it's easy to drop someone from a high height if you don't ease into it, but it's completely doable one-handed (no prosthesis, etc., necessary). I recommend using a glove just in case, because if you do drop someone you're going to want to crank down on it and you're going to get a split second of rope burn if you're not wearing a glove.


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