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jindap
Jul 12, 2013, 11:48 AM
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Registered: May 26, 2010
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Hi forum! I'm planning a little trip up north to pay homage to the great Rumney NH cliffs in a week. I'm more of a boulder'r but I do have some experience sport climbing single pitch climbs. My question is what/how much gear should I bring in terms of slings and rope types? For reference I'm a v6/7 climber so is like to attemp some more demanding climbs however my stamina is not all that great so some suggestions for fun climbs would be greatly appreciated!
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ecade
Jul 12, 2013, 1:24 PM
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rope 60m Draws 12 should suffice for most climbs if my memory is right, may climbs take less but some of the best have 10 bolts on the route. There are few classic 2 pitch climbs so a PAS, Purcell, locker for clove/8 or other means to tether to belay They bolt cracks at Rumney so you don't ever need a rack. Great climbing, MP is a great resource for rumney. There is also bouldering there. Check as the main cliff might be closed for falcon nesting.
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dagibbs
Jul 12, 2013, 1:57 PM
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Yup, what ecade said -- a basic set of sport-climbing cragging gear. Most everything is fine with a 60m rope. If you don't like using a pair of quick draws at the anchor, then a few lockers and a couple slings. All the sport climbs have bolted anchors, most have easy lower-offs of some sort.
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jindap
Jul 12, 2013, 8:29 PM
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Registered: May 26, 2010
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Thanks for the info guys, it's exactly what I was looking for. Do either one of you have suggestions as to which crags have the most diversity in climbs (in terms of difficulty)? The info page on this site has so many crags listed, it's a little overwhelming. Also, would either one of you care to give any details on your lodging while you we're there? Did you camp? If so, where?
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ecade
Jul 15, 2013, 12:57 PM
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Registered: Jun 23, 2011
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Hey JP, I have the APP it gives a good break down, I'm terribly busy, give me some better insights into the grades you work and I'll take a quick look at the app and advise. I stayed at D Acres, I camped but they also have cabins and A frames. I quite liked it, its a farm, I think its off the grid or partially off the grid. They'll cook you a meal for $10.00 a tad steep but its a filling meal, many options and best of all, all the ingredients were grown on site! There is a local swimming hole a short drive from D Acres perfect for washing off at the end of a day, its just very cold.
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dagibbs
Jul 15, 2013, 10:08 PM
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jindap wrote: Thanks for the info guys, it's exactly what I was looking for. Do either one of you have suggestions as to which crags have the most diversity in climbs (in terms of difficulty)? The info page on this site has so many crags listed, it's a little overwhelming. Also, would either one of you care to give any details on your lodging while you we're there? Did you camp? If so, where? The Meadows & Parking Lot Wall (which are, essentially, one wall) has a great variety of choices from easy (5.4 or so) to hard (5.12+ or so). The approach is, also, very short. This does tend to make it popular on weekends, though. Main Cliff also has a good variety and range of climbs. The 5.8 crag has fewer routes, but they cover a broad range. Also, not a far hike in. Many of the other crags tend towards easier (e.g. Jimmy Cliff) or harder (e.g. Waimea or Monsters from the Id). The Crag's way of summarizing sub-cliffs makes it pretty easy to judge this, actually. Take a look at: https://www.thecrag.com/...united-states/rumney. In particular, pay attention to the "Grade Band" column.
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