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Parkerkat
Jul 15, 2013, 4:04 PM
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Registered: Nov 6, 2008
Posts: 263
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Hi All, I did take a look for some related threads but couldn't find anything that really dialed into to what I am asking about, here we go:
- heading to BC in 2 weeks with a girlfriend who does know how to climb, but has been out of the game for a long time now. We'll have access to Sqaumish so wanted to get some advice so I can spend quality time on good routes as opposed to climbing the lowest hanging fruit. Here we go:
Day 1) standard sport and trad cragging - gotta keep it on the moderate side, looking for the go-to crag for standard single pitch route climbing - trad or sport (both would be excellent)
Day 2) Multi-pitch (sport if that exists) - looking for a nice first multi pitch to bring my girl up - I have some multi pitch experience but since I'll be leading the whole thing, looking for something in the 5.8/5.9 sport range. The goal is I want to inspire my girl to climb as opposed to freaking her out.
Day 3) since I'm asking your advice, lets open the floor to hear your must-see, must-do climbs in Squamish....the third day is reseved for anything out of the ordinary that might be worth climbing.
I plan to buy a guide book but your experience and advice would be most welcome! Let me know what you think.
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tessien
Jul 15, 2013, 4:38 PM
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Registered: Jul 26, 2011
Posts: 12
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There aren't a whole ton of mixed crags in Squamish, Chek is a good place to be for sport, Smoke Bluffs has lots of trad routes, but you'll be battling top ropers.
Star Chek is a popular 5.9 3 pitch sport route, it's pretty cool.
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Parkerkat
Jul 15, 2013, 5:03 PM
Post #3 of 5
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Registered: Nov 6, 2008
Posts: 263
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Thank you very much Tessien! Star Check does sound like exactly what I am looking for! I'll start my research there and learn about Chek as a crag to see if its somewhere I'd spend more time at.
I'll be climbing on weekdays so hoping it won't be super busy but then again, Its not my turf so I'm not sure what it will be like on weekdays vs. weekends.
Thanks for helping me get my bearings.
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bearbreeder
Jul 15, 2013, 6:01 PM
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Registered: Feb 2, 2009
Posts: 1960
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My advice?
Forget about the sport ... While its decently good in squish, its not what people go there for
Day 1 .... Go to the bluffs, tons of classic climbs ... Warm up on cat crack, laughing crack, and the easy climbs at neat and cool ... Do pixies corner and the moderate stuff there ... Do quarryman and penny lane ... Then do the 2 pitch mosquito and flemish dance ... Do flying circus for the best soft 10a crack in squamish
Day 2 .. multi ... Go to do kalahanie crack, cardhu crack, an then do skywalker ... Go do an easy apron run like calculus or rambles + deidre
Day 3 ... Climb the chief ... 12-14 linked pitches with a 70m ... Take an apron route up and do the butt face ... The topo is in sonnie trotters blog ... If u can do the previous 2 days this wont be a problem ... Bring 2-3 litres of water
A double rack will keep u vey safe on all these climbs
U come here for REAL crack ... Not for sport weenism
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dugl33
Jul 15, 2013, 6:22 PM
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Registered: Oct 6, 2009
Posts: 740
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If you're feeling comfortable with the trad cragging check out "Dierdre" for fun multipitch trad. I think many if not all of the belays are bolted, and the pro favors the small side - i.e. 2" and smaller.
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